2016 Toyota Tacoma Flasher Relay Location?

I am trying to locate the flasher relay for my 2016 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab. I think I may have burned it out or shorted it using cheap Chinese LED bulbs in my blinkers. So now my blinkers and hazards do not work at all. My horn does work though and I have checked all fuses both under the hood and drivers side panel and everything seems to have checked out so far. So any help or input regarding this problem would be greatly appreciated.

 

The flasher relay is built into the gauge cluster

 

Alright that makes sense because my instrument/gauge cluster also does not work. You wouldn't happen to know if there is also a fuse located back there??? Or even how to remove the instrument/gauge cluster???

 

Did you ever find a resolution for this? I think I have also burned out my flasher relay on my 2016. Blinkers are flashing once, then they stop working all together. Same issue with my 4-ways. Had a trailer connected via the 7-pin connector and the trailer brakes locked up, think I fried something with a bad connection with the trailer on. Checked all grounds, checked my fuses, checked my battery, and all bulbs and the only thing I can think of is the flasher relay.

Did you manage to source a relay? Did you have to buy a full gauge cluster? My gauge cluster is working 100% so not the exact same issue as you.

 

Thread is 5 yrs old and OP hasn't been here since then.

 

I am not sure if this is any help, but when the turn signal circuits are overloaded, they will do exactly that. Are you running regular halogens or LEDs? If you are running LEDs, do you have resistors? Like I said, not sure if that is the issue, but it might be a start. I've overloaded a few turn signal circuits, and correcting the load has always returned them to normal.

 

Pretty sure that everything your asking about is controlled by the Main Body ECU located just above the driver side kick panel. TAIL fuses can be found there. There is also a TRAILER relay located in the fuse box under the hood. If the problem isn't corrected by removing the load OR you have no blown fuses / bad relay, you may have damaged the MBECU.

 

No LEDs or anything, completely stock truck.

 

I have checked the TAIL fuses in the kick panel and they appear to be okay. Didn't think to check the trailer relay, as the issue is present with or without a trailer connected.

It's odd because when the key is out of the iginition, and I turn on the 4-way flashers, I can see the indicators in the dash flashing and hear the relay "flashing" on and off, but the lights on the outside of the truck do not work.

If I leave the 4-way flashers on, and insert the key, I can no longer see anything flashing on the dash, and the clicking stops.

How would I go about diagnosing the MBECU? Is this something I can just pull out and have a look at to see if it's blown? Or just something I would have to replace?

 

Unfortunately there is no user friendly method that I'm aware of to diagnose a bad MBECU. And they are rather expensive to replace. The MBECU is the box (inside) with the fuses on it.

My only suggestion would be to acquire a decent Digital Multi Meter and get friendly with it. I would start by measuring the voltage at the turn signal lamps (with the signal supposedly flashing). I would follow that up with a continuity test on the tail light circuit starting at the correct terminal at the MBECU and completing the circuit at the other end (at the tail light socket).

 

I've been looking online and can't seem to find much information on the MBECU. I found this video here that looks like this person is removing the ECU, but doesn't seem to be in the same location as you describe.

I have also found this thread as well as this thread which seem to point to the same location as you are describing, although unsure is the 'BCU', or Body conrtol module is the same as the one you're talking about. I was in poking around there last weekend and noticed some black boxes and I tested some relays in the area, thinking this might be the right location. A user in one of the threads I linked above said they just swapped the main board in the BCU and fixed his issues. Maybe I can have a look at the board and see if I can see a popped resistor or something along those lines. Do you know of any documentation online that would point me to the exact location of the MBECU, or are there markings on the part that tell me exactly what it is? Or should I just start hauling s*** out from under the dash in the hopes I find what I'm looking for?

Perhaps this is the part I am looking for?

As for the cost, I pretty much have no choice now but to diagnose my problem and fix it, I've been flipped off a couple of times now for not using my indicators, and it's a bit dangerous driving around with no indicators. If I can for sure verify that the MBECU is where the problem lies, I don't mind replacing it. No warranty remaining and electrical problems lead to high cost of repairs from the dealership anyways. Some reading has told me that it may have to be flashed anyways, but it would lower my cost of a trip to the dealership. I do have a higher-than-moderate repair skill, and have should be able to source the parts from a scrap yard fairly easily, so hoping to do this fix on my own if possible.

And again thanks for all the help, you've given me a little more confidence that I may be able to do this repair myself. and I do apologise for my ingornance on the subject, just trying to make sure I do this all correctly as electrical problems aren't really my forte!

 

So I have tested with a multimeter at the tail lights, and it appears as though the first flash is correct and turns on the lights, but the voltage is too weak at the second flash to turn on the lights. Then once the indicator switch at the steering wheel is turned off, the voltage almost needs some time to 'recharge' itself (about 30 to 60 seconds) then the indicators have enough voltage to ignite the indicator light again, but they only flash once.

 

Sounds more and more like a MBECU problem to me. As for opening up the controller and working directly on the electronics (above my skill level)?

I seem to have lost my drawings for the MBECU. I have some of them posted in this thread if you want to take a look.
Brake Light Mod? | Tacoma World

The only other thing I would do is attempt to check the continuity of the circuit. This would tell you that the wire isn't broken between the MBECU ant the bulb holder.
I would also check continuity between the bulb holder and GROUND (just to be thorough).

 

Above my skill level as well. I have a family member who is a fairly compentent electrical engineer, so perhaps a phone call will come in handy at some point

I will start with the continuity tests and see what results that gives me, hopefully I will be back with an update eventually!

Thanks once again for your help!

 

If @caribe makaira isnt busy, he might be able to hook you up with location and Circuit drawings for testing.

 

The test and info already presented is enough to conclude that the hazard/turn relay is AFU. You'll need a new Combination Meter since the relay is an integral part of the Combination Meter and not a replaceable part like other Generations.

 

I have to admit I'm a little sketchy on this part.

Main Body ECU or Combination Meter?

The MBECU does the work and the CM contains the logic?

 

Are you saying the flasher relay could be burned out? That was my original thought as well. All of my current diagnostics and discussion with other people have pointed me towards the flasher relay as being the cause. I am not having any other issues with my dash or instrument cluster all the same. If the flasher relay is really that important to the entire gauge cluster, then wouldn't I see other issues with my speedo\tach etc?

 

Important, no. Just that is part of the PCB of the Combination Meter and doesn't unplug to install a new one.

 

May be a little more difficult for me to source one of those where I am located. Is there any way for me to diagnose or confirm that a new Combination Meter will fix my issue before I spend the money on the part? Do you know if that will have to be flashed or programmed to my VIN or specific to my vechicle? Or is it just as simple as sourcing the part, and unplugging the old Combination Meter and replacing it with a "new" one?