TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

It says “When the Override Input is activated, the fan/pump will operate at maximum speed.”

So technically it has that feature. But the thing I don’t like is that it’s 100%. That would be fine for a smaller fan. But this hoss is sucking 850w. Imagine sitting at idle with the A/C on and your fan is drawing 70 amps. It would be nice to be able to choose the duty cycle when the override is used.

Autocoolguy says the HF-125 works with brushless fans. But I think Spal has some special sauce in this fan that requires a little different input to get it moving.

 

But damn the a/c would be tits at idle.
I wonder if the wire that controls the ground on the fan is what you use as the signal wire? You may need to look at a different wiring setup to control the fan that what you posted earlier. I think there was 8 or so different ways to control the Spal fan on their website.

 

Ah gotcha

 

I wonder if you could add something in between to reduce the draw in addition to the setup.

 

With a regular +70A load, you’d definitely want to consider an alternator upgrade.

 

Exactly

 

I like this. makes me wanna see what potential load ill see with an e fan and what my lightweight batt and alternator can muster. damn it, i have to math.

 

I think tow package gives +40A to the alternator, so as long as you’re not towing the battery only needs to potentially provide the other +30A.

 

Isn't the towing alt a 120 amp? Not sure on the Tacoma, but a lot of the newer vehicle are only charging on deceleration. During normal driving it is just enough to maintain 13.5-14 volts. This is to help efficiency.

 

The Tacoma alternator is 90A w/o tow package and 130A w/ tow package. Not much breathing room if you add a +70A load. As far as I’m aware the Tacoma has no such advanced electronics features, it doesn’t even have PWM.

 

That was me who stated the AC trigger wire will not work with our setups with the Lingenfelter controller. This came straight from Lingenfelter tech support direct. If you want to use it you can but you will have to set it to a fixed speed. Basically it won't use the ect sensor.

I threw away my shroud already so if there was a way to put it on, too bad so sad for me.

 

The Lingenfelter manual shows a table of devices and the PWM polarity. The Spal sealed brushless is Type 1 according to Lingenfelter. Their table says the PWM polarity is +.

The Autocoolguy sends -. There is an input at the bottom that connects to ground. I wonder if it could be connected to + and then it would send out a + on the PWM. Need to talk to Darryl and see if that’s possible.

 

@DocME has the Autocoolguy

 

I have two Spal fans that I'm running the HF-125 on and I absolutely love it. Here's the difference in what you and I have going on and why you may want to change out the fan you bought for a standard Spal fan. I'm using standard Spals which have simply a power and a ground lead. The Autocool guy controller simply modulates power to the flowing through the device to ground. If you want to run the fan you already have, wire it in the direct configuration which would be 100% all the time. Then the controller will work.The OEM style Spal is double the cost of a standard fan and if you're not going to use the functionality of it, might as well save some money.

I've got it.

This is absolutely designed to run a brushless fan like the spals. The spal fan that is being discussed here is design to internally modulate the fan speed based on an OEM signal. The Autocoolguy controller is made to modulate the power signal to the fan, that why its not working as expected.

That's how I would wire it and let the Auto cool guy modulate. Or return that much more expensive fan and get a standard Spal. You basically have two devices intended to perform the same operation working in series but you don't have the right signal for the OEM spal fan coming from the controller. The Lingenfelter controller just modulates a low power signal to the fan and the oem fan unit controls the power signal to the fan motor. The ACG controller is designed to work with two lead fans.

I think that's the beauty of PWM, it can control the motor acceleration profile so the fans don't have as much end rush current as if they were switched full on by a relay. It should reduce the peak amperage requirements and normal operation would be less than 100% as well. Maybe I'm wrong on this?

 

Anybody have a good thread/video I can read/watch to help me put these gauges in? Thanks in advance

 

depends on many factors. if you use a fuse tap for powering them and a good ground location the rest is just fishing wires through the firewall to your location of choice.
personally i run aem x-series in mine. but id opt for a smaller spectrum gauge than you have. if youre at stock trim you'll only see 6lbs max. having a gauge that goes to 35lbs is more for tubo motors.

 

if you like ill sell you my boost gauge cheap, if you can return what you have.

 

not a guide, but as @White lightning boosted pointed out, you'd be better with a lower number dial. This is how @81Trekker did mine but he used a custom bracket and it came out great.

 

Dare I ask why there is a bully dog in your truck?