Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

How do you expect to properly cycle when the leaf pack isn’t even on the axle. If you want to truly cycle it break the pack down and cycle it with a single leaf.

 

This is at full droop so towards bump it only gets worse, and I think I got the wrong top cap then cause mine wouldn't even go in the tower until I trimmed the side. I might gain 2" of up travel but Im pretty sure ill be hitting shock body on springs and axle tube. not trying to argue or say you are wrong, I have just been measuring for 3 days in CAD and with card board mock ups making at least 20 different shock mounts to try and make everything clear and I can't figure it out, welded loop or not. To me my only option is to cut the shock mounts off and raise the upper shock mount 5-6" and then I can put lower dead middle on the side of the axle. also that way I'm not putting the bypass too far out towards the brakes and hitting the tire.

 

I did this as well the picture was to just show that even if the axle was that far away it would still not clear as well as the upper shock mount was rubbing the dust cap for the reservior.

Edit: I had to cycle it to find where to put bump pad anyways.

 

Longer lower shock tabs to push the mount further from the axle? You just don’t want the shocks going past vertical at full droop. I mean something isn’t right and it’s hard to get the full scoop from the pictures you posted. Cycling without leafs also allows the pinion angle to change from where it would be in reality. That’s the only other thing I can think of.

 

Yeah I’m gonna just have to take every thing apart and keep cycling. The problem is the mount has to be lower off the axle and more towards the cab so it can clear everything. And then it’s kinda hard to keep strength in mind because the shock has so much leverage on a skinny mount that barley fits in there. And still risk the same problem of hitting the shock body on the springs.

 

Post up a bunch of pics when you cycle things again with the leafs. I still don’t see how the shock body is going to hit the leafs even with the frame notch. Again unless there’s something really weird going on that I’m not picturing

Edit: stealing the pic Harry posted. You say your lower mounts are very low. Why? Why would you need them to be much lower than this? Even if you drop them 1.5-2” lower than this for the frame notch you shouldn’t be hitting shock body on the leafs

 

Talked to Harry on the phone and I am pretty sure King messed up my shock order when it came to rubbing the upper shock mounts. And I’ll get as many pics as possible. I’m not use to messing around with pivots and such or the rear hanger. And I don’t know anything about the motion ratio on these shock mounts. So I don’t mean to say it’s not possible but I’m just not seeing how to figure it out at the moment. Thank you for the help!

 

Awesome. Hopefully it’s as easy as a bad order. But yeah, just trying to help if at all possible. I think I’ve done 8 shock relocations now between myself and other trucks. No where near as much of an expert as Harry especially on his own products. But I like to think I have valuable insight from time to time

 

Trust me it’s appreciated, if I have learned anything in life it’s that you should listen to people wether you use it or not or wether they are an expert or just heard a rumor about it from there 3rd cousin lol. Instead of being arrogant and never learning anything in life.

For example someone was telling me about how they use to work in a paint factory and was talking about different chemicals reacting to different things and low and behold I was able to use that info months later when I least expected it.

 

Hello, FBI? Yes, this man right here.

 

Lol it was a chemical that would remove clear coat but not the base coat. And we were able to use it to get crap off of a transit van floor. (I detail cars)

 

Pretty much how Breaking Bad started…

 

I also disagree. Why is everyone concerned where or what we do to our trucks? There is a right and wrong way to do everything. Not everybody is doing the same thing. I just happen to have just bought wheels and i already have a dual shock set up. I would rather give my money to someone that i appreciate their talent and thought, but i don’t have the time or money to buy and wait for new shocks and wheels. But i need new lca’s. I would love to give all my money to jd but that doesn’t help my daily driver need to finish. Supply chains are stressed. Its not a big deal, other people make stock length lca’s. I love what @81Trekker has done and giving him my money is the best way i know how to show appreciation. Sorry if that bothers some of you.

 

Alright, I’m pretty much set on doing the 2.25” up front. However the rear of this thing still has me hanging knowing there is a whole lot more to be had.

Currently the rear setup is Deaver U402’s with the archive hammer hangers and shock relocate with 2.5x14 smoothies. The truck has a fair amount of rake with this setup and leaves the rear light with no load.

Here’s the catch. 1/2 the year I have very little load in the rear. The other half of the year I am carrying up to 500lbs in the bed. How will a SUA do with varying loads? Will I always be on the bumps loaded up?

Obviously, SUA will hinder my deep snow driving. But how much? I know I’m expecting the best of many worlds, but getting this rear end dialed has been my nemesis since day 1.

 

you are approaching the fork in the road that all of us face at some point. Gonna have to pick a lane to continue your journey. Trying to make the truck do too much of everything means it won't be really good at any of it. Doesn't mean it can't happen, but just be realistic about how it'll perform when its trying to be a dump truck and a snowmobile with the same setup.

Get a full size for hauling all the bulk rate groceries from the big box store. With a full size there's the added bonus for only needing a trailer to complete self-sufficiency puzzle when it's time to tow the snow runner home.

 

Any time I reach a fork in the road, I take it.

 

The taco is my hunting truck, the load is my dog box and 6 50lb dogs. A full size would be absolutely terrible to use for this purpose as we have a ton of tight roads and trails I absolutely need to use.

 

There ya go. My back seat is gone and has dog crates. Spoiled bastards ride in comfort.

 

Honestly, the main question is simply how well will SUA handle some weight. I do pull a snowmobile with us when the going gets tough so its not like the truck absolutely needs to be used in super deep snow. Im just lazy and prefer a warm cab.

 

With the right pack the sua can handle the weight just fine. And it won’t hinder your snow wheeling at all. Last winter I had to plow through 3-4 feet of fresh snow to go recover someone that had gotten stuck and needed help. Air down, big tires and locker