Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I'm assuming that was intentional and so you can easily swap out in the future. Do you think that's why it failed?

 

You didn’t put the clip on?!?

the axle will pull out of the outer at full droop/lock with out them. I’ll bet you didn’t even break your outer... you’re axle pulled out of the outer CV and stripped the very end of the axle splines.

YOU HAVE TO RUN THE OUTER CV CLIP

 

That's not what Jesse told me on the phone

 

It’s absolutely why it failed, you can not run them without the outer clip

 

No, we both told you that you do not run the inner clip

 

Oh boy, Harry used caps lock. It's getting serious now.

 

Maybe I misunderstood. The inner was already assembled so I assumed it was all good and I asked about the outer clip, but whatever, not a big deal. I'll pull it apart and see

 

We assemble all the inners without a clip as they are not needed. The outer clip is always needed.

 

@81Trekker, what is the actual loss in travel staying with the stock inners? Not sure if it’s been mentioned or not. I’m personally just trying to decide if I can justify it or not.

 

I’d limit it almost 2” with stock inners to be on the safe side

 

Ok, they are justifiable then.

 

The actual loss w/o 934’s is…your manhood

 

Good to know. At least swapping it will be easy as long as the axle is fine!

 

When's the last time your truck hit dirt?

Because I've put some miles on my setup already w/o 934s and my manhood is still debatably intact...

 

I’m willing to bet you stripped the very end of the axle splines when it pulled out of the CV. If so I’ll send you a new shaft on the house because I like you

 

It's worth doing the 934s. Are you considering the +2.25"? I didn't write the numbers down but I think I lost at least .5" of shock travel (maybe more) running non-934s which is about 1" at the wheel. Then you have to take the stretch of the strap into consideration so you'll strap earlier than that to be safe so the 2" recommendation isn't far off.

 

I'm sold on doing the 2.25. Just trying to plan it all out appropriately before I start forking cash over. I will also be doing the SUA. SUA is my top priority because I absolutely hate the rear as it sits now.

 

Sorry to ask a repetitive question gents, but there's no posts that really compile all the info in this thread with pros/cons and each "stage" with respective capabilities.

That said, what does JD Fab @81Trekker offer for 35s on a stockish setup to get better alignment, wheel travel in the fender well, stop the rub, and beef the stress points (axles, steering)?
I've already chopped the cab mount pretty aggressively and hammered shit, I do have body mount relocation brackets from AllPoo to put on since the chop wasn't enough. I still rub a fair amount inside the fender too. Trimmed outer fenders and don't believe I touch them at all.
Running SPC UCA, stock lower, 5100s set to 0 cup height with HS 2" lift coils, 3rd gen OR wheels with Spidertrax 1.25" spacers, and gusseted spindles. I have bumpstop spacers for the Superbumps and thought about going one notch up on the 5100 to mitigate uptravel, in theory.

 

The LCA Relocation Pivots (https://jdfabrication.com/collections/05-15-6-lug/products/tacoma-05-18-lower-arm-pivots) is going to do a lot of what you're looking for, but I think the "correct" answer is that 35s are going to rub unless you can get down with the