Mid Travel BS 2.0

Idk what they’re asking but a JD or TC race +2 would be my go to or stock length TC or DK. Found out the hard way that even good companies don’t have their new products fully dialed right when they’re released.

 

Slightly confused at your label of this new kit being "mid travel." I guess there is really no clear definition between the two as far as numbers go, but are you basing this off the use of a stock length replacement shock? Is the shock travel how you identify each kit?

In that case, I would argue that they likely designed the kit with a different motion ratio and the shock is likely mounted inboard on the lower arm so they can net greater travel numbers without having to replace the shock with an 8". My concern would be the additional leverage applied to the shock would make valving for this kit vastly different from any other which is why they probably opted for a 2.5" bump on a slapper arm.

Either way, it's an interesting idea and exciting to see something new come to the market. Not for everyone but I definitely see this being for the "overland" market more than any other.

 

Here’s a video of it all mounted up. I’m still confused why that style of bump is beneficial


https://www.instagram.com/p/CRRYnSbBkyj/

 

Using a slapper arm allows the bump to contact the lower arm further out, therefore engaging much later in the travel. It's a solid concept and addresses why I personally don't like running bumps on these trucks up front but a 2.5" seems excessive for a Tacoma. I could be totally wrong though. I've not messed with the kit yet.

 

Ahhh, that makes sense. Pretty neat. I look forward to seeing travel numbers on this setup.

 

knowing the cost of my dual shock "mid travel" now.. I probably should have done TC +2 or 3.5, but I also dont have wide trails to run at high speed. Im happy with my purchases, even though the LCA was the craziest

 

Yup. You summed up what I was saying. They even said in the video “still mid travel.”

 

That "slapper arm", for the lower bump stop pivot mount, is there to prevent scraping across the strike pad (like most tradition set ups). With the lower bump mount following an arc AND having the upper and lower bump stop mounts on pivoting joints , allows the bump stop to move with the lower control arm exactly like a shock (having a motion ration with it too). No need to have a strike pad that gets worn out . It's not just for leverage because you can just mount the traditional "can" out further.

Also a 2.5" bump is not overkill for a truck weighing over 4,000lbs. For bumps mounted 1/2 up the lower arm , like most A arm LT "kits", there is a lot of leverage on them . They are acting more like a secondary shock in this type of application, so having all that extra oil and larger piston helps a lot.

If you really wanted to use a hydro bump at it's full potential or for "what it's intended for", then you would mount it up high off the engine cage and striking the upper arm at the uniball pivot (or very near the tire). less leverage . like this:

 

Wondered when the new Camburg kit would surface here. Knowing the wait time for shocks is crazy right now you could probably sell these if the stock (King/Fox) coilover valving works well with it and the pricing is reasonable. However their Raptor kit without slaps is $4995.00 and I don't see the Tacoma kit being significantly cheaper to produce. At 5k for arms, axle shafts and tie rods I would be ditching my oem fitment Kings and buying a jd kit with upgraded cv's for the same rough price though. Broverlanders may buy it but I think the cost is going to push people away from it and into other options.

 

Had they made a TC +2 / 3.5 Race equivalent and sold it for roughly the same price I think they would have had a bigger market.

 

This low rider wheels harder than most in here

 

If you could use air shocks to raise and lower single wheels that would change things a lot.

 

Apparently hydraulic coilovers are a thing.

http://opw.com.au/suspension/racejacker.html

https://www.instagram.com/p/B957qbmHH1I/

 

Hard with air shocks but doable with air cylinders. You can pressurize either side of the piston and pickup a wheel, they rode terrible though.

 

That dude spent enough on axles to buy a clean 1st gen.

4 wheel starting and portal hubs, I'll be in my bunk.

 

i follow this dude on insta "ramsayy" and they do hardcore snow wheeling. they use hydraulic shocks and 4 wheel steer. amazing setups.

 

So I'm switching to spring under axle with archive hammer hangers and deavers but as I'm cycling the suspension it feels like its binding slightly that last couple inches of droop travel where the shackles are about flat. Is this normal? Am I letting it droop too far? I had 3.6 shackles but it was worse like that so I extended them as much as could fit (4.25 ish) and its still doing it a little :/

 

Doesn't @ARCHIVE have a shackle specifically for SUA?

 

Yea I didn't order it with that one cause I didn't think I'd go sua but I changed my mind. Maybe they're different besides the length? They should be fine since I made em longer

 

Why wouldn't you just call me up and ask for assistance in figuring it out?