Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Oooooo share pictures when you're done of the hangers as well as the rear bumper please

 

A lot of the high clearance bumpers do come with bed side supports. Typically a simple L bracket of of the bed shell where one of the OE brackets currently reside.

edit - with your 35’s at full stuff they tuck up so high that a full liner is pretty tough to do. I share your concerns about the bed because i have a camper shell too. If you put some sealant around all of the cubbies you’ll be good. There is a guy on tw that 3d prints plastic covers for the cubby hinge slots too. Sorry I don’t have a link for them.

 

Don’t know if you can tell much from this, but I cut the factory one at an angle long since forgotten and left a tab when cutting the fenders to bolt it to and bolted the other side into the bed edge.

 

Ok cool. Yeah I figured I could probably just repurpose the factory bed supports.. or make some real quick at work. I'll use the factory mounting points then tie it into the bumper.

That was going to be my backup plan. Just seal all the cubbies and under the bed rails as much as I can.. and live with it. We're in AZ so we're pretty used to the dust. All our gear is setup to deal with it.. but we're going from the exposed bed setup to a wedge style camper. I know there will be some intrusion.. I'm not looking for 100% Sealed. And we'll still have our stuff in totes, etc.

I think I've seen those plugs actually. I'll print my own if needed.

 

Got about 95% done, in total it will be strapped at 17”. I cycled 18.5” without the shock and we’ll you can see the limiting factor for me is the shock.

I think I pretty much got what I wanted, 10” of up travel with a low ride height. And I got that, but sacrificed down travel. With a different shock package and longer shackle would put me more in the 19”/20” area but I’d be sitting taller and I’m pretty sure drive shaft limits play in there. A little worried about the leafs going negative quite a bit but I’ll work all that out as I go.

I cut the holes either too big or too small in some areas and not too happy on how it turned out so I’ll either make an aluminum shroud almost, that will fill the gap on inside and out or I’ll kydex over the towers from the inside of the bed.



edit: forgot to mention I left about 3/8” shaft left at full bump. The axle will hit notch before the shock starts hitting the rubber stoppers.

 

Alright, so I’m pretty set on doing the SUA. But I do have some basic questions. First off, I am currently running 2.5x14’s with my archive deaver setup.

Considering I will be off and on carrying up to 500lbs would I be better off staying with a smoothie and use my adjusters to compensate for the weight, or would bypasses be ok in this situation? I have next to no experience with bypasses, so forgive me if it’s a stupid question.

Second, since the rear shackle mount has two settings on it could one theoretically have it at the top setting for unloaded use then move it down for the period of time I will be carrying weight? I know it won’t really increase the capabilities for carrying a load, however I could see it helping with squat.

Really just trying to know and understand entirely what I am getting into before I pull the trigger.

thank you!

 

Your best bet is to just tell Harry what you are trying to accomplish and trust him to steer you in the best direction. External compression adjuster vs by-passes. By- passes are basically setting up adjustments for different zones within the stroke of the shock. The external adjusters such as a Fox DSC would be each adjuster would effect the shocks thru there entire stroke. One thing to be aware of most will say by-passes are very loud and become annoying for a daily driver.

 

I know I’ve gotta talk to them, but it is extremely hard when my work schedule doesn’t really allow me to call during business hours. Just trying to gather as much info as I can on here. I understand if nobody can answer the questions I am asking.

I do understand how a bypass works, I’m just not sure it is right for my application because you really can’t adjust them as easy as a smoothie.

right now I have my rear shocks valved to the point that when I’m empty they basically aren’t turned in more than a few clicks. When I’m loaded I do crank them up significantly and it does help tremendously.

basically, I’m entirely sick and tired of my 4” of up travel and heavy rake. The rear of the truck just doesn’t always feel planted and I feel it’s due to the rake. But obviously, if I lower it I lose bump travel and ride quality.

 

Just msg him on here or email. He's been quick to respond to my questions.

 

Personally I’d steer clear of bypass shocks, they are too for me on a daily driver. The standard compression adjusters that come on King shocks are pretty much worthless IMO, the range of adjustment is very limited. If you want a huge range of adjustment with no noise the go with the free bleeds.

As for the shackles the have a high and low setting as well as 3 positions to move them forward or back. The rear shackle hanger adjustments will play into the ride height so you can fine tune the ride height based on weight.

 

Well got the truck on the ground yesterday. No bumps or straps since I’m still waiting on bypasses. Bled the brakes, filled up the power steering. She started up like like nothing happened. I was surprised since I didn’t leave the battery on a tender back in December.

Eyeball alignment is definitely off for toe. The truck felt so solid and actually drove rather straight. Steering felt solid too. It didn’t feel as sloppy as the oem stuff.

 

Going to be pulling my box off soon to do some maintenance stuff, while its off is it worth it to box the frame? Havent seen any talk about boxing, but with the bed off that would be the time.

 

@Evenflow has some good insight on this and what we need to do to his truck

 

Plenty of conversations about boxing the frame to be found in many different threads. Consensus being if you have the time and ability, can it hurt? Reinforcing the structural integrity of the foundation of the rest of your build sounds like a win to me no matter what.

 

I mainly question it, because at the end of the day if you box the back half the middle is still C channel. So without boxing it all the way, are you really doing anything? Main reason i ask is because I can watch my box twerk pretty good on chatter.

 

This is spot on, if you box the rear it’s only going to make the middle worse, a lot worse

 

So basically if you wanna solve frame flex, either box the whole thing or cage the truck. This was kinda my line of thinking and why I didnt just jump into boxing. I had a feeling it may cause other issues.

 

Still just waiting on a rolling tube frame from jd fab that I can just put my cab on

 

I'm sure one will show up on the website any day now...

 

He quoted 6 or 7 bitcoiin a few pages back.