Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

this was a game changer, along with the foam cannon and oscillating nozzle

jOYjOB Pressure Washer Extension Wand with Gutter Cleaner Attachment Commercial Telescoping Power Washer

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083L4DC8R/

 

Need to get around to building something like this. But knowing me I’d go way overkill on it and do a step at 1’,2’,3’,4’ lol

 

Honestly, I have one and while it does ok it’s not a game changer in my books. Still doesn’t get in the frame rails or anything else. So at that point I’ll just roll around on the creeper.

Edit: Ignore me, @EatSleepTacos snuck a quick one on me with the edit lol.

 

It was a fun project but also incredibly time consuming. There's 60' of tubing there and roughly 20' of weld, laid in 1" increments.

 

Oh I bet. Built my parents a rack for the back of their motorhome and it was triple the time and effort I was planning on. Not to mention the cost of materials

 

we need to link more Amazon cleaning supplies and pervert the affiliate links at the bottom. People show up to this thread thinking its about LT and 35" BS and see all the car detailing and silicone spray...

@81Trekker what did you use to get the engines looking so dapper?

 

@RonRon23 So you've got JD's spring under setup, yes? And you mentioned you already have Archive towers as well? I'm curious to see how you set yours up with them. I've got 14's in my AG towers, but they're too big without setting the lower mount way low.

 

No. I plan to. Just not yet. I’m running the 539/540HD pack with a couple leaves pulled out. I will be cutting off the archive towers. You’ll run into the same issue with the lower eyelet hanging down super low past the spring pack if you keep the shocks with the archive tower. I would imagine you’ll run into rubbing issues as well with the amount of flex the h70 springs have.

 

Exactly, I’m right with you there. 14s and the AG towers kinda work with SOA, but would be ludicrous with the extra bump gained from SUA. I’m leaning towards cutting off the AG towers and getting a proper LT rear built. I think the added performance would outweigh the money and labor saved with keeping the towers and running a 12” shock.

 

I'm pleading ignorance in this regard, but what exactly is the difference between the AG towers with SUA and a "proper LT" rear system? I'm not putting that in quotes for sarcasm, just genuinely curious. Is it shock length, shock placement, etc.

 

AG towers won’t yield the same travel numbers. They place the shocks too vertical.

 

Well in my situation the sua kit I have locates into the oem hanger locations. The long travel kits, put the leaf packs farther outboard of the frame with a longer leaf pack.

While the archive towers will function, they aren’t very well suited for the application. Could it work? Yes, but I’ve never tried it, might have issues with the shock not cycling correctly for a long travel pack. At bump you’ll still have an awfully low lower mount. Why go the trouble of setting up a long travel sua if you’ll handicap it by bad shock placement?

 

Pretty much what the others said about shock placement and travel. There’s also structural differences. Most built prerunner Tacomas are running bedcages which tie-in the top shock mounts with both sides of the frame. Now, we’ve already discussed the weaknesses of our frames, so for an actual “long travel” built rear, I’d say it’s gotta have some sort of cage whether through and above the bed or just riding on top of the bed, still a cage. Im partial to the low profile cages that @81Trekker and @glorifiedwelder have built.

 

My slide rack, Howe pump and rear long travel kit arrived yesterday. Stoked to get that all installed. Snapped a CV this evening though. The inner 934 is fine, but the axle or the outer went. Not sure which yet.

Broke just above this spot

 

I thought that was supposed to be almost impossible?

 

I’ll be curious to see how you get the outer joint off while keeping the shaft in tact, assuming it’s the outer joint. That’s been something I’ve wondered about if I were to ever snap an axle.

 

That’s disappointing. Front locked? What’d you plug the diff up with to get back? I kept two spare reg travel cvs in the truck but two spare 934s ain’t in the budget. Might cut the stubs off of some trashed ones unless there’s a better way

 

That’s what I do. I have two disassembled cv’s as a get home kit, meaning two inners and two outers. That way if I manage to grenade the front diff, I can still drive home.

If anyone else wants to do this, this is the cheapest CV I could find after a quick search. Doesn't really matter on the quality since it's just to get you home and you're cutting them up anyways. $140 for peace of mind is worth it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324295793126?fits=Model:Tacoma&epid=75377351

 

My plan is to carry a disassembled spare outer, assuming that it'll be the outer which fails, not the shaft. On the trail I'll just cut the outer CV appart to get it off the axle shaft and put the new outer on.

And yes, I carry a battery powered angle grinder with cutoff wheels on the trail.

 

It's a handy tool to have. I had to shave down a rear bumper bolt to replace a caliper bolt on a friends truck mid Pott's.