Long Travel BS Thread

The chatter Nazis are coming out of the wood work. Go back to overlanding, nerds.

Someone needs to put 8" shock guts into a 12" body and relocate the CO mount higher with some stupid low spring rates and report back with how wonky the handling gets.

Maybe throw on a TC +2 sway bar if the handling is too bad.

 

you may be on to something!

 

Actually I was going to say anything less than a 12” dual rate is a waste of time - and I have 10” on my long travel rig. @snowsk8air2 knows some things about it that you might be able to ask him about when it comes to valving for chatter - I’ve seen some things you can do but don’t have specifics for your rig.

 

Eeehh mine is a little rough on small chatter if I rely strictly on valving. Aired down 37’s are what soak it up for me lol. Things will be changing drastically once I ever get bypasses up front.

That said, the flutter portion of my front valving is what does the work on chatter

 

Id love to hear some of your generalized ideas about the topic.

 

Still have some kinks to workout but first shakedown with the LT was fun and impressive. I got it mainly for increased articulation while crawling and can’t wait to get it in actual rocks once it’s more dialed in.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CQ4Z7H9D1tA/

 

Need a longer shock body for the tender spring to have enough travel to do anything useful. I remember Brian (red truck) making some bleeds for reducing chatter IIRC

 

last time I saw you were running 700 pound springs up front… no valving is gonna pull chatter out with a stiff spring. Like you said, you’re relying on tire pressure to soak it up. I’m not talking about wash board, I’m taking 3-6” rocks chatter.

like @tetten said, some one needs to put a 8” shaft on a 12” body and get really low spring rates to see if that works.

 

I was specifically talking about the “things you’ve seen.”

At the end of the day, valving varies per the application and expectation of the user. There are general concepts to follow but even those vary per tuner. What is great for you may not be great for me, etc.

 

Well, 10” of sidewall even aired down is maybe 8” makes a big difference lol. I hit 4-6” tree roots at speed and don’t feel them.

 

Following. Both washboard and 2-5” rocks. Chatter and dead loss in the ice chest. Plus my door seals are wearing out.

 

Does anyone know the size of banjo bolts for the front calipers on a second gen? Need to order a new one after bending one yesterday and losing my brakes. I guess I didn’t leave quite enough slack in the line. Luckily my friend had a 5’ long replacement and some adapters so we made it work.

 

Right, “at speed”. That’s the only time 700 pound springs will ride smooth.

Sure at speed, my truck runs really well, but when you’re not in the wide open desert and can go 50mph to smooth the ride out. Most trails do not have visibility around trees and corners. So slow it down to 15-25 mph and that tire isn’t enough to smooth the ride out.

here’s a clip that actually didn’t end up All that good to help with tuning. This trail was miserable to drive down. Super tight single track and impossible to go over 20 because of blind corners.

This was when I had 550 pound springs up front. 39x13.5 KM3 aired down to 4.5 - 5 psi to finally make it bearable.

 

So, someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but dual rate springs where the spring rates are close (500-550 for example) are only beneficial because the length and rate isn't really available. If you had that 500-550 combo, your combined spring rate is 525, but in a super long length.

Tender springs are definitely a different version, but I didn't think you could really get any that would function effectively on the size front coilovers *most* people are running on tacomas.

I could be be wrong, so please feel free to correct me.

 

The advantage is using dual rate springs to help dampen the compression stroke, not just holding the truck at ride height like a single spring set up.

the idea behind it is to have a super light spring rate for the first 3-4” of travel then then hit the dual rate slider and then use the stiffer lower spring to help catch the truck for bigger compression hits.

if you used 500/550 springs as mentioned above, the combined effective spring rate is 261.9 pounds per inch. Then when the dual rate slider hits, it would use the lower 550 pound spring until bump.

If you did a 700/700 set up, then the first part of travel would be 350 pounds per inch, then 700 pound spring for the bigger compression hits. Gets you the best of both worlds, heavy springs for compression dampening at high speed and light springs for chatter control.

All based around the fact that you cannot tune a stiff spring softer.

IE: The rear springs on my truck are 200/250 pound springs. The first 4” of up travel from ride height, is only 111 pounds per inch. Then when the dual rate stop hits, the last 4.5” of up travel, it goes to 250 pounds per inch to help catch the truck. Gives me a “floaty” 4” of up travel to cut out the chatter/ nuisance rocks without relying on shock valving to control all the compression when driving at higher speeds or big hits.

 

Question: how typical are uniball sizes? I want give this solo kit A fresh start. The uniball cup on the LCA measured 1.9 inches and the UCA measure 1.6 inches. Those measurements don’t make much sense to me, so I’m pretty sure I’m not measuring the right spot.

When I asked solo about the bushings and uniballs used in their kit, they said no one there remembers any of the specs associated with my kit. So I’m going all freestyle.

 

do you have an ORW near you ? if you bring the CA’s into any decent shop they can press the uniballs out for you and then you’ll know the exact spec. Same with the bushings just pop them out and bring them in to ORW

 

Oh sick. I've never been to ORW, but they just opened up a new location over in Corona, which is about 20 mins from me. Thanks ! That is much easier than trying to order them

 

They are standardized. You need to measure the side of the cup that has the c clip retainer. You’ll also need to confirm the hole size in the uniball and confirm the length of the unit. Buy good FK units from Kartek so you don’t end up replacing cheaper bearings in 8 months. The good FK’s should last you years.

 

The one that you measured at 1.9 may be a 2.0 cup. That would be a COMH16T which has an OD of 2.0 and a 1.0 ID. The 1.6 seems pretty small. Are there 1.75 cups?? Guess it could be that 1.625 OD bearing.