Suspension refresh - what to replace at 200k?

Hi,

Planning to refresh my front suspension and getting ready to order some parts. I had a blown shock on a road trip so I replaced the front shocks and springs with quick struts from Napa. I'm pretty sick of them at this point (about 25-30k with them) so looking to go back to stock springs and shocks. Truck is a 2003 with TRD package. Truck is used on 98% street and 2% beat up gravel roads. Going to replace front springs and front and rear shocks with OEM parts. Not interested in a lift kit. What else is a good bet to replace at this mileage? I believe everything except front springs and front and rear shocks are original. Hoping to get another 100k out of the truck without having to do too much with the suspension after this. Should my original leaf springs be replaced? Appreciate any ideas here. Thanks


chris

 

Ball joints especially if they’re original

 

Leaf pack is way long overdue at 200k.

Sway bar end links, sway bar bushings
Steering rack bushings
Tie rod ends
Lower ball joints
Upper ball joints
Upper control arm bushings
Lower control arm bushings
Carrier bearing
Body mount bushings

 

Is it cheaper/easier to replace the whole LCA rather than do the bushings and lower ball joints?

 

Front & rear wheel bearings
U-joints

 

The lower ball joints are easy to replace. The bushings on the other hand- if you have a press already, it's cheaper to replace them. If you don't have a press, then it's cheaper to replace the LCA (if it comes with pre installed bushings) (note, the LCA doesn't include the LBJ). That being said, if you have that whole list of work to refresh your suspension, it would be cheaper just between the front and rear wheel bearings to buy the press. Figure front and rear are $1000 apiece at a shop. The OEM parts are maybe $350-400 for front and rear, and a harbor freight 20-ton press is $200 (not on sale) + 250ish for press accessories. Either way, way cheaper do to it yourself even if you have to buy the tools (given that you have the space, time, and importantly patience to do such work).

 

You don't need a heavy-duty press to get the bushings out... I did all my control arm bushing using a LOT of heat (MAP torch) and then pressed them out with this simple press which can be rented at your local autozone

Heavy Duty 4 in 1 Ball Joint Press & U Joint Removal Tool Kit with 4x4 Adapters

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Joint-...=&hvlocphy=9030029&hvtargid=pla-1226255186041

The end of the press has a HEX head so you can put a socket in there. I would heat up the bushing as much as possible, put the press over it, impact at the end, few squeezes of the trigger, and bushing was out, really easy...

 

Sure, there are various methods to remove the control arm bushings- but in the context of the refresh list above, a ball joint press won't help with the wheel bearings.

 

True. I did rear axle seals on my brother's 4runner and I took both rear axles with the hubs attached to a machine shop to have them clean the axles and press new bearings in as well as ABS rings and the other misc stuff. It was only $110 for both axles. It was way worth it! Just cleaning in the parts cleaner was worth the price, them axles were so soaked in gear oil and dirty! I spent an hour trying to clean them with very little success...

 

The lower balljoints are a separate part from the control arm, and no, it is not cheaper to replace the entire control arm compared to just the bushings. I got my whole set of poly bushings for upper and lowers for like $40. It is easier and perhaps faster, but not cheaper.

This is why mechanic shops will often tell you that you need new control arms, because it's easier for them and also cheaper for them because YOU are buying he parts.

If you want to DIY the bushings, another option is energy suspension poly bushings. You burn/cut out the old rubber, leaving the outer sleeve installed in the LCA, then just plop in the new poly bushings. You have to be a little careful with the cam adjuster sleeve, but there are plenty of instructions online. It's easy.

 

That's true - there is the option to remove the parts and bring them to a machine shop- $110 for the rear seems reasonable. I was quoted $160-200 for the front. which if you're doing both still puts you in range of the press. And I much rather do the work myself, including cleaning everything. I know I have the time to spend to ensure the components are clean, and functioning properly as opposed to a shop which is likely working to a quoted time, and if they have to jam everything back together and not, say clean and paint the front dust shield to make good on the quote.

 

Thanks for the suggestions so far. Going to work on my list today.

chris

 

I am about to do my tie rod ends on my truck. I plan to go OEM--what does this entail outside of the tie rods ends themselves? I already did the lower ball joints, but could not get the truck to align--the shop recommended getting the tie rod ends done. Trying to save money by buying the OEM parts online instead of paying local dealership prices. Thanks!

 

I had issues not being able to achieve proper alignment; issue was with my LCA bushings.

 

As far as replacing the outer tie rods, this video describes the process pretty well:
https://youtu.be/--HcOQlv03U

You may need to make sure you have larger size wrenches on hand for the outers.. The jamb nut is 25, 27, or 28, or something along those lines.

The video covers the inner tie rods too, but in your case, hopefully, you can just inspect those for play.

Edit: one of my outers was rather seized, which made counting the rotations out nearly impossible, so I'd also suggest taking a secondary measurement. Maybe as simple as the length of exposed threads. At that point, you'd be able to get to a shop safely and let them sort it out.

 

Thank you for the help, guys. Parts ordered and I will go from there.