Any woodworkers?

This was the last find of pallets I took apart for the wood, all 5/4" maple, some soft, some hard, and some curly.

This is a very curly board.

Yes you have to pull some nails to get the free wood.

Here's the finished goods, all maple,various widths.
Stabbed em with a moisture meter and the read 13.4% best you'll get air dried here is 12% so these are pretty good. I'm using them in my outfeed table project.

This is a pallet breaker tool I made. Pops em right apart without damaging the wood. Even spiral ardox nails are no problem with this tool.

 

Man, pallets in my neck of the woods absolutely do not look like that! Wood so ugly I wouldn't want it anywhere near my table saw.

So instagram links have the whole lot of pics on this japanese style bed, loosely based on a wood whisperer design.

https://www.instagram.com/p/By6ByRNge08

https://i.imgur.com/1rxLwLO.jpg



All of the corner attachments are tusked tenons. No glue or nails, just a little tappy tap on the hammer and these connected like concrete. Might be too firm, @acupunk has kids running around! This was a really fun build.

 

If I could find pallets like these, I'd buy one of these

$60 Air Locker AP700 Heavy Duty Professional Air Punch Nailer / Nail Remover / Nail Puller. 1/4" NPT Thread Air Inlet. 80-120 PSI Pneumatic Nailer Removes 10-20 Gauge Nails , Black

https://www.amazon.com/Air-locker-professional-Nailer-Remover/dp/B003X2QM3G and start selling the wood

 

I just cut my pallets apart with a sawzall and left the nail heads so it would look like they were what was holding the wood to the wall instead of the pin nails.

 

https://youtu.be/PHGtMJ251-Q

You should watch this.

 

That really nice work!!

 

Picked up a new to me band saw.

I also insulated the crap out of my tiny shop. Thank for the recommendation to do that.

pardon the mess. Working on building some selves.

 

Dug some more maple pallet wood out of the garage and carried it down to the basement shop. I need some more material for the legs of my table but didn't have any more walnut that I wanted to sacrifice, but I have maple!

These boards have some defects that I'll cut around but I think I can get what I need out of them. The defects will go to the backyard fire pit.

Fresh cut in the middle reads 13.5%, I like 12% Around my neck of the woods but this will work fine.

I got the 4 boards I needed out of them. Next I'll run them through the jointer and planner to square and dimension them.

 

Just saw this post and, regardless of age, I want to pour a little out for our fallen homie Sears.... you will be missed. Now excuse me as I start a blockbuster thread...

 

I need some advice on bandsaw blades. I’ve got small stock that I need to cut down to 1/4”-1/8” thicknesses. The stock is mainly stabilized hardwoods. What do you guys recommend for blade width, tpi, ect

 

Hey maybe I should float this one by you guys -

I got an interesting request for a job. 3 feet of a stair railing, needs to be custom fabricated to match. So I need to laminate up some pine, shape it slightly oversized, go on site and match it up, then bring it back to my shop for stain and finish. Finally, show up and install. Typically I build furniture, I'm guessing 4 hours total in shop on the fab (I don't have a shaper so its gonna be rough out with bandsaw/finish with hand planes and sand), 2 more of the site visits and 1 to stain and finish. Does that sound unreasonable? People are always surprised what one - off jobs cost. I have a bad habit of undercharging and shooting myself in the foot, second opinions are always good.

 

So you're resawing it into veneer-ish thicknesses? Low TPI for that, I have a 1" blade I use. Might be 1&1/4", came with my bandsaw. But some guys like them thinner to do the same.

 

Yes. Resawing to a veneer-ish thickness.

 

I dont go for those carbon toothed bandsaw blades. But for resawing the lower TPI the better. That's some gorgeous wood there by the way!

 

Re pallet wood...

I've dealt with pallets for the past 36 years. The wood they're made from varies widely. I've seen some that looked as if they were made of balsa, and some that looked like mahogany. What you have to worry about is what treatment method -- if any -- was used. I mostly see them either stamped HT (heat treated) or not stamped at all, but then again who know what was shipped on them and what environments they may have been in. I've seen other stamps too.

 

That's my main concern. I have no desire to aerosolize any of that mystery wood and who knows what contaminants. Make's me a stick in the mud, I know. I would rather overpay for it at the lumber store.

 

Excellent points.

The vast majority of the one's I used had boxes strapped to them - paper towels, toilet paper, etc.

One of the pallets that was set aside for me for my wall had a ring of white residue on it. I turned that one down.

 

All the pallets I salvage have had nothing more than steel on them. Ht just means they have been heat treated to kill bugs.

 

Don't forget about travel time! It all depends if you want to give them the 'go away' price or the job really interests you. All in all ya, you're 7hrs into the job in time, but I guarantee it's two full days work, where you're not able to work on other things. Depending on your shop setup too, the finishing time can be an hour of work but 1-2 days of 'no dust/no $$' time as it cures.