Ride Quality or Fact of Life? -- 2" OME Lift with 33" KO2's

I am trying to determine if I actually have a ride quality issue, or if the type of vibrations I feel (particularly at highway speeds) is a fact of life for my build.

Essentially, when I am at higher speeds, I experience vibrations in the seat and steering wheel that feel a little more drastic than my 285/75/16 KO2’s rolling over the road. It feels less akin to road feedback, and more like a slight fluttering. I can see my phone on the windshield mounted Ram Mount consistently shake ever so slightly, I feel my butt bouncing ever so slightly, and my hand on the steering wheel feels a very slight back and forth movement. I don’t think it’s an alignment issue, because I’ve had this in the past and this isn’t as drastic. I do wheel some, and I am wondering if I may have done something minor I am unaware of?

From previous research it sounds like it could be: (a) wheel(s) out of balance; (b) an alignment issue; (c) the fact my rear springs are OE and sit on 2” blocks whereas the rest of the suspension is OME; or (d) something I have no idea about.

Here are the details on my 2005 OR Build that may be helpful:

· 285/75/16 KO2’s (E-rated) running at 32 psi when cold (with an alignment 6k miles ago)

· Front Struts/Springs: Old Man Emu 2” Lift (I believe nitrocharger – can’t remember)

· Rear Shocks: Old Man Emu for a 2” lift

· Leaf Springs: OE, replaced by previous owner via Toyota recall due to rust about 25k miles ago. They are sitting on 2” Skyjacker spacers installed by previous owner (these were on the front OE struts but removed when the OME install). I left this untouched because the rear springs were still in great condition and I wasn’t changing the ride height (perhaps a bad decision?)

· Aftermarket UCA’s with Moog Upper Ball Joints (fabricated by Rocky Road Outfitters)

· Polyurethane LCA and Sway Bar Bushings

· Moog tie rod ends

Any helpful information is greatly appreciated! I know the Tacoma won’t ride like a Lexus, but my gut tells me there is something that can be done?

Thanks!

 

KO2s have a reputation for being difficult to balance, and what you're describing sounds like a typical tire balance issue to me. See if a local tire shop can do a Road Force balance on them.

 

Same thing when going from stock size tire to 265/70/17 Wildpeaks. Did it on my stock suspension and it does it on my new 5100s too. Tires are dealer road force balanced and alignment is perfect.
Some stretches of highway the truck is smooth as glass and others I feel the tiny hop sensation. It did it on with my old Cooper tires but I deff feel it a bit more with the wildpeaks.

I honestly think that these trucks are SUPER sensitive to imperfections in the road. Some people are sensitive to it and some people don't feel it. I have also felt this in a brand new 3rd gen loaner I had a few months ago. My 2019 silverado was also the same way but I feel it more in my tacoma.

Next time you are next to a car or truck on the highway look at their wheels closely. You will see the tire and wheels following the contour of the highway. Every so slightly bouncing up and down. 90% of cars suspension can compensate for this so you don't feel the road but you DO feel it in a tacoma.

Hundreds of threads on balancing issues with tacomas and 4 runners. Adding bigger All terrain tires just magnifies the imperfections in the road.

 

this wouldn't be a needle bearing issue would it? There is a ton of info on here about the ecgs/needle bearing swap and what was going on before/after with peoples trucks and how to narrow down if it's your issue. just my .02, maybe worth a look.

 

Dye22 -- I read that diagnosing the needle bearing issue is to drive in 4hi to see if the vibrations continue? If they do not, then it is likely a needle bearing requiring the ECGS swap?

 

Needle bearing is more of a on and off buzzing that is felt in the floorboard. You can hear it too.

 

You've got your work cut out for you finding the issue, but there is a lot of good help on this forum.
From your description it sounds like tires or drivetrain to me, as long as everything you replaced has been torqued to spec.
For the tires you could road force balance by a qualified shop/tech (they don't all know what they are doing when they say they do), rotate the tires to check for a difference, chalk test to find the correct psi, get new replacement tires under warranty, or try Dynabeads instead of wheel weights.
For the drive line you may need to shim the rear axle and/or carrier bearing to correct your pinion angle, or you may have bad u-joints or carrier bearing.
Good luck.

 

yea you got it. it's a worthwhile upgrade regardless of whether or not it's your issue but it sounds like it probably isn't your problem. just thought i'd throw it out there just incase.

 

This. Start with road force balancing before anything else.

 

Stock wheels or aftermarket? IF aftermarket, are they hub centric? If so, do they locate properly or do they have ring spacers?

 

Duly noted! I'll start here and see where it takes me! This is all real helpful.

I haven't seen any comments concerning my stock leaf springs on spacers -- I bring this up because from previous research I've heard spacers kill ride quality.

 

They are aftermarket TRD wheels with a 10mm offset. I have 1.25" spacers to account for rubbing on my UCA's. Not sure if they are hub-centric. Here's the link to them: https://toyotaparts.lakelandtoyota....le-alloy-wheel-ptr1835090gr?c=az0x&origin=pla

 

1.) have you done a ecgs front differential bushing?
2.) Does the truck have a carrier bearing drop?
3.) Are your wheel spacers hub centric?
4.) Does the vibration go away without the wheel spacers?

 

Rear blocks doesn't affect ride quality but will increase wear on the leafs along with introducing axle wrap. Ideally, a whole leaf pack replacement would be the best route for rear lift and performance. IMO, removing the rear blocks would be next on my list to address after the vibrations are fixed. Front spacers will definitely kill the ride quality. I'm surprised that you don't encounter any rub running 285s with a 2" lift when offroading. Have you done a cab mount chop?

 

When you have vibrations at highway speeds its usually a tire balancing issue. With all of the AM suspension and such however it could be something else.

 

Hi,

Before you go nuts can I suggest airing down a bit the psi. If you are at 32psi cold you are probably at 33/34 hot. Plus the E rating makes for a hard ride. I suggest the chalk test. I just recently put the same tire on my truck. The first time I hit the highway I thought the wheels were going to come off. I was at PSI of 32 cold, hot was 35. I am at 31.5 front and 31 rear (edit-hot) now with good contact after chalk test and it rides nice, no more vibration and smoot on the highway.


I suggest start there before spending crazy cash on the rest.

 

1) I have not -- but after this thread and reading elsewhere it is high on my list. I don't think this is an issue, but I'm going to do the 4hi test this evening.
2) No -- but will be ordering this soon!
3) I think they're hub centric but not sure. They are spidertrax.
4) Not sure.

 

Good to know -- thanks! I was on a budget when I did the initial lift, but it is definitely time to finish it up and order the OME leaf springs.

And yes, I did do the body mount chop. Helped a ton!

 

This. Had to have a previous set balanced twice. Now however, id probably go with balance beads, and those you can do yourself at home.

 

https://checkeredflagtirebalancebeads.com/tire-charts/#mud