Securikey System

While replacing the radio and remote mic for it, something happened to my old remote system.

Yes, I removed the remote microphone wire a little forcefully that ran in the area of Drivers side kick panel.

It has always worked perfectly, but now it locks and unlocks the doors constantly. I can't lock the doors with the switch on the doors or unlock or lock with the key fob. Any ideas what may be going on?

This is the Securikey system installed by Gulf States here in Texas back in the day.

2000 Tacoma Prerunner.

Thanks.

 

From what, where? I don't see anything, but that doesn't mean anything either.

 

The “brain” for the Securikey system is a black box just above the D/S kick panel. There is a wire harness plugged into the side. You should be able to unplug and disengage the entire Securikey system. Note - your remote will no longer work.

 

This is not fully correct. Yes that will disable the system, but there is a wire spliced to give the secondary unlock functionality to the passenger door (2nd unlock press unlocks passenger door).

See the attached installation instructions. My truck actually had a wiring connector which I had to depin for the driver door lock, but they didn't actually cut that wire.

 

Thank you both for the information and file as well. I will see what I can interpret. I am wondering if I might have damaged a wire that makes my locks (both) go into a lock and unlock frenzy, or if the brain has just gone nuts.

Thanks again.

 

My guess is a short was created. Most susceptible candidate to me is the Securikey harness. When mine is unplugged, I have no remote lock functionality. Good luck!

 

I think you are right. Would you know what the part numbers would be for the unlock relays or whatever they are called?

 

Again, guessing here. But I would think no parts need changing. Just a raw wire(s) arcing causing the locks to cycle. One question, was the Securikey system working properly before you removed the radio? You said it “always worked perfectly” but I am unsure if you meant remote locks or the entire alarm. When the alarm is set off, it blasts the horn continuously. Possible that alarm was set off and this was result through shorting, faulty controller or incorrect wiring…

 

It has always worked perfectly until I changed the radio and removed a camera wire and microphone wire that ran in the kick panel.

I cut the module loose earlier and moved the wiring harness around and it is working again with the excepting the alarm will not lock the doors.

Also, the fob will not lock the doors either. The alarm arms after 30 second delay as it should but no lock. I can unlock with the fob, so I guess I need to figure out which wire I damaged.

 

There are most likely t-tap splices connecting the harness to your stock wires. Over time these lose good connection and can be wiggled loose. That’s why wiggling it around fixed it. That proves you have a loose connection somewhere. You’ll need to find all of those connections and redo them unfortunately.

 

I think these are the wires I need to locate and check in the kick panel.

Door Trigger Green/White (-)

Door Lock Red/White (-)

Door Unlock Red/Yellow (-)

 

There are many wire taps up behind the dash near the back of the fuse panel. Easiest way to see them is to awkwardly lay on your back through the driver door and stick your head up there.

 

Thanks that's a fantastic resource. I wasn't able to find this on my own searching around.