Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro

If IM has theirs in stock, buy it. Worth every penny. If you need something to get by, go with the Gedore 80-90 (Then buy the IM when it's back in stock)
I used the Gedore to drop my coils while they were installed. Wheel removed, suspension at full droop, still needed like a 3ft breaker bar but it worked!
I'd spray some WD-40/liquid wrench, whatever you preferred penetrating oil on as many bolts as you can the week or so leading up to your install. My install took 2 days in the driveway. The next day we did my buddies full setup in one day. Both 2020's with minimal challenges. But seized hardware will make it a much less fun experience and can add a lot more time and energy. Good luck with install, keep asking questions!

 

I was checking out my suspension and tq stripes today and noticed what looks like the leaf pack shackle bolt rubbed the fuel tank. Not sure if that could happen from driving or when I was at the beach or when the fuel pump was replaced. I tried but would not be able to swap the bolt around for the head on the tank side. I took a few metal SS fender washers and put under the bolt head now only 1-2 threads stick out. Should not be an issue anymore.
While typing this, even though I knew I put them on the correct sides, I made sure the N/S leaf was on passenger side. It was/is on the correct side.

 

I feel like that bolt needs to be inserted the other way with the nut facing away from the tank. Maybe they messed up?

 

Yea, looks like it. I’ve got an off road trip this weekend but next week I’ll drop the front of the leaf and turn it around. I’m pretty sure it’ll be ok…

 

I just placed an order for their spanner wrench since it's on sale for $79 and in stock. Was going to do a Will Call but saw that 4pm is the latest I can pick up at their facility so I'm having them ship.

 

Great deal going on at IM with kit purchase-

 

Dangit. All I got was a set of free Treds.

 

My treds haven't even shown up. Think I can bug em into sending out some skids instead? That would be quite the score.

 

Same here… though when I bought the kit it was 1500 on sale… at full price right now I’d save about the same, I think.

I’d ask them if I were you!

 

Question about the stage 2 Foam Pros (actually ordering stage 1 and getting that free UCA) and what springs I should go with based on my use-case.

Just put in an order for a truck camper (OVRLND) - which weighs about 275-300lbs dry. With things loaded in the truck bed - I figure about another 75-100lbs of gear, 2 60lbs dogs and 2 adults (350lbs) in the cab.

I assume I should be going with the constant load? As a DD the constant load will prob be 300lbs. Another thing I need to consider is the camper wont be done until 6 months later - so will it be okay for me to run a constant load spring setup without a camper until then? I could always throw some weight in the back driving around as well....

I will prob need to get this adjusted prob when the camper gets installed as well right or could I just simulate the 300lbs in the bed during install?

 

I would think that it would not be an issue but the ride might be a bit stiff without the extra weight. Some here have gotten the constant load leaf pack and removed a few leaves until they got the weight. That and a few people had like 5” of lift in the back from the packs…

I’d also recommend give them a call at IM they are usually more than happy to talk with people.

 

Thanks! Also - does $1,000 for the cost of labor + alignment sound reasonable for the install of the stage 2 kit? Just got a quote from a local installer.

 

it could be… that puts it at 100-125 per hour for 8 hours, depending what the normal charge for an alignment is. Most times TW peeps will recommend trying to install yourself or work with a buddy to install it. Though that’s not always possible. Honestly if the coils are assembled and you’re leaving the leaf packs built as is, it’s just removing and replacing items. No real special tools besides a torque wrench.

 

I recently put the FCPs on my truck and I have a (back ordered unfortunately) bumper on the way, so I went with the constant load in preparation for the winch and bumper even though they’re too stiff for my truck as it sits.

It’s clearly too stiff in the front but it still isn’t bad. It really doesn’t like small harsh bumps but otherwise it honestly still feels much better than stock. With your needs though I’d probably actually go performance load front/constant load rear unless you’re planning to add a bumper.

 

Someone had asked a question about this on my review thread and after seeing @jasmits1 response I looked again. IM lists 3 springs on the site for Tacoma’s. The performance 2.5,3 and constant load. For some reason I had thought the 2.5 and 3” were the same and the constant were different. I was wrong, they are all different, though the 2 performance both say 3” in the specs. I’ve no idea which I have since they only listed it as 2.5-3” when I bought mine a year ago and don’t have a box…. Maybe I can find the number on the spring…
Not sure if this will help but you can look at the rates and maybe figure out what’s going to be best for you.

edit- looked at a pic I took of them next to the old coils and the pn is shown. I have the performance ending with “B” spring.

 

Thanks for the advice! I never thought about doing separate front/back as I assumed it all had to be the same - but this makes more sense for me as the only major source of weight will be the camper in the back.

 

I have the constant load springs, and I can tell you it's not going to get much better. Theres a few more things I want to try before I give my full opinions, but with a 110lb bumper and 100lb winch, plus sliders if you want to count those, the front is still super stiff. And I believe I'm only at 2" of lift. I'm hoping more weight like skids will help, but I'm thinking probably not...

As a side note, does anybody have original hub to fender measurements? Ideally for a gen 2 double cab 4x4. Mine was sagging all around before I put the IM kit on.

 

Unfortunately I do not have hub to fender measurements. I'm a 2nd gen 4x4 as well but then again I replaced my old worn out camburgs/icons so wouldn't have been an accurate measurement anyhow.

I completed my install today. Took two days because I ended up changing out both my cv axel since my driver side inner boot was leaking worse than I thought and I figure might as well swap out the passenger side too. I should have taken a before/after picture but I didn't get any. I'll snap some pics here shortly.

 

Yeah, I had old saggy suspension as well, so I was atleast 1-2 inches under stock. I've heard stock was something close to 20" front 22" rear. If that's the case, I got about 2" over stock up front and only about 1" over stock in the rear with the only weight being a 100-150 lb shell. I can adjust the front, but I'll have to block the rear. I was scared of way to much lift and harshness with a load leaf pack, but that might have been the way to go.

 

Weird. I find it odd that you only got 1" of lift in the rear. Of course, those hub to fender numbers can vary for sure but 1"? Damn. I'm not sure where I'm sitting at but hopefully others that went from stock to stage two FCP can chime in.