The LED SAE J583 Fog Pod & Fog Light Review

Yes. Keep in mind that if you want 4000K (using the yellow lamps) your backlight choice is limited to amber only. No red, blue, or white.

Try this: Flush mount installation

 

I ran my new SS3 sports in -40 winter storm this year... no freezing up...
Also ran them in freezing rain... no freezing up...

 

. I picked up clear sports with amber covers. Saved a bit of cash for either a light bar or stoptech brakes.

 

Thanks for all you hard work. My DD fogs are in.

 

-40 doesn’t actually run much freezing risk as the snow is too dry. It is the wetter snow closer to freezing that is problematic.

Be sure to check out the brake thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/brake-upgrade-stoptech-rotors-trd-performance-pads.523829/

And driving light thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-sae-j581-aux-high-beam-thread.696597/

 

Well it goes from -40 to +40 in 365 days. So I'm sure you can assume I drive through everything lmao.
But in all honesty, they have never froze up on me...

I know you're a visual kind of guy, so here's a little graph I found. Too bad it doesn't show the "feels like" temperatures. We had -45 this winter (pretty normal for a week) and +45 last week (not so normal).

 

So Fogs for an auxiliary low beam? Or is that a completely different category

 

Aux low beam is a completely different pattern. I'm not aware of any pods that are an aux low beam, but there are many 7" round LED lights as well as rectangular LED lights. JW speaker is a high quality brand to look at. Rigid/Truck-lite makes some, so does KC. Mounting is usually the trickiest part. An easy solution is to look at 'snow plow' versions that come with all the mounting brackets which would be easy to mount on a plate bumper, but not the prettiest.

 

Can someone help with some simple wiring advise.

Currently have ss3 fogs installed (album with how its currently wired in my fuse box) (edit: This is how the switch is installed) but its causing all sorts of random electronic issues. For example, when I lock my car, the AC turns on for 2 seconds and then shuts off or when I lock my car, the turn signals stay on for 5 seconds before finally turning off.

I plan on using another fuse but if someone can double check that I have the correct logic, that would be great.

1) I have an open slot at 11. According to my manual, it has 20 amps.
2) Using a 20amp fuse, I will plug it in the slot on the outer side of the tap adapter (Since there is only a single fuse)
3) The fuse direction does not matter, but the tap adapter should be pointed downwards

Am I missing anything?

 

What is your application? Is there not an OEM fog light circuit to tap into? Locking your car and the AC turning on should be independent of the fogs unless you've done some really questionable wiring mods. How are you activating the fogs, is it an aftermarket switch?

 

Hi Crashnburn, yes my car did not originally come with fog lights and this is an after market relay + switch. The only other thing I have install are projector headlights but it did not require me to open up the fuse box.

If you take a look at the album of my current set up, if I unplug the red wire, all the electronic problems disappear.... I am not sure what I did wrong

 

Unsure on your vehicle setup but run your red power wire directly to the battery positive terminal instead of that fuse box location. Should resolve your issues.

 

This is a layout of my current relay. There is already a positive red wire going into the battery. From the tutorials ive seen, people normally connect the positive (trigger) wire to the cabin fuse box?

 

The positive trigger wire should be to your aftermarket switch, not to any fuse box location. It activates the relay which draws power from the battery to power your fogs. There should be nothing about your OEM fuse box in this wiring setup.

 

This looks like the harness that he’s using so he has it somewhat correct. I bet that wire in that socket is touching 2 pins. Looks like there is at least 6 male pins in there. You just need to put that add a fuse in a ignition powered fuse slot, does not need to be an empty slot.

 

Sorry getting a little lost. but your correct, my switch is currectly plugged into the relay socket with the highlighted pins

 

I edited my post, I don’t think that’s a relay socket. Why 2 pins? What kind of vehicle is this?

 

a civic 2014 lx. This is the tutorial i followed for wiring except i am using ss3s. (starts at 17:50). He goes on to talk about fuse 16 but I dont have anything in my fuse 16 slot.

The wiring for my kit was slightly different but similar.

https://youtu.be/u8SxlrKcdv8?t=1060

 

Wouldn’t follow anything that guys does... ever.

 

I am looking at the stop tech rotors now. The 126 Sl non cryo sports are on sale locally for $80.00. The cryos are about $150.00. I dont tow or carry weight. Would the Sl rotors and trd pads be an upgrade from stock?