1100 rpm’s in park & neutral is high, yes?

i was idling at 1700. Had a bad IAC & replaced it. I am now at 1100 in park & neutral & 750 in gear.

With the truck running, I can push in the rear (vacuum) stop screw a hair. This tells me the linkage (front) stop screw has clearance, which it should not. Correct? This only brings the idle down to 1,000.

Resistance tests per the FSM, are .04 (throttle closed), 2.5 (throttle wide open) & 3. They are each just above the minimum.

I really don’t quite get the instructions though given it specifies using a thickness gauge, yet this only makes a dif on the 1st test, plus no gap size is specified. Could be doing it incorrectly of course.

Lastly, I had read about putting a shim in behind the spring linkage spool (name please?). People who did this had to grind down a washer or use a crush. While I do have a little play there which increases as the throttle is opened, I see the space where the washer/shim would go is much bigger on my throttle body. I realize Toyota made many changes to these.



Oh, & I am AT. No dashpot.

So looking for guidance on my next steps. I don’t wanna go messing around too much with this on my own. Normally i’m ok with trying that or that. Somehow this is akin to electrical stuff though. Easy to make it worse & miss the actual problem.

 

I would check for vacuum leaks and clean the throttle body. Also check and see if the throttle body closes all the way.

 

Vacuum checked. But i’ll check again. Throttle body cleaned. & my guess is that since I have a little in out movement with the spring linkage & with the truck running I can manually close the vacuum more (still room between the stop screw) that there is a leak or an adjustment needed.

So question - besides the throttle body vacuum for the TPS (photo)

(apologies - learning new terms, so please feel free to correct me) what other vacuum be ok at idle in gear & high in park? What else changes? Or is it not that simple?

 

It takes the ECU a few start/stops to relearn after the intake is cleaned, battery is disconnected, etc

Has it been that long?

 

Ok. More apologies. I’m wrong. The cruise control cable part is hitting the stop screw, even with engine off. The middle one (transmission kick down?) is what closes when I manually manipulate the vacuum.

& I can wiggle the cruise control cable spring guide back & forth (loose).

I seriously need a lesson on how this all works.

 

Yes. I’d say about 8. I have not done any long rides though.

 

By back & forth wiggle I mean towards the front of the engine & then towards the back.

 

Make sure your throttle body isn't worn like this.

 

Mine is like this, although I can close it a pinch more when I press the vacuum in, which is what it seems to not be doing even with it running since I can still press it in manually.

Plus I have a little in & out play at the spring pulley linkage, so I imagine if the shimming thing works, that would pull it to the right which is where I have more of a gap.

Oh, & I cleaned it up even more since this pic taken last week.

 

So I backed off the front stop screw & it brought the idle down to about 850 & the in gear to 700. No play now with the vacuum when idling in park. Hope that was ok.