Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

They offer the appropriate solution of going back to 33s.

 

The inner fenders JD has really appealed to me after seeing all the missing paint on my inners lol! Or just means I do need to cut and hammer more.
If the lower pivot assembly will remedy what I want, then that's what I'll get.

 

Well that's just stupid























but considered many times

 

Actually Monday and Wednesday this week AND I haven’t even washed the dirt off yet either it’s horrible

 

I mean, the LCA pivots aren't going to 100% solve your problems, but it'll move the wheel forward a bit while also strengthening the whole assembly. It sounds like you also should look into a "better"/more adjustable shock/spring idea as well as the inner fenders to maximize your uptravel.

 

Having some fun in the garage today actually cycling this kit. One piece of advice, don’t rush the install like I did and actually take the time to do this.

She clears lock to lock, just needed a little more trimming up front. I did already tub my firewall but I am getting away with stock cab mount cut to pieces.

My super bumps weren’t doing their job of protecting the suspension. The upper uniball was hitting metal on metal before the bumps bottomed out. I’m adding a 1/2” spacer to keep from metal on metal contact again.

 

It's tough for me to justify $2k in front shocks when the 5100s have served me well and I'm more into crawling being a 4 banger, but banging limiter in the dirt at speed is fun AF!

I realize I do need a better shock/spring solution. Trying to not blow all my house sale profits on the truck

 

The ball joint was topping out before anything else and you don't have hydros?

 

did the 0.875” or whatever the lower arm moves forward help to get the tire away from the rear or was that negligible after the change to the scrub radius from pushing the wheel further out 2.25”?

 

Correct. While parked like this, I walked around and inspected stuff and found the upper uniball to be metal on metal. My super bumps were engaged but they’re so soft that they could still compress more. I have a little divot on the inner part of each uca where uniball was hitting metal on metal under full stuff. Not a huge deal, just something to note.

 

I don’t know, hard to say since I’ve already tubbed my firewall. Here’s my clearance at full stuff and lock with 3.5” bs 9” wide wheels.

 

Did you notate how much shock travel was left at that point? Aren't the Super Bumps supposed to be close to the OE bump height?

 

There’s 1.75” left of shock at upper uniball metal on metal.

The super bumps are a little taller than OE but they compress further than OE. When I switched from OE to super bumps on my mid travel, I noticed I would scrub the top of the inner fender on hard hits. I didn’t do that before on OE bumps because they’re so firm.

 

I’ve seen a few other LT manufacturers, such as my dirt king kit, provide spacers for the oem bump stops to space the bump down. Think mine are like 1/2” thick. But you still having 1.75” of shaft showing seems like a lot

 

My guess, and I could be wrong, is that Harry slightly clocked the upper uniball to be more for droop than uptravel to keep the tire out of the inner fender. This is full stuff. Or just recognized that it doesn’t necessarily matter if there’s a little unused shaft at bump. It is nice knowing I’ll never bottom out my shock.

 

Just a guess, but you'd likely need the +4" kit to use all of the available shock travel due to ball joint limitations. My ball joint maxes out on droop before the shock. I'm running OE bumps though so I didn't check the clearance at bump. I'll have to do that.

 

You have the shock installed incorrectly if you have have that much shaft showing. There should only be about a 3/8” shaft when the cup tops out

 

That's my guess as well. Harry mentioned in the past that it could pull even more travel with horizontal uniballs but no one would pay for a fab'd spindle. Seeing the limitations of the uniballs, it would be really cool to see how a horizontal uniball does.

 

You tell me

 

Is the shock mount on top of the bucket?

It needs to be mounted underneath.

Here is a pic at full bump, the 3.0 with a welded loop shows 5/8” shaft and the coilover is at 3/8