Replacing AC Compressor or recharging AC on 3rd Gens

Jesus christ man, let it go. It's a holiday weekend, take time off from being a dick.

 

I don't understand why people think this can easily be done, sure it can, but people trying to think this is easy like retro fitting an R12 system to r134a are clueless. If the expansion valve won't work correctly back dating to R134a what's the point? The A/C system in the 3rd gen is already marginal in hot climates to start with, but if someone has money to piss down their leg have at it.

 

I don't see how posting a link is being a dick facts are facts, feel free to smash the ignore button if you feel hurt about it

 

It is a crime to convert from r1234yf to r134a so I’ll put it this way. [redacted] helped a friend convert his Honda Civic from r1234yf to r134a. You can get adaptors to get by the different style high and low pressure connectors. Then you just have to play the pressure game. There are conversion charts out there to help with that too. [redacted] lost about 5-10% cooling capacity due to what I believe is the differences in expansion valves. No other issues and it’s been far more reliable since the conversion.

just be aware that you will have to do your own ac work from then on if you convert. A dealer won’t touch an r1234yf system that’s been converted and the whole federal crime thing will scare off some mechanics.

do at your own risk. The Taco has a good AC system so I’d just pay the extra cost to keep the correct refrigerant. The Honda Civic sucked and 100% needed to be converted.

 

Wanted to provide an update on my original post. The initial problem was the AC wouldn't stay on and Techstream was showing error B1422 (Compressor lock active). Toyota wanted $2200 to replace the compressor and recharge the system. A friend of mine said there is really nothing much in the compressor that can go wrong and highly recommended I first try replacing the magnetic clutch. I bought a used compressor (with mag clutch and speed sensor) that came from a salvage 2019 Tacoma off of ebay. Replacing just the mag clutch fixed it! The only thing we removed was the skid plate but getting the snap ring off for the magnet was a royal PITA. Anyway... if your AC goes out I would definitely looking into replacing the mag clutch before replacing everything. Toyota dealer will not replace just the clutch.

 

Awesome that you were able to fix this yourself without actually dealing with the refrigerant. May help someone else in the same predicament.

 

Toyota does sell the clutch separately. In fact, if Toyota orders a compressor, it will come without the clutch, because it's only supplied separately.

88410-04070 - Clutch, Compressor (2016-2021 Tacoma, V6 and 4-Cyl)

Without condoning anything at all, for what it's worth, not all 2016+ Tacomas use R1234yf, some still used R134a depending on country, which makes it easier to compare the differences between the systems.

The compressor is the same for both, as is the condenser, and pressure sensor. The only differences between the two seem to be the pressure ports, evaporator/expansion valve, and the refrigerant itself. They even list the same PSD-1 oil for both, which initially seemed odd, but it's listed as such in multiple locations.

The system is to be charged with 510 +/- 30 g of R134a or 600 +/- 30 g of R1234yf.

Jeff

 

If the compressor stops cycling (clicking on and off) a good test for this in the future for everyone is; while the truck is running, and AC on coldest, and on, tap the clutch with a screwdriver. The magnetic clutch has spec on "distance" from the compressor. (not sure if it's adjustable tho)...just another way to check.
Zim

 

Standard clearance is 0.30 to 0.60 mm. It is adjusted using shims, which come in a bag with the following thicknesses: 0.2 mm, 0.3 mm, and 0.5 mm.

Jeff

 

I'm so glad you're here. Literally invaluable.

 

I just charged my ‘16 yesterday. Due to sitting so much last year from work from home, I believe I lost some refrigerant and the AC was blowing room temp air. I bought the $70 bottle off Amazon (with gauge) and am back in business. Luckily I did not have a compressor issue as not sure I would have tried to source a vacuum system myself.

 

One other update... I could have done the repair in about 10 minutes had I been more observant. It turns out that the only thing wrong with the original clutch was the outer plate(?), the rubber like material was failing and you could turn the inside separate from the outside. Mine came completely apart once I started messing with it. So... there's a decent chance that just replacing that part could have fixed it. And it would have literally taken about 10minutes since that is on the outside of the clutch and I wouldn't have had to remove even the serpentine belt.