Small Generator/inverters

A question for you electrical/generator experts. The generator I bought has a 7000W running max and 8750W surge max.

It has a 30A L14-30P outlet. My house came wired with a 50A receptacle so I bought a 30A cord and an adapter from the 30A to the CS6364 50A.

The adapter has a tag stating 7500W max. The manufacturer states that’s the most wattage the generator can produce from the 30A outlet. So my question is, would the adapter (and generator) be able to handle a surge on the 30A outlet alone over 7500W?

Also, based on the spec plate from my AC unit, if I was running next to nothing else in the house, could I run the A/C? It’s set up in two zones and I’m having trouble figuring out the wattage draw for normal use, and for only the downstair or upstairs zone.

 

Are you backfeeding your whole panel? Yikes. But hopefully you have lockouts so nobody gets fried.

From the questions you're asking, you should probably explore a transfer switch. Otherwise you need to do the math and figure out how many (and which) circuits you can run in your panel with the 7kw. You'll probably want to make sure you turn your oven and hot water heater off before you crank it up.

Hard no on the AC. 220v X 26.5 amps is about 6KW. Plus the starting amperage of the AC unit will be at least 2-3x that, so 12-18KW is required. You might damage components in your AC if you try it, and get some really weird noises.

 

Yes, back feeding the entire panel. I would just turn off the breakers to anything I don’t want to include before switching over. The installation consists of a switch and lockout with breakers for the generator receptacle, it’s all appropriate.

Copy all on the oven, as well as the wife’s hot glue gun, blow drier, etc. Luckily the oven/range and hot water are all on gas so the electric requirement there is minimal.

Really appreciate the info on the starting wattage requirement, I think I have a perfectly capable setup to run the outlets, lights, fridges/freezers, and TV. AC is purely a nice to have, although one could argue that it’s all a nice to have. First world problems. Good to know to not even think to fire up the HVAC.

 

Look at the LRA on the label: Locked rotor amps. The amperage needed to get the compressor motor to start rotating. That's what you are up against. 130 amps. Says so right on the label. That's 15,600 watts alone. With margin for the load to not stall your generator upon inrush you are going to need at least a 20Kw unit. I know of one guy that bought a 27500 portable generator. He HATES it. If you are even going to get close to running that central A/C you'll need a Micro-Air Easy Start on your Trane, unless your Trane has a TXV in the system to regulate refrigerant pressure. If so you are screwed, the Micro-Air will not work. Find out about the presence of a TXV in the Trane first, find out FROM TRANE. If not, then proceed. Even with a Micro-Air you are on the ragged edge of your generator's capacity if you load on the central air. Best option, get 1-3 window A/C's, RIGHT NOW because they are on sale. They won't be cheap again until June of next year. If you are going to run your central air with a Micro-Air you need at least a 15Kw if not a 20Kw generator. Plan on natural gas only, because you gonna' be up every four hours otherwise feeding that gas hog! And one that big will have a massive 900cc+ V-twin that will be LOUD AS HELL! Most people in the know and having chased this for a while just give in and buy window A/C units. Mine are out in the shop, in their original boxes. One 6000Btu installed on permanent stand-by duty in the wife's bedroom window (even with central air) in case we need it on short notice, will cool my bedroom across the hall too. One 12,000Btu here in the office to keep it cool in here, then three backups out there in the shop (two 12,000Btu's and one 6,000Btu unit) because they just aren't that expensive if you buy them right. (And, like cigarettes, they make excellent currency after a hurricane.) Ask yourselves, who among us wants to wear the scorn of our hot and sweaty wife when the power goes out and she's baking? Like Red Green said, "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." A smart one will choose handy over handsome every time! Let her see you sweating a little to get that window unit installed in her window and blowing cool air on her and her bed and you gonna' be popular tonight.

Guys, go spend some time on https://www.powerequipmentforum.com/forums/generator-forum.9/. It'll save you a buncha' time and money.

And you can get a professional to replace that 30amp plug on your generator with a 50amp. THEN you can wire it through a 50amp double pole breaker in your box and not be limited to its 30amp set-up. MAKE SURE you get a professional to do it though. This is rocket science.

 

Good post.

As for the TXV, it most likely has one, most have TXV's nowadays for efficiency. It could be metered, but unlikely. I'm a Trane dealer and can't remember the last time I installed a Trane without a txv.

Anything's possible though.

More than anything I just wanted to say I liked your post lol. You had me at Locker Rotor Amps.

EDIT: I just noticed that is a heat pump data plate, it's should have a TXV.

 

Thank you Lt.! Just tryin' to be...handy!

 

Yep, some good late-night laughs there.