Passenger window intermittent failure

2018 Tacoma access cab 18k miles. I open my windows to back up a trailer. Go to pull up both switches and only the drivers side window closes. Window lock out switch is not activated. Tried both switch on the drivers and passenger door neither do anything. Then I open the drivers door, walk around back to unhook the trailer and then try again the passenger window rolls up just fine off my driver side master switch. This is the second time it's happened, although last time it fixed itself by restarting the truck.

My trailer wiring is stand alone and the only connection to the car is the battery and the left tail light.

Does anybody else have a similar issue or is there a TSB for this? I'm thinking it's either a bad ground or the lock out switch is bad, but even with the lock out engaged wouldn't the master switch still control both windows?

 

How hot is it outside? The motors could be overheated and be on an automatic cool down lockout

 

About 99 degrees ambient today. When I was hooking up my trailer it opened fine but closing it was slower than usual. I have the AC on, I drive about 15 minutes, open it again to back up the trailer, then go to close the window and nothing. I'm not counting out the theory of it overheating, but after it started working it works fine again. I was only behind the truck for 30 seconds and the window was only rolled up once before it failed.

 

Happened again. Master switch is bad. Went to close the window and hear the lever pop but nothing happens. Toyota says they won’t replace under warranty because they cannot replicate.

$350 for a new switch smh

 

Next time it happens, get video. You are still in warranty and they need to make it right.

 

Yeah, don't ever trust a dealer diag

 

https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-window-switch-8482004100?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9aW50ZXJpb3ItdHJpbS1mcm9udC1kb29yJmw9Mzkmbj1Bc3NlbWJsaWVzIFBhZ2UmYT10b3lvdGEmbz10YWNvbWEmeT0yMDE4JnQ9c3ImZT0yLTdsLWw0LWdhcw==

That should be the right part if you want to DIY it. Double check before you order anything if you go that way, in my brief search I may not have picked the correct switch.

I'd also recommend calling corporate to get them involved.

 

I pulled the switch apart down to the circuit board. Found a used take off switch for $150 which seems more reasonable. I see nothing wrong with it physically. No signs of water damage either.

My conclusion is that either the clicker switch is malfunctioning(built into circuit board) or the board is shorting out when both driver and passenger switches are pulled up.

I'm going to try another Toyota dealer with my peeling door panel and switch. Sucks when the damn dealer that sells you the Tacoma refuses to do warranty work. It doesn't cost them a dime and they already made $6000 off of my trade in/purchase.