Marlin Crawler's New Rock Crawling Long Travel IFS Suspension System (#RCLT)

Thanks for the pics. This is with a +3.5?

 

That's with the 2.25 JD Fab that's been mentioned a few times in the thread.

 

There should be less camber than this at full stuff with RCLT because of the extra spindle length

 

Substantially less. He's using the OEM UCA attachment points, this setup uses a custom spindle and puts the UCA on the frame rail. It also removes the retreating caster gain in the OEM suspension to keep the tire off the firewall.

 

Thanks for the pics. What's the width on this kit?

 

That looks good. The hub is above the slider, and it looks like you moved the air intake, ABS pump, and headlights to make it fit? Plus some tubbing on the firewall to actually turn?

I'm curious what you did with that fucking relay/fuse box on the driver's side? Is there enough flex in the harness, or did you rewire it?

 

Damn! I think my fuse box is much smaller (2003, so fewer electronics) and I have about 2-3" of space to move my battery in, and some room to move it up. The airbox is gonna have to go, or at least the intake will have to be re-routed. Looking at these pics, I'm not sure if my 4th gen 4Runner is exactly the same as these Tacos. Either way, I appreciate all the input.

 

It's just enough different to cause headaches trying to compare the two...

Just stuff the battery in the back and get it out of the engine bay.

 

I need all the cargo space I can get... 2 kids, 2 dogs, gear, no pickup bed, and we like recreating far away from LA. Might end up being my limiting factor for uptravel if I can't relocate it to the rear passenger side of the engine bay. The cargo space is more important to me than that last bit of uptravel, you know, for family.

I'd rather sacrifice a little bit of uptravel for the reasons mentioned above. If the family isn't comfortable then I won't be camping/wheeling as often. I already lost some cargo space to the rear coilover towers and covers.

 

Yea, that's a good idea. I'm about due for a battery anyway.

 

I hear you, I wheel a DCLB to haul family and gear. If you're ditching the spare tire under the back of the truck there's a nice spot there to hide a battery and other stuff that can be exposed.

 

That's definitely a possibility. I'm gonna make a rear bumper in the next few weeks and hack off about 4-5 inches of the rear frame and move the crossmember forward. Maybe I can work a battery mount into the new crossmember. I was gonna put some water under there but I might re-think that depending on how things look up front.

 

Both?

Also, any build pictures of how you did the rear suspension and sealed up the towers?

 

Here is what I did on my 4R, should have enough clearance for 37 like this.

 

Curious what you do with the fuse box. I tubbed the front of the wheel wells on my 2019 and stopped at the fuse box since the wiring is so tight with not much room to move it around. 3rd gen fuse boxes are wayyyyyyyyyyy worse than the 2nd gens.

 

damn, I forgot you're getting rid of most (or all?) of the stock wiring.

 

Sure, here are some general suspension photos of the build:

1/2" shy of full stuff


Full droop


2" of droop left (left), 1/2" shy of full stuff (right)


3-link


Frenched in towers and frame plates


Notched crossmember (my level of commitment to uptravel)


Towers from the inside



Making the covers






Sealing the interior (it passed a smoke test)

 

Thanks for the pics. So no question about it I'm rebuilding the inner fender then?

 

Thanks man. I'm not a pro like you, but it's coming together OK for a home-brew garage franken-build.

 

I did mine initially as the core was exploding everywhere, but it needed to be done for long term tire upsizing anyway. The fuse box is definitely the limit without extending the wiring.