Bilstein 5100 Settings for dummies

Awesome thread and super helpful! I'm sure this has been answered but- I have a 2021 TRD sport and am putting 5100's on front and rear. I am going for a leveled look with maybe a tiny rake so there is no carolina lean. Do I need a 1" block in rear?

 

Depends which notch u install the 5100s on. 2nd or 3rd will be okay. 4th ir 5th and it will sit nose high without something done to lift the rear.

 

My son's is on the 5th perch and a 1 in rear block, dead level. Now if there is a 500 pound load, the front end sits higher. I'm on the 4th and a 1 in rear block, very slight rake. Both truck ride amazing.

 

Thank you both for the info! The Bilsteins are ordered, now I wait.. I plan on doing just the shocks with stock Sport wheels and Falken Wildpeak AT3/W's. If I want new wheels as well I'll probably throw a block in the rear.

 

First post here but just want to say thanks to everyone for this great info! I've got a 2019 TRD OR that I run airbags on to help with a 3200 lb camp trailer I haul occasionally. I'm planning to get 5100's all around to replace the stock Billsteins and set the fronts to either the 2nd or 3rd setting to offset the increased rake from the air bags...I gotta run those at about 15 lbs empty to not "bottom out" and that brings the rear up almost another 1". May be awhile but I'll post an update when done.

 

I'm looking for close to level with slight forward rake; minimal lift just enough to make the truck a bit beefier but nothing obscene. I had a 2017 SR Access Cab that I did 5100s front at the 2nd clip (0.6") and I really didn't see much difference from stock appearance-wise; although the front coil-overs felt better under hard braking and were more firm on bumpy roads. After reading this thread, doing some research, and thinking back to trucks with 5100s I've had, I think my particular setup on a 21 SR Access Cab is going to be:

*5100s front at 1.1" lift (3rd clip position) *5100s rear with 0.5" spacers under rear leafs *265/75 16 SL Wildpeaks

I'll update accordingly and with before and after pics in a few weeks / a month once I get everything in and installed.

It's nice to see other peoples pics but those pics are kinda worthless if they don't include the info about what setting the 5100s are at and what the rear height is; and also pictures should really be from the side on flat surfaces. It's hard to vusualize when the pics are of like half a truck, on a hill, flexing...

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Edit, 5100s seem to be out of stock everywhere. I ended up going with Eibachs, stock coils, 2nd clip (front)... Eibachs, 1/2" block (rear)

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Great thread! I’ve read this one and the 6112 thread, and I’m wondering why the 6112 folks run different clip settings (eg 4/3) to account for the lean but you guys seem to prefer a spacer, or just leave it alone all together. Is that just group think in the individual threads, or is there a reason for it? I believe I only noticed one guy running different clip settings here in the 5000 thread.

Thanks, I’d ruled out the 5000’s based on what seems to be bad info, glad I found this thread. Now, can they even be bought anywhere?

Lyle

 

I believe the biggest thing is that 6112's use a new coil, not reuse the OEM coil.

My best understanding of that is the 6112 coils are the same side-to-side, and the OEM coils you would use on the 5100s are actually side specific with the driver's side being slightly heavier to accommodate the inherent sag. To that end I don't think you really need a spacer on top of the driver's assembly, and I personally wouldn't run one strut on a different clip setting than the other either.

 

But we’ve got the lean from the factory…

 

Dis true, for some

 

Had mine on 3 with airbags. Went to 4 and installed Deaver 402 Stage 1. Perfect for my applications. Good thread!

 

Did you remove the airbags when you went to 4 with the Deaver Stage 1?

What are your applications? How much weight do you have added? This sounds close to what I am considering but I was looing at the stage 2 Deaver which is supposed to be for consistent added weight of 400-600 pounds.

 

What trim level is your truck? Just trying to get an idea of your baseline suspension ride quality.

And by rides better than stock, do you mean it's softer or firmer?

 

Yes I removed the airbags in fact there in my garage. Soon to be thrown up on craigslist. I have an RSI smartcap and usually it's just my dogs and some items in the bed. If I go on an expedition I throw some Plano's and my coolers in the back but never to exceed 300 pounds. All my other stuff is in a jeep trailer which I tow behind. It's a military M100 trailer with a roof nest mount it on top.

 

I’ve just read through this whole thread and there’s some great info, thanks.

But I find it amazing that no one has mentioned to anyone to get your headlights adjusted… peeps, please adjust your headlights if you do a level or a lift…

I know it doesn’t affect you (in fact gives you further vision) but it is annoying for everyone else…

 

Actually, if you are lifting and maintain factory rake, the headlights will maintain the same angle relative to the road. If you are leveling, then yeah, that angle changes...

 

Incorrect, if you lift front and back equally then your lights at a 100 yards will be traveling a further distance because of being lifted.

 

Slightly further, yes. A negligible amount and not one which would wreak havoc.

 

I used to be a mechanic back in England and every vehicle has a extremely comprehensive safety check every year (something the USA is lacking). One of those checks is the headlight aim.

I think you would be surprised how much of a difference it can make at 100 yards.

It’s funny how guys with lifts never worry about headlight aim but guys who lower their cars complain about the lack of vision

 

Well those were imperial headlights not Murican headlights!