75w-90 on Diffs and Transfer Case

there was a time amsoil…….mobil1.....golden spectro…...redline were the few if only games in town

there were some 'esters '

parafins

blends

& now natural gas bases

mobil1 is No worse...…………………………………...there ARE simply Newer sources available


ive Used all 3 original types

I prefer esters from endurance racing perspectives

Hot Rod mag provides/issues amsoil for there engine shoot outs...……………………………………= level playin field

in previous lab test most synths are close...………...few wide gaps YET

across the board a clear advantage over previous straight dino oils

 

Not true, Mobil1 went to shit after they lost the big complaint filed with the NAD. Before that, they were a group 4 base stock, after, they went the way of the masses using a group 3 base.

They traded quality for more profit. That's when I changed to Redline/Amsoil.

Most group 3 oils have improved over the last 20 years, but I've only found one that performs close to a group 4/5. That would be Pennzoil Ultra Platinum(imo).

For $5. a quart, there's nothing better than PUP. That's what I run in my engine. For the rest of the truck(excluding the trans), it's Amsoil or Redline.

For now I still use WS in the trans, with a 3 quart D&F every year.

 

This is a forum of opinions, that's how the statement can be made. If your looking for 100% fact, you should get off the internet.

I post what works for me. 47 years of driving, 50 years of wrenchin, and 27 years as an industrial mechanic. That's what I base my Statements/Opinions on.

 

never said there are NO better choices

knowing what U know U made a change...…………………...

yet oil samples provided by any manufacturer must meet certain standards

maybe Not up to Ur expectations ( U are using 3 diff brands )

 

I want to see the specs for service in a country like Africa and other 3rd world countries. where EPA crap and environmental regulations don't need to be followed. then we will find out what needs to be done rather than sheep manipulation.

 

' sheep manipulation ' = marketing

there are PRACTICAL 4WD Applications that are functional that are NOT like the stuff U see at Sonics Friday nite

 

Have not found a single brand that does everything well. Money always plays a factor in what I use. I like Redline, but find Amsoli is less money, and seems to work well.

Amsoil does not make a Transfer case oil(for the 3rd gen), but Redline does.

Amsoil's Power steering fluid is not rated for Dexron II/III, but Redline is.

I won't spend $75. twice per year on oil for an engine oil change, but $30. for PUP is fine.

There are reasons for my oil madness!

 

I won’t let you off that easy...you didn’t just say, hey I don’t like Mobile1, I like this other stuff better because that’s just my opinion, man. You were very specific about M1 going to shit, as you said, after they went after Castrol and lost.

The allegation is that M1, having failed to hold Castrol to their desired standard, decided if you can’t beat em join em, and altered their formula to a Class III base rather than a Class IV. From there it gets too technical for me to follow. And there doesn’t seem to be a lot of hard data to inform whether M1 really did change to a Class III base.

I’m legitimately interested in what informs people’s opinions, because if there’s good underlying information to support it, then I may change mine. So I’d like to hear what you’ve observed that’s led you to your opinion.

TW certainly isn’t just a forum of opinions — it’s often much more useful (and factual/technical) than that.

 

EVERYTHING UV just said I already know

iv suggested redline many times b4

amsoil consistently aquits itself in laboratory test...……………...better than most

iv raced on parafins & esters yet I prefer esters

I can state iv Not tried the new ' natural gas '

given time something new will appear or get shuffled back with all the new ' E ' voltage

1 BIG difference

I always buy the BE$T !!…………………………………… that does NOT equate to the most expen$ive

might co$t more short term yet long run u$ually win$ out !!!

 

Decades of Engine tear downs, UOA's and time on forums like bitog.

Like I said, this works for me. You do what works for you. The reason I stated Mobil1 is Sh*t, is because they became like all of the others that spend money on oil R&D

and about 5 times more on advertising(a form of brain washing), and the color of their jugs.

I know Pennzoil does this as well, but I find they really got something good with the Natural gas base stock. It's really made a noticeable improvement in my 3.5.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis/

 

For those of you that answered my question thank you.

 

I miss PUP/PP $10-$15 rebates. Now they have them from obscure farm stores not near anyone or ones for auto parts stores that make it more expensive than wallyworld. Great oil which was even better with the rebates.

 

I will run 75w90 in different because the diff fluid specs a GL5 package.
My biggest question is are there any yellow metal components in the transfer case that will be harmed by a GL5 additive package? I know for sure you need a GL4 in the manual transmission, but what about the transfer case? There's no info available on that except Toyota says we must use that $100 per qt 75wt.

 

Go Amazon for Redline 70/75w gear oil, cost around $45

 

There are more brass components in the 3rd gen TC compared to 2nd Gen. Any long term damage you could/would cause by running gl5 is not known. Some additional info on that: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diff-fluid-change.829253/page-6#post-29751269

If you want to be on the safe side, use a gl4 like Ravenol or RedLine for much less than OEM unicorn tears.

 

There should be a simple 2H to 4H synchro, I’m not aware of anything else. 2nd gen would have the same because it also needs the synchro. Maybe a triple cone design vs a single or something but still, not much of a change if that’s all it is.

I do run GL4 to be on the safe side. But not 75W.

 

Good quality synthetic GL5s are less corrosive than the worst case GL5. There was a PDF somewhere with copper strip corrosion test results for a bunch of gear oils. Most of them looked fine except the conventional Lucas.

Edit: maybe it was this. All but a few of the GL5s perform similar to GL4. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/copper-strip-tarnish-test-10-gear-trans-fluids.171491/

 

Listen here homeskittle, I too struggled with this exact same question for a while. I wanted to change my transfer case oil but the dealers I went to didn’t have any in stock. After searching forums and getting a mixed bag of answers like “run 75-90” and “anything except OEM fluid will make your transfer case explode” and everything in between I finally went to a Toyota dealer and asked again for the oil “oh we don’t have any in stock” so I said “ok well let’s say I want you to service my transfer case today, what would you do?” To which techs replied “just use 75-90” and so sure enough that’s what I did. No issues over tens of thousands of Kilometers doing a lot of highway and off road, and mountain passes.

one thing though, I run amsoil 75-90 GL4 instead of GL5 in the transfer case. Reason being is that there are brass pieces in the transfer case that GL5 gear oil will corrode, but GL4 gear oil is made to protect. So make sure whatever gear oil you put in your transfer case isn’t corrosive to brass.