MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

I did the Dremel "defeat" method. Took my time and the whole thing took less than two hours. It helps to have some swivels and wobbly extensions to get the top heat shield bolt.

I also have a pneumatic brake bleeder that made quick work of the re-bleed.

 

Really interesting reading about this, coming from the BMW world they call it a Clutch Delay Valve and it's just as annoying for seasoned drivers, one of the first things to go!

 

Do it. You will not regret it.

I'll join in on the, if I can do it, you can to club also.

 

they got all 4 variations in stock now lol. never heard of them tho.

 

Neither have I

 

Honestly, can't see any reasons TO DO THIS MODE. Mine clutch seems works just fine for me, since clutch pedal assembly replacement under warranty.
Been driving various vehicles with manual shift for over 30 years, on the both sides of the Ocean. Tacoma clutch seems working slightly different to me
for first 2 weeks, but then clutch pedal starts squeaking, was replaced under warranty, and now it feels so natural and nice!

 

No one said you had to, it's just being offered here with a lot of community support because it does in fact make a mechanical difference. If you don't want to do it, great.

 

What @CygnusX191 said.

NBD. Just ignore it.

There's a butt for every mod. This one doesn't fit you, and that's okay. A few other folks that did the mod and came away feeling like you noted.

The vast majority feel differently, and that's okay also.

My big deal is having options and giving folks the choice.

 

I was in your camp for a while until construction changed my daily route and I was doing a whole bunch of uphill starts and steep uphill downshifts to maintain speed. I was like, WTF?!? Why am I struggling with this? I've been driving manual since the '80s.

I did the mod and even posted that I wasn't sure it made a difference. A week later and lots more uphill starts and uphill downshifts... I completely changed my mind It's well worth the effort.

 

I’m not overly sold on the ROI but the LOE was reasonable and it feels like a rite of passage. If given a choice I’m happier without. I haven’t ever read of someone missing it and putting it back in.

It was a solid afternoon which could have been spent doing something else. I don’t think it’s a critical mod. But I’m definitely happy I got it done.

 

Does anyone know if its possible to change the shift lever? Only the lever, not the entire "floor shift lever assembly."

If it were threaded on and could be swapped out that would be great. But I'm not about to just go torque on it to find out. Best I've found is videos removing/replacing the assembly, but no good pics or info on the lever or how its attached.

 

I'm pretty sure cut and weld is your only option, and likely not a good idea. I believe everything below the rubber isolator is one piece. You may be able to somehow separate the upper and lower pieces, but you would then still have to add a sleeve, threads, or some other way to attach an extension.

 

You could put a core short shifter in there

 

Why stop at just one?

 

Big Daddy Ed Roth wanna be, right there.



Edit: I couldn't find a good "truck" version

 

Planning on doing this dremel mod next weekend. Backing the boat up the uphill driveway has been burning my clutch up... I wish I could get that 2Lo Mod also.

 

A perfect use case for both...

 

I've read through this entire thread and can't quite see just "how" the accumulator works.

Does it rely on mechanical flex and seal compliance to add volume to the connecting piping between the master and slave cylinders?
(sort of like the difference between rubber OEM flex brake lines and braided stainless lines)

Why the disc shape with "no moving parts"?

Any help?

 

You can use 4Lo if you can keep the driveline from binding up.

The 2LM is the bomb diggity though.

Sorry, but I explained it quite a few times in this thread.

The disk does move, just a bit. When engaging the clutch, there is negative pressure in the lines, esp when doing it quickly. That negative pressure pulls the disk toward the ports restricting flow.

The square seal is both a seal and a damping element.

Even worse, people like me that don't use a constant engagement motion, the damping / restricting action makes it even worse as the accumulator gets everything confused.

 

It's bernoulli principle..that's all