Check engine after cold air intake install

So this guy gave you the only useful information in this thread (sorry you're having to deal with all the trolls). As stated, if your new filter requires oil, some of the oil has a tenancy to attach to the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor). There are spray cleaners to clean MAF's. After checking the codes and it points to something with the MAF... the best thing to do is pull the EFI fuse or just simply unhook the battery, take out the MAF and spray it down. Let it dry for a few minutes, let the ECU reset (leave the fuse or battery unplugged for about 15 min.), then install the MAF, re-install the fuse/battery cable, then see if the check engine light comes back on. Might not be a bad idea to pull the filter and pat it down with a towel as well in case there was too much oil that came on it from the vendor.

Of course, you should check all of the other obvious things making sure the hoses are all connected correctly. I believe from the air intake there's like one, maybe two that needed to be re-installed. Intake installations are pretty straightforward and 9/10 the check engine light comes on from the oil on the filter mucking up the MAF. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

They do not. There is an elbow that pulls some cooler air from the fender but it's not sealed off from also pulling hot air from the engine bay. A CAI like the TRD version come with a rubber seal that seals that fender intake hole making it more of a true CAI.

 

What? Tacoma’s factory cold air intake gets its cold air from the inside of the fender. The air flow accelerator tube that you are speaking of, “accelerates” the air.

99.9% of vehicles comes with cold air intakes stock.

 

So that air flow accelerator does two things... it removes the stock elbow making the air flow path straight (no restriction with the elbow) and much more importantly, it seals the intake to the fender opening. The stock factory air intake is NOT cold air. That elbow is not sealed and it still pulls a mix of fender cooler air and hot air from the engine bay. You can pull your stock air box out and see exactly what I'm talking about. The main question is, how much performance/HP gain does a cold air intake provide... there seems to be plenty of arguments and no one wanting to spend the money or time doing a dyno before and after so.... we continue to argue and troll.

 

If you actually search around in this forum there is a thread where a guy did a dyno with the stock setup, no filter at all, and aftermarket stuff and they were all the same.

 

Check to make sure that you didn't install the MAF backwards.

 

I actually installed a “poor mans trd intake” so I’m fully aware on what’s happening down there. The stock tube/elbow is sealed against the fender, that’s why you see the weatherstripping around it. Stock intake is definitely a cold air. That lip in that “elbow” is to prevent mud from getting into the intake.

I don’t know any vehicle that does not come with cold air intake stock. Do you know any?

 

The majority of the time on this forum you don't get useful info its just a bunch of dumb asses trying to be funny or act like they are better than everyone. Some people will help but it seems ones with high message count are usually the ones who just think they are funny and useless.
Rough country from what I have seen usually makes pretty cheap stuff. I just put the K&N intake tube to delete the resonators on mine and kept the factory box. Havnt had any issues. I would just double-check all fittings for leaks, tears or cracks in the tube

 

A Tesla? I think you're right tho - all modern vehicles have a CAI stock

Being serious, my money is on dirty MAF or air leak. Pretty easy fixes either way.

 

I figured the guy suffered enough . Nice avatar btw.

 

Yep, they sure do. Here is my Chevy express stock cold air intake.

I didn’t even know rough country makes intakes. I question their quality.

 

When I installed my TRD intake, that weatherstripping was definitely not tight at all and wasn't sealing any air to and from the fender. It more acted as a way to keep the elbow from bouncing around in that hole. I think the folks who engineered the TRD intake, especially that flow accelerator part, intended to delete the elbow and make a proper seal.

To your question... I've only ever owned three vehicles in my life, a 1980 Toyota pickup with a carb (totally different air setup), a 2000 Tacoma and my 2017 TRD Pro, both of which had this type of elbow and that weather stripping that did not seal anything (especially on my 2000 Taco... after a few years, I think it was partially ripped off). So, I don't think I can answer your question at all based on my limited runs with vehicles. I think manufactures make a half way decent attempt at getting cooler air into the intake but they're going to cut corners and cut costs. Aftermarket intakes will include better parts to make an intake that does a better job isolating that cold air... as can be seen with the poor mans TRD intake and the full kit.

To whoever stated that there's some dude who did the dyno tests, please post the link if you find it! I haven't seen this post yet.

 

I never put much thought into it but even my 30 year old car has Factory CAl, filter sits on the side and it draws air from behind the tire.

 

Dude... not trying to hijack this guys thread but... do you still own that 1980ish truck? Aside from mine being a rust bucket, it was a tank. That 20R engine with the dual timing chains... Toyota wasn't messing around when they built that engine. No power but it was ridiculously reliable.

 

Looking at the Rough Country website, it doesn't outright say if it's an oiled air filter or not, but it sure looks like it. MAFs don't like oil, so that might be it. MAF backwards? Try checking your electrical and tubing connections for leaks. Run the check engine light code and see what it says, that will help diagnose.

To be totally honest, the cold air intakes for most vehicles is a waste of time, and I've installed multiple brands and multiple vehicles when I worked for a shop. That's an easy way for OE manufacturers to make power, so they typically are not a source for the aftermarket to gain any power, and can actually hurt performance. The aftermarket ones sound louder, but any gain is actually from a clean filter.

My opinion....go back to the original system, it'll will last you forever and never give you any problems. Just replace the filter with every other oil change, and you'll be golden. Don't use an oil filter, it's too easy to over oil and ruin your MAF.

 

When you clean the MAF, please be sure to use MAF cleaner.

Do not use carb or brake or acetone or simple green.......ONLY USE MAF cleaner. Available just about anywhere that sells stuff for cars, trucks, motorcycles......

 

Interesting. The stock elbow on my taco was nice and tight against the inner fender.

I’ve had 1990 mazda b2200, 1990 camaro, 1991 civic si, 2006 accord, 2007 mazda b4000, they all had stock cold air intakes. My work van also has a stock cold air intake.

I did replace the intake on my b4000 to K&N “warm air” intake and it made a pretty big difference in throttle response and torque at lower rpms, go figure. The stock tube that was sucking in air from behind the headlight was tiny.

I noticed no difference in performance with my poor mans trd intake. Maybe a bit better throttle response and an awesome sound. Tacos intake is the same intake as in the 5.7L from the tundra.


My work vans stock cold air.

 

I’ve ran oiled filters in multiple vehicles over the years and had absolutely zero issues with the MAFs. Not sure why some folks are having issues.

 

Agreed (same here)... just need to apply the right amount of oil and then dab out the excess. Follow the instructions, etc...

 

Yep. I even never dabbed out the excess, I just oiled the filter and left it overnight. Had oiled filter in my previous truck for like 6 years, zero issues. Engine ran like new at 165k miles, even this one mechanic commented on how smooth the engine is, haha.