Fog lights and light bar not working

The OEM relay is what is used to trigger your aftermarket relay. Not very likely to have it fail but should be ruled out.

As mentioned above, bust practice is to use a multi-meter and trace the problem back from the light.

 

Also, replace that ugly switch with one from ch4x4 or aob. I believe it’s a tall size rather than the smalls on our third gens.

 

have any links for a 2ng gen switch of better quality?

 

I like AOB new blue but finding those in fog in tall didn’t hit for me off 5s of looking.

Green in tall looks good though

https://www.aironboard.com/online/push-switch-817ng-12volt-toyota-oem-fog-lights.html

Ditch lights should be at least as easy.

Check ch4x4 too.

 

Have you run the light directly to the +/- terminals on battery to confirm that they are not the issue?

 

Like the battery terminal. Were did you get it at?

 

I just did a test in the old light… it was bad!
Installed it and it still doesn’t work…
Replaced the fuse traced the wires.
I bench tested the relay.
Last thing I have to swap out is the switch.

 

If the light was bad how would installing it fix that? If they don't light up when wired directly to the battery no fuse/relay/switch is going to fix it.

 

I tested the old light bar on a portable charger, it did not work. I used the same charger on the new light bar and it worked.
that test was independent of the wire harness. So it stood a chance of being the culprit for the entire circuit not working right?
I’m not sure I understand your question…

 

@axeman26, I assumed you were working with the old broken light bar, didn't realize that you had one that was new and you confirmed was functional. Have you checked the ground?

 

No I have not checked the ground. I am using the same ground that the stock wire harness for the engine is running off of. I’m not sure how to test a ground…?

 

Do you have a DMM (Digital Multimeter) and know how to use it to check resistance?

 

Nope. Sounds like I need one though. I do have one at work that I can use.

 

Does anyone know what size thread and diameter bolt is used for the stock wire harness grounding to the body in the engine bay?

also how do I go from this switch to the new one?

 

Not sure which bolt you're talking about specifically but I'd just take the one you have out and measure it or bring to a hardware store. As for how to put the new switch in, I'd solder and use a quality heat shrink, crimp if you don't like to solder but it won't be near as good of a connection.

 

Oh, shoot, sorry, I missed this before.

@kmorgan3 do you have any idea on switch illumination for 2nd gen? I'm guessing no.

OP, you should use a DMM to confirm but decent money on black as ground, red as +12v and the white wire as your switched output. On the replacement switch the red and green are where you connect the switch, doesn't really matter if you get polarity wrong but if you want the icon to light up when it's switched on you need to get that right. Those colors look like ch4x4 to me, their wiring diagram is here. The other pair of red and black is for switch illumination (when your parking lights are on). One easy way is to tie all 3 reds together, black to black, and green to white but that means the switch will always be illuminated even without parking lights on. You can get sexier if you have a tap for switch illumination, then you'll match the OEM switches and dash lights. Even better if you get dimmed ground going so the switch will dim with the others.

A DMM is your friend here, be wary of sending power to ground through the switch as that will (best case) pop a fuse or (worst case) do some damage.

Ideally you fuse every circuit near the source (positive battery terminal, fuse block, etc).

 

Yeah here’s my second gen thread. I might have some extra connectors sitting around. If not I am due to order some this week.

 

thanks guys. I wired up a new switch(as recommended), changed location for ground... no change.

I spliced a new positive connector and slightly larger wire to the original harness in order to extend the exit=sting wire harness so that it reached the positive battery terminal.... do you think this would cause a loss in voltage and therefore disrupt the circuit??

 

Not if you did it properly.