Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

23* strapped or unstrapped? Assuming thats not strapped it may be less than 1" depending on where you strap it

 

Unstrapped. But we covered earlier in the thread (or maybe it was in the LT BS thread) that Harry limits the coilvoer to 7.5" so even without the strap, the kit is safe. The strap is just there to work with the coilover in unison at full droop. I'm not losing any droop based on the strap. This is full droop, unstrapped and still a good safety factor before uniball hits metal. If I really wanted to I could remove the droop limiter in the coilover and squeak a little more droop out of this, but I'm not getting hung up over fractions of an inch.

 

Not to disagree with the guy behind the product, but last year I had a buddy rip his Fox coilover apart because he wasnt strapped. Thats why I ended up strapping mine this year. It ripped his cap right past the clip.

 

It is strapped. I just meant that the strap takes up the brunt of the force but it works in tandem with the coilover at droop to minimize force on the coilover without robbing droop. At least that's how I have mine set up.

 

Right, but what is the angle strapped at droop? thats my main question. If its 22* or less youre talking a loss of maybe 1/2"

 

That shouldn't matter, right? I would think that the ultimate final droop angle is what matters, after taking strap stretch into account. If you're running regular CV's you should strap it so even at full strap stretch, you're still not getting onto CV binding. I just unbolted my strap so I could see what that ultimate final droop is in my garage.

 

Right, but if full droop to bind or full extension is 23* what is strapped full extension? 22* maybe? So if the stock inner can do 21, you’re still talking 1/2” or so. And in the big picture, that’s a pretty expensive 1/2” if you don’t currently have issues with CV’s.

 

What I'm saying is at full droop, nothing is binding, not even close. So I'm using every single bit of the kit as it stands on my truck, all 23* worth. Maybe that's the disconnect here.

 

Pretty sure that’s illegal. You have to use limit straps to limit the travel from max available.

 

Shoot, let me go check the Long Travel by-law's.

 

I get what you're saying now

That's what I'm getting at.

 

If I were regularly hucking my truck then I would limit it a little more. But in an OEM setup, the coilover is the limiting factor and on most trucks, that's not an issue and in that specific regard, this kit is similar. The straps see most of the force, plus I only crawl, so I don't foresee an issue. If I blow apart a coilover in the future, I'll eat crow and own it.

 

I think lots of it boils down to wheeling style. Personally I do find max droop often at speed. Slow moving stuff would likely never pull a shock apart regardless of being strapped or not. It's the harsh over extension that's likely to cause it.

 

Not really. Have you seen the way this guy wheels? There will always be a weak point. I'd rather it be the outer than the diff.

 

I was thinking the same thing. I haven’t blown a shock or ball joint out crawling so I wasn’t going to strap the front, especially with 934s. I felt a little better knowing Fox puts an internal soft bump in there too. Maybe I’m wrong. It’s just money, right?

 

My mid travel Kings also have the soft bump. When I rebuilt my fronts this year, one of my clips did indeed start pushing out of the groove. Whether or not over extension caused this, I cant say. But I wasn't far off from having a problem.

 

I’ve probably got the same Kings you do. Do you do anything at speed or just crawling?

 

I do a mix of slow and at speed. At speed is when I used to notice the harsh top outs before strapping. Its not nearly as harsh now but the straps are being used often, which is what's pushing me to the 2.25.

 

The outer is still stock, so I'm not surprised!

I didn't put the c-clip back in when reassembling, so I can just slide the outer right off and slide a new one on without dissassembling the inner.

I just drove slow. The boot held it together all the way home with a light "clunk clunk clunk". I'll probably carry a spare inner and outer going forward though.

 

Why would you need two spare 934 CV’s? The outers are what’s always going to break.

ive said it plenty of times that the outer CV is by far the weak link.

The 934 allows for more droop but what it also does is allows for a longer axle because of the plunging style CV. The longer axle reduces the outer CV angle and in turn reduces failure.

I’m happy to build custom spindles that use a 934 outer CV with a mid-board stub shaft but I highly doubt anyone is going to want to pony up the dough for the cost of them