TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

That's basically the way I was doing it. At least chatting with Tom at SOS he was noting the stoptech dissipates heat a bit better than the Wilwood. I picked up the rear BBK stoptech instead of Wilwood and may just swap it. Seems to have way more people set up on stoptech with good results. Also you have a master setup for 4 wheels discs so likely we have a different feeling in general. It was feeling pretty good before but this last bleed it doesn't feel as good and I did it a few times.

I have been running ATE 200. Been using this stuff for years in different cars. I am wondering with the use of the truck if I do not need as high of a performance fluid.

Any of the race boys have a take on higher heat brake fluid? I was considering going with another brand or a lower heat rating as I was curious if it doesn't work as good until it heats up. I do noticed it seems to work better when warm but those panic stops are scary.

 

Our trucks call for DOT 3 brake fluid, which has boiling points of at least 401°F (dry) and 284°F (wet). DOT 4, which has boiling points of at least 446°F (dry) and 311°F (wet), far exceeds that standard. Motul RBF/600 (594°F dry and 401°F wet) and ATE 200 (536°F dry and 388°F wet) are both great choices. FWIW, my fun cars currently get Brembo LCF 600+ (601°F dry and 399°F wet), while the truck gets ATE 200. I'm thinking about switching the fun cars over to Redline RL-600 (604°F dry and 400°F wet), primarily due to availability and cost of the Brembo fluid. In my experience, higher heat rated fluid is advantageous when operating near those outer temperature limits. Until then, they all tend to perform similarly. YMMV.

I found this Brake Fluid Comparison Chart useful when comparing options.

 

Good to know. I'm gonna look into some of those when I do my Wilwoods.

 

I bleed my brakes with truck running. Takes no effort and I haven’t had issues with air so far. Only vehicle I’ve done that with, but it works. You can literally run the reservoir dry in 10 seconds, so do one corner at a time and refill.

 

Dot 4 on all of mine. I'm in the severe category.

 

Since we are on brakes and such……would there be any benefit of adding a Wilwood master cylinder to our application?

 

no need when there is the tundra master, unless you just want the bling.

 

Same here on the russell speed bleeders. Even with the speed bleeders I was monitoring and my brother was pumping until clear, held the pedal and I closed it. I would try the bleed again but understand how tedious it can be. And after you run thru a couple quarts of ATE = $$

I'd probably blame the rotors for that. I've seen a lot of Wilwood on offroad race trucks but not so much Stoptech TBH. I wonder if price is the reason why but most of the street trucks run Stoptech. The reason why it's negligible when they're out in the dirt, if they can't drive worth a darn, they probably won't be able to use the potential of either brand brakes.

By the way, do you use any wheel cleaner product? I I stopped using it after one try of the Meguiars product because it cleaned the brake deposits on the rotor. Felt like it ruined the stopping until I started laying down some more pad material.

 

no cleaning products. Im lazy when it comes to doing that stuff nowadays. Usually covered indirect and brake dust mostly.

Yeah I will get around to bleeding them again. Drive the truck to Mexico and back and some mounts recently and it was okay in slow but those panic stops catches up to you.

Good to hear on Dot 4. I was wondering if I just wasn't operating them at a high enough temp and the fluid was not performing to its potential. the ATE200 has been great. used to use it when it was super blue then kept using it on the clearer version. Was thinking about others.

The Wilwood makes sense on many trucks due to their universal formats. You can mount and set up them up almost any way you can think which makes great for a builders brake setup.

Partially I was thinking the Stoptech since they have a solid setup for Tacomas at least. I love the setup we got but I think they half-assed it when the -DS version did not fit so I think they are slightly off. I got some funky brake wear too but def feel like there is air somewhere.

would too much fluid causes funky issues? It looks topped off but I won't rule out anything at this point.

If I do not figured it out ill prob pull it all when I swap out the front suspension coming up here soon and go from there. I may start fresh with new pads, I have new rotors.

 

also, the Baja has a sport master or the electronic one the off-road has? I thought it did. If it does then limit to no options for upgrades.

 

I used to use the ATE super blue stuff on my master cylinder back in the day (like back in 2010-2012). Found out the stuff got banned like 2 or 3 years ago and life hasn't been the same since.

 

I learned something new today.

Please Note: As of late 2013 'Blue' tinted brake fluid is no longer DOT approved or legal for use or sale in the USA.
Sale of ATE Super Blue is discontinued but ATE Type 200 'Gold' color will thankfully continue to be available for all fans of Super Blue.
All orders will be fulfilled with Type 200 "Gold".

Safety Note:
It has been determined that ATE Super Blue does not comply with the applicable US DOT Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard for brake fluid, due purely to blue-tint for the color. The federal standard requires motor vehicle brake fluid to be colorless or amber in color and distribution of super "blue" has been suspended. However, the same Fluid with out the Blue tint continues to be available!
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Ooo... So they have the gold stuff now which is the derivative equal-to. That is good to know! I will be swapping out to that stuff when it is time for me.

 

Cause DA put it in washer fluid also stories of some one drinking it..... I still have 2 unopned bottles of the Blue ATE from my Hot Import days..

 

Indeed! That’s what I have been using. It was a bummer to hear the blue went away it was so nice to use but the gold continues on.

 

A one-upper MC?!

 

Baja has the electronic one. I bought the tundra master cylinder before I reliazed it wouldn't work. Been debating now if I'll even convert the rear to disc now. Have the kit just sitting in a box waiting

 

yah same with me. I have had the rear disc setup for 2 years in a box.. I have talked with a few folks running stock master or the electronic one and all like it. a bit softer pedal but overall they were a go to do it. A few folks on this thread included which got me to make the decision to go all in and do it.

 

Thing is, I've had several incidents in the last year where I had to literally slam on the brakes, and the truck stopped itself sooner than I thought. The abs definitely did its job! And makes me think the front BBK setup is enough. I'll probably end up ordering new drum pads from beefedupbrakes. Com and just paint the drum cover red