ABS ring on non-ABS truck?

Edit: Ok, so I'm guessing that covered port on the top outboard aspect of the axle housing is for an ABS sensor. Our current working theory is that Toyota set these up for quick ABS conversion. But in the case of my truck, it is mechanically ABS but not actually ABS. Does that make any sense?

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So, I've watched all the Timmy videos (thanks man!), ordered parts, and finally braved up and pulled my rear axles. Leaking like sieves. But as I snaked them out I see that they have what I think is the ABS ring with the teeth. There is no ABS sensor in the axle housing, my VIN doesn't suggest ABS, there's no fuse for ABS, and there's zero electronics near the axle except for the elocker.

Is there any chance the PO swapped in ABS axles? Is this why it's leaking so hard? I'm ready to haul these to get the new bearing and seals pressed in but I sure don't want to if these
aren't the correct axles.

2001 Tacoma TRD v6 manual SR5. Vehicle specs at mytoyota do not show ABS. I'm willing to post the VIN (is that a security risk?)

 

You have an ABS axle housing along with an ABS axle, you can tell from the distance between the face and the sealing surface, and the bolt on top with the blank off plate (that would normally hold the speed sensor) for the housing, and the longer area of larger OD surface on the axle. You wouldn't need the tone wheel (ABS ring) but it doesn't hurt anything. You do need two bearing retainers, as the outermost one holds the bearing in place (in conjunction with the snap ring) and the inner one is what actually seals on the seal.



Long story short, you have the correct combination of housing and axle.

 

Thanks so much @penadam! So I guess our working theory is correct. I need to order different bearings and retainers then. The inboard and outboard retainer are the same, right?

 

I believe the retainers and bearings are the same between the non-abs and abs axles, but yes, you need a total of 4 retainers. I know the parts diagram shows the retainers as non-reusable, but you can reuse them if they're in good shape and you pull them off instead of cutting them. If they're not, you really only need to replace the inboard one (sealing one) as all the outboard ones does is act as a spacer.

 

Every elocker housing was an ABS housing.

You need the additional retainers, but everything else should be the same. You don't need to reinstall the tone ring.

 

Edit: Same parts and axles currently getting pressed. Maybe someday my JBAs will actually ship too

@penadam @Squeaky Penguin Thanks both!

McGeorge (appropriately by VIN) corrected my original order to the 9036340068 bearings and the 9031354001 seals. I'm thinking I need the 9031348001 seals and the 903634002077 bearings (per Timmy's video). I'm checking with McGeorge and will post back to validate if the parts are same/different.

So I guess the moral of the story here is don't order axle parts until you actually pull a side and take a look!

 

I'm pretty sure the bearings and seals are the same as long as they were for the right year. There were a few changes made between 95-00 and 01-04. Your bearings should have an extended inner race on one side that matches the taper on the axle shaft.

 

@Squeaky Penguin Yessir, that's correct!

 

Can confirm what Brett @Squeaky Penguin and McGeorge said. Here's a writeup I put together if you want to print it out while you're doing the rest of the job. Part numbers match up with McGeorge for your year.

Replacing My Rear Axle Seals & Bearings (with photos)

Printable step-by-step guide: https://adventuretaco.com/guide/ste...ring-w-abs-1st-gen-tacoma-or-3rd-gen-4runner/

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@turbodb Thank you! Got your writeup and your picture version bookmarked. Fantastic work.