09 Taco super maintenance 100k job time thread

@acupunk called this one - looks like that ring was a part of the old axle seal, which makes sense it's right where I put the old seal down after I ripped it out predator style with a flat bar. Looks like it sat in that tiny groove. Whoo that is a relief!

 

I recently did a 130k Mile front end parts overhaul on my '10. Some were aged and some were rusted. The rest were done preemptively since parts were already separated.

New LCAs instead of just the bushings, New innner/outer tie rods, Cam bolts, Bilstein 6112s, replaced all the nuts and bolts involved.

Also added in stainless steel brake line. (TOTALLY WORTH IT!!!!)

I bought all of my OEM parts from here, I was able to get the help of their tech to help me with all of the replacement nuts/bolts https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/

 

I had been debating, jusyt buying new upper/lower LCAs or go through the hassle of pressing all that shit in and out. I have not done it on this truck before, nor looked at if it's any different than anything else for some reason.

Edit: ooooffff price. Too bad moog went to shit. But even Dorman, I think/assume, is still a totally reasonable brand to hang.

 

Personally I would just replace the LCA as a whole instead of trying to push the bushings out. 3x bushing on each side could get really annoying. Im not sure where you are located, but I had a shop do the install for me since I didn't want to deal with the New England rust. Check the prices of them OEM direct LCA vs purchasing the individual bushing and having the labor of pressing them. I think the price difference was maybe $60 more for LCA vs 3x bushings for each LCA. I would definitely look at changing the cam bolts, they rust and will eventually limit your alignment.

 

What did the stainless brake lines do for you besides just last longer, any other effect?

 

The factory line are rubber which is squishy and the rubber has to expand before it can deliver the full pressure of the brake fluid. Whereas the SS lines do not have that natural expansion that rubber has, so you will get a more instantaneous response from your brake pedal. The rigidity of the rubber lines will also be compromised by ambient temperature. The big one to keep in mind is that the rubber ages. After 100k miles I'd probably either replace with OEM rubber or upgrade them to Stainless steel line.

 

Yeah, I'm lazy, and also realized that I don't think I could find a shop that could do it correctly even if I was semi-lazy and didn't press anything myself. I would also have to find said press come to think of it.... In relation to my previous post with the edit, I will probably just grab some Dormans. Hope they have zerks, but eh. IIRC moog went to shit when they started making parts in Taiwan, started to see a lot of "sortafit" type shit. I actually I'm still fine with my current setup, but expect do be doing them in the next 25k or so.

 

I agree with trying to find a shop just to press the bushing lol. I saw all the post about compromised Moogs and only ok Doormans, so I decided to just go with OEM lol. They were much cheaper through that parts store vs anywhere else.

As far as the UCA I see most people go ahead and make the upgrade instead of just "replacing" them.

 

Oh, awesome. I just bled the brakes (and power steering) today, actually full flushed them. Fluid looks great but stopping power is still pretty mediocre. I will definitely look into that!

 

Toyota=Squishy brakes

You can get +2" extended brake lines for a more travel if you use your suspension lol .

 

Do you have a link for stainless steel brake lines ? Thanks.

 

They are an official vendor on here. Message them direct with questions. Great group.

 

Yeah wheelers is great. The thread about upgrading the master cylinder and booster caught my eye too. Might do the whole lot. Kind of my fault too, I did buy those load range E tires so…

 

Bad left front impact sensor was my air bag light problem. It’s been fine for 10 years, now

 

Thanks for the reply and link - I'm checking it out.

 

Mine throws a code for the driver side seat belt charge *open short*. Another tech on the forum here suggested I unplug it and bridge the connector actually creating a short so it would clear, or change to a proper code. It was a long time ago I’m fuzzy on those details. I’ll dig that back up and see.

I had no idea these were so inexpensive, great link here! That’s going on the list, especially if it firms up the brakes, even a little bit.

Editing to add, when I post from my phone it sounds like Im having a goddamn stroke. I'm not an idiot, I swear. Fucking autocorrect.

 

Crown makes some that look good, excessively abrasion protected by multiple layers. I used goodridge some 25 years ago.

An issue I had installing was the flare fittings were all mushroomed so taking the old brake lines off was nearly impossible. To get the new ones on I had to use jewelers files to remove enough of the mushrooming so they would go on, it took a really long time.

Once on the difference was definitely noticeable.

In case you don’t already know, getting air in the abs module can be a nightmare. I haven’t tried it yet but read here somewhere if you slightly depress the brake pedal, it prevents the reservoir from draining dry.

 

Thanks for this thread. Great source of info.