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24 inch is on the small side which is fine if it’s for home use. It’ll take a bit more time on sight if you’re planning to use it for commercial snow clearing…which is also fine if you bill by the hour and not by the job. Lol

My inherited Troy Bilt is a 24 inch, and I prefer it over my 31 inch Toro. Easier to maneuver. Don’t feel beat up after using it.

 

And this is one reason why I think I want smaller. I run my 30”er and man do I feel it when I’m done

 

One of my machines ($100) is a MTD 24" 2 stage with a 10HP engine.
Doesn't clear a wide swath but with good snow you really can send it.
$15 carburetor from Amazon got it running.

 

Not so. I store mine in an unheated garage. The tracks are fine with snow or ice. Same with the augers.

It’s the chute that can freeze up. I have an old hair dryer that quickly frees it up if needed.

I use a natural fiber broom to clean it up after every use and like I said, it’s been bulletproof.

Also, the wider you go, the more ornery it gets especially if the surface is uneven.

 

You my friend, are a SMART shopper -- looking for a used snowblower in July. I once bought an antique Pot bely stove at a 4th of July auction sale for 5 bucks . Used it a couple of years - cleaned it up a bit and sold it for $275.00. As I recall it was about 95F that day and the ambulance had to come and treat people for heat stroke twice that day. I would watch people walk by that stove and just "growl" thinking about more heat.
Somebody near you is thinking about needing more garage space-good luck in your search! Post an ad on Craigslist for wanting a used snowblower and see if you get any response.

 

Anybody have any idea what this thing is? Hay rake maybe? Pulled it out of the marsh area in front of my house. I knew it was in there, but the girlfriend just noticed it in the spring when we were out there with the dogs while it was still frozen. I was hoping she'd never notice it.

 

I think it's a small sulky rake, missing the wheels and seat. And the tines are bent to hell and back.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=sulky+rake

 

I think you're right. The property I'm on use to be part of a tourist camp years ago before it was subdivided into building lots. I'm where the owners cabin, store, and baseball diamond use to be. The next lot over has a 22 acre field that use to be hayed. This rake was probably used in the field, then dragged into the 'swamp' when the camp shut down.

 

Getting up-front and personal.
Like and subscribe.

https://youtu.be/0Wsxwwc--Zg

 

Stupid question for Kubota owners who bought new-

I finally bit the bullet and got a zero turn. The dealer gave me a printed out Owners Manual with the individual pages binder clipped together.

I see Kubota offers them online but I am wondering if I’d get the same thing or a real manual. Anyone know?

Found a free pdf version. That and Cntl F is all I need . Thanks anyway!

BTW, the thing’s a beast, looking forward to building proficiency .

Obligatory pic (pardon the condition of my garage - many projects competing for my two hands. Hence the need for the zero-turn :

 

yes, it does. I don't think it is clogged but who knows? How can I check for that?.Bypass valve is clean as well

but tell me.. we use regular hy-guard ... could it be possible it is the wrong type of oil? Maybe it needs low-viscosity hy-guard instead? The machine does not work in the cold, so that's why we went for this but apparently, some machines run better on low-vis no matter the ambient temperature

and now I am starting to think I may have cavitation issues (causes overheating and shaky hydraulics as well)

 

Are the fins clean on the cooler? I had a John Deere tractor that ran hot, the radiator was packed with dust that had turned to hard mud. Cleaned it and it ran a lot cooler. Just a suggestion

 

No it's all clean. Though it was full of oil when I removed it to check it, so it must not be clogged...

Next time I use the tractor, I think I will bring an infrared thermometer and check for any hotspots on the hydraulics that may give me a clue as to what is going on... because I am stumped, really.

And I really want to fix this problem before it causes damage because if it does, well, it will suck pretty bad...

 

See you found what you needed, but this is what came with my BX. It was in the document compartment on the backside of the operators seat. Big bound bible of do's, don'ts, should's, shall's, and must's.

 

Excellent. Thanks a bunch @Bushed

 

No worries! Your post just had me wondering if your dealer was stockpiling the actual manuals to sell online or something to make a few extra bucks. Lol

 

Yeah. I thought it was pretty bush league (no offense) not to get a real manual but being mid season with inventories low, I want to get something now.

Thanks for the pics. They convince me to splurge on the printed manual for $13.50 w free shipping. I'll hang the maintenance section of paper version with my other maintenance tasks to keep up with what's required.

Good stuff. Thanks again.

 

Right! I find paper preferable when I'm actually out in the shop working on my stuff. I'd rather have an oily finger smudge on the bottom corner of a book page, than try to get the print reader to recognize my dirty fingers, and leaving smudges all over the screen of my ipad while searching for the torque specs of a drain bolt.

 

I don't have a recommendation per say, but if you come across one of these RUN!



Troy Built 24" with the 8HP Tecumseh. While the engine is decent (despite a bad cam...) the rest of it is "junk". The plastic chute likes to get jammed and not turn, also if the snow has any amount of moisture in it, forget it, grab your shovel... Also pretty cumbersome to maneuver....

 

Lol thanks!