95 Tacoma AC not working. Replace?

Thank you. The guy at the parts store sold me a 1oz bottle that connects to the ac hose through the cap that I use for pumping the Freon to add the extra oil. Would that work?
I just guessed when tightening the pulley belt. Could that cause a problem?

 

With the TRUCK OFF, spin the outer clutch plate in the correct directions of rotation a dozen full revolutions. This makes sure compressor turns and not locked up by oil. Start engine and try a/c. If it does not work, recheck POWER and GROUND at compressor. I would also highly suggest getting someone to evacuate the system and properly charge the correct amount of Freon.

 

I spun it probably 20 times then tried it out and nothing and I read somewhere that you have to manually jump it to add Freon sometimes so I jumped it and the clutch turned on, after a couple minutes of running the ac I checked the air and it was still warm, I checked the Freon and it read zero while it was on and when I turned it off the Freon went from 47 to around 40 I believe so I added some more and after turning it on and off again it stayed at a steady 47 but every time I read the pressure when the ac is actually running it reads zero. Is that normal?

 

I also noticed it makes a click noise and the rpms go up when I turn the ac on and it does the same thing when I jump it only the clutch also spins.

 

I just wanted to cover all my bases before paying someone to flush the system, could a flush fix this?

 

The best thing you can do is to pay someone to evacuate the system (gets all moisture out) and to charge the system with the proper amount of Freon which is critical. That is the only way you know it is done correctly. I am only guessing this is what you mean by “flushing the system”. The only way to flush the system is by removing components and physically flushing with chemicals. Without the proper Freon amount in the system, your pressures will be affected and ultimately affect power to the compressor. Simply stated, the Low pressure switch- cuts power to compressor if not enough Freon in system creating low pressure. The high pressure switch cuts power to the compressor when a/c pressure gets too high which can be dangerous. There is a small window on how much Freon the system takes that can affect either of these switches. If you don't want to get it done professionally, I suggest to everyone to wear proper protective equipment. Gloves and safety glasses to start with. Liquid freon can burn you with frostbite and blind you if you get it in your eyes. It sounds harsh but accidents happen and charging your a/c with a cheap refill kit is something people take very lightly and don't think of the possible danger.

 

FIRST,
1) so did you check to see if you have power to the AC compressor power line when it AC button is on?
Use a volt meter or a test light power probe.
2) did you measure the air gap?
As the clutch wears down the clutch gap changes and if that gap is too big the magnet will not work.
3) did you take the clutch assembly and pulley off to look closely at the clutch system,
You can do this with the compressor on the truck.

4) if you’re air gap is to big the coil will not work and adding washers or removing washers might be all that’s needed.
Your compressor when off the low side should be at least 100-125 plus
and when the engine is running with the compressor engaged should be 35 or so.
You can check those numbers with a generic AC pro gauge for 20.00 that goes on an AC can just don’t pull the trigger when u test the pressure.

If you remove the compressor you need to replace the dryer.

You need to also have the correct oil amount also.

If you take the old compressor out get a pan and drain ALL the oil out of it,
There might be a drain plug and the input and output line connectors.
Also cycling the compressor to get the oil out

Measure this amount of oil and make up the difference compared to the new compressor.
You can get a gauge set and evacuate compressor from advanced auto as a loaner
For free with a deposit.
THIS IS MY INFO FOR MY AFTERMARKET COMPRESSOR NOT YOURS

Specified torque: 4 ~ 6 N·m {0.4 ~0.6 kgf·m, 3.0 ~ 4.4 lbf·ft}
Install the snap ring (beveled edge up/ outwards toward hub plate) using external snap ring pliers.
Clutch hub air gap: (0.012 ~ 0.028 in)
Hub retaining bolt torque: 12 ~ 14 N·m {1.2 ~ 1.4 kgf·m, 8.7 ~ 10 lbf·ft}

 

I second this. I replaced mine and fixed my A/C issue.

 

What he said! Do you have a license? There is a reason why pros are licensed to work on A/C systems! Legally, you are not allowed to remove components without evacuating the system properly. Take it to a pro.

 

Try and fix it 1st by trouble shooting the smaller parts 1st.

My pro AC guy told me I needed a new compressor and would cost in the 1000 range with a new dryer.

It ended up being the clutch and those parts cost me 50 some dollars and didn't have to even remove the compressor from the truck to fix it.
45 minutes of messing around with it and done
.

 

Good deal. I second what you are saying, however, I meant that if you (or the OP) had to replace the compressor, it's not a DIY job. Or, any part that has to come off that would let the freon out. It has to be evacuated with a machine, and then the system needs to be dried and re-filled. Most of us home mechs don't have that equipment.

 

I replaced the compressor already, I just drove it out to the woods and pressed on the nozzle till it had no more pressure before I swapped it out

 

I’m going to take it to a shop i think that’s my only option at this point. I just don’t have money right now after doing a bunch of projects on my house so I’ll have to wait.

 

Wow, Really? that's a pretty ignorant thing to do. That's sort of like changing your oil and letting the used oil go down the gutter. How are you going to evac the system before refilling?

 

I’m sorry, I didn’t know. I’m just going to take it to a shop at this point.