Turbo BS Thread

I'd keep it as is, until it proves necessary. Unless of course the time and funds are best used now.

We also need some decent acceleration video.

 

Never realized this thread was here lol.

 

I posted a 40- (~)75 mph vid on Facebook in the 3GT group a few weeks ago. I think it was a couple seconds faster than what the Tacoma can do stock. Figured that was actually a better vid/demonstration since that's a common speed to be at in a vehicle, and a common range to accelerate within

 

About time! Better leave before we influence you to start tinkering again.

 

But you know TW is better than FB...

 

Lmao. Only 722 pages late to the game. I still have lots of plans for it. Just no time or money hahaha

 

Reminds me of the Custom Tacos days.

 

Ah customtacos. Check out the top left lol.

 

So I must admit. I was lazy and didn't do what I knew that I should have. Came to bite me in the rear recently. Tuned the truck in N/A, then expanded that tuning into F/I. Never moved the wideband sensors from preturbo to post turbo. It worked and couldn't tell there was a problem. Until recently. Started having some weird engine stumbling, and temporary dips into the 9's AFR's, while lightly coasting and idling. At no specific intervals. Ordered some heat sink bungs to weld into the down-pipe. Here is what I found.

This is the passenger Haltech WB. Closest to the turbo.




Next to the driver side Haltech WB.



Didn't have a spare sensor on hand with the same plug, so I cut and spliced. Blasted soldering iron wouldn't cooperate.



www.stainlessbros.com bungs welded in. Truck didn't seem to run any better. Actually, it kept doing the random stumbling. Yesterday, I had the opportunity to do some troubleshooting. Seems the driver side sensor had extinguished its life as well. Just wasn't visible telling.

Disabled that sensor, and truck is running like a champ. Way better than expected. Need to upgrade to the CAN system now, with two new sensors and it will be perfect.

 

i've been having problems with my aem wide band. in a year i've gone through 3 sensors and now seems like a 2nd gauge.

 

Is it the newer style with the LSU 4.9 sensor?

 

yup

 

How far downstream of the turbo are these failed sensors? Never had any issues with my VW o2 and it was about 2’ downstream seeing regular EGTs upwards of 1200*. A few spikes into 1300/1400 territory but my EGT bung was 4” post turbo (2.5->3” DP) on the last iteration and in the hotside housing before (3” DP).

Just curious. Side note, I’m getting serious looking at a VW TDI now. 2004 wagon with a 1.9 BEW. 300,000 mile car soooo…….due for a injector/pump/turbo replacement soon. Dude is not in a rush to sale and I’m still arguing with insurance over getting hit so hopefully he won’t sell in the next couple of weeks.

 

for me they are maybe 20-24" from the turbo. im pretty sure aem recommends a minimum of 18".

 

On an A4, it was within 3"-4" from the turbine outlet.

Just to reiterate, mine were pre-turbo. Getting all of that glorious pressure and heat. That pressure really skews with the sensors though.

Now, they are about a foot away.

 

P0430 returned during my drive to work Lmfao FACK, this bitch.

When I get home work, I'll go over the connections that were affected with the replacement pipe, just to be sure it's not a boost leak somehow throwing off the sensor. After all, the code seemed permanently gone before the replacement. Not likely that an intake leak would cause something though.

Always something to chase down I guess lol

 

Makes me wonder if your hardware keeps coming loose?

Are they aftermarket cats?

 

Yeah, the OVT kit comes with catted/de-catted downpipes (your choice), and I chose catted. I also put in o2 sensor spacers with mini cats for the rear sensors.

I don't hear any exhaust leaks with my stethoscope contraption when I've checked, the connections are tight as hell, I even went to full flange exhaust gaskets for the DP-YP connections instead of Toyota's donut gaskets.

 

Any idea the brand of cats/cell count/cell material?

Is there a flex joint somewhere in the y-pipe then? OEM they typically use a donut gasket and spring tension bolts, to allow the post y-pipe portion of the exhaust to flex from the front. Does yours still have this?

 

I tossed the donut gasket because of the code constantly being there.

The downpipe has 200 cel count cats (obviously low, "high flow), and a section of flex joint on it. Idk anything beyond that.

I've got the flanges of the DP and YP sandwiched together firmly on both sides.

0430 code should be driver side since cylinder 2 is #driver side.

Mat stated in the turbo thread at some point that he'll be eventually giving everyone an unlocked version of their map. Wish I had it (and the tune update) so that I can just go in and kill that code and never see it return.