Custom vehicle harnesses made to order

You already sent me the side marker connectors. You got them shipped out the same day I requested a set.

 

Yeah, I just discovered that after packing up another set and starting to ship to you. Forgot to mark it down as sent, I guess I was a bit rushed trying to get everything out the door before my trip. Thanks for confirming, sorry such a spaz over here

 

@Jeff Dartfrog your order is ready, please drive forward to the next window.

 

Excellent!!

 

Latest TODO:

At bat:

1. Re-supply on DIR and non-rapture headlight harnesses -- First priority as I'm down to 2 in stock

On deck:

1. Custom DIR for @caribe makaira
2. Double DRL + LED light harness for @Zumozuzu7 -- about to give up hope of 24 position GEP
3. H4 Headlight harness for @Shadowhunter -- no excuses

In the hole:

1. Bed light relay harness for @JDSmith -- Ordered 12 gauge, waiting on delivery
2. Help / build puddle T from overhead console T for @2020SilverSky off @kmorgan3 ’s starter T
3. Brake tap to Deutsch flange for @Afilao
4. Bed light v2 with @Khoadattran -- need time to organize this project
5. Funzie H4 + horns for @Empty_Lord and me -- stalling on hopes of 24 position GEP by EOY

 

Almost done with my DIR batch. Once That is complete I think I’m going to prioritize the harness for @JDSmith as it’s straightforward and he has been waiting a bit. Then move on to finishing @Zumozuzu7 ’s dual harness as he has waited an eternity. Those are two I feel extra guilty about all the delays.

 

@JDSmith I got yours done tonight. Foolishly thought it would be quick and easy and it turned into 3 hours. DM me an address to ship to, please.

There is a lot going on so I’ll try to explain.

At the far left you have 22 feet of 2 conductor 12 gauge in a coil. This runs the length of the truck, from battery to taillight.

On the far right you have your output coils, two leads of 2 conductor 16 gauge.

Up high in the middle is some heat shrink and solderless butt connectors to attach the lights you want to wire to the 16 gauge feeds. You're on your own at that point but it's just power/ground.

The braided sleeving harness portion at the tippy top attaches to the 22 feet cable to provide power and ground. One end goes to a nice clean ground somewhere, perhaps the battery ground location, and the other feeds a fuse currently spec'd at 15amps and then to another ring terminal which goes on your battery post. In hindsight I should have used red heat shrink on that last bit so you can tell them apart because otherwise they look similar. Hopefully you can figure out which is fused and which isn't. Hint, battery post should feed to the fuse.

Last there is the bed light T-tap feeding the relay trigger and the relay itself. The yellow wire is just for fun, to indicate switched output. And also because I have no remaining 12 gauge black or red at this point (I put a note on my shopping list.)

I think there are ways to simplify this configuration as I used more connectors than I'd like to for something which really should be more straightforward. @Puppypunter may have suggestions for improvement on that aspect.

You're on your own for zip ties on this one, you'll need a bundle of them so I'm not going to micro-manage that part for you.

@Zumozuzu7 I am back to yours on Thursday night (tomorrow is date night). I learned a bit doing this one which I think may be broadly applicable to yours and I do have a good chunk of it built but I think I'm going to redo some portions of it, use the newer style fuse holders, etc.

 

After @Zumozuzu7 's stuff is done I think I'll try to crank out @Shadowhunter 's and then probably @Khoadattran and wrap up with some custom DIR for @caribe makaira but who knows, sometimes I think I'm going to do x and I end up doing y because :shrug:?

 

Must be the water from Tijuana...

 

@Puppypunter not sure if I already asked this, but wanted to see how and when I could get this started. No rush just curious.

 

Man that looks incredible! Thank you!

 

OK, @Zumozuzu7 , I managed to make some progress with yours tonight.

I set aside the GEP for now and converted to full size relays. Funny thing is that I’m running very low on the darn relays and of course they are OOS. Grrr…. I’m contemplating a qty 400 order on those just to not think about supply ever again.

First, the inputs:

Two green switches fed from a cargo connector T which then feed to the engine bay as pink and orange negative switched leads. Hope you aren’t color blind because I picked two similar colors here, ooops.



Also a DRL t tap and diodes to combine DRL and parking light.


Here are the 4 main relays. I could have used a GEP for the DRL relays instead now that I think about it, they are lower power and then I could have stuffed the fuse in there. Instead I opted for symmetry on all 4 relays instead of mixing types. It will be up to you to figure out how to mount them unless I come up with a good plan ahead of time. Aluminum flat bar could get it done.


Note the instructions telling you which line runs into the cab


You’ll feed it through the firewall then push the terminals into the connector and squeeze to lock the TPA. This is the only part which you can mess up. Really as long as you don’t force it, you should be able to figure it out. But you’ll be working inside the truck. Do not assemble before this is run through the firewall or you’re stuck shoving a big piece of plastic through.


Below is power and ground for the system


Supplied via ring terminals


Fused at 35 amps for the system.

Last is the splitter for your ditch lights. Input is a 3 pin weatherpack and output is two 3 pin Deutsch males.


Remaining work:

1. Marry up incoming power to the relays. That means 10 gauge to 2x12 gauge. I’m not sure how best to do that yet. Maybe I’ll use a 6 position and two 3 gang common bars, though it might be better to split with independent fuses.
   
2. Marry up relay outputs. One pair of relays will feed the ditch lights and another the scoop light. I think it might be time to send me the scoop light harness so I can cannabolize that round connector.
   
3. Add relays, relay connector TPA’s and finish heat shrink.

 

35 amps? You should've split the juice. Battery-relays- a fuse to each lamp, like OEM headlights. If left goes out, right continues. Ground from relay coil to cab switches, to ground.

 

The fuse I have right now is a “close to battery” fuse so it’s for the overall load.

With 4 full size skirted relays to mount, we might need to be creative about mounting location.

However, the DRL draw is assumed low and each circuit works as a pair of relays with 87A from the LED feeding the DRL to ensure only one can be on at a time. Hence it’s only a question of 2 fuses to protect 2 circuits.

I could also redesign what I have with two independent power and ground harnesses from 12 gauge. Possibly with just one ring on pairs of wires.

I think I will order up some red and black 12 gauge.

 

Status update:

Done:

• Bed light harness for @JDSmith
• Brake tap deutsch flange for @Afilao
• DIR resupply -- effectively complete (just need to box up)

In Progress:

• Harness heaven for @Zumozuzu7 waiting on more relays and 12 gauge wire but nearing completion

Next in line:

• Custom DIR for @caribe makaira nearing the starting line
• H4 headlight harness for @Shadowhunter -- bare beginnings but long delayed, potential start next week
• Bed light setup for @Khoadattran
• Tundra headlight harness x 2 for @Empty_Lord and yours truly

 

You’ve got a nice template for setting up that harness now. Make it fit really nice and relays mount to a factory hole and you’ve got a certifiably awesome harness on your hands (again for the horns just leave me some wires extra long… I have to find homes for the horns and wire routing.) zero rush as usual

 

Don’t know if you want to attempt arrival lights with a controller (I have to find the link. But someone sent me a piece that would work wonderfully)

 

In the immortal words of Freddy Mercury, I want it all!

Gotta get my hands on some caddy horns at some point so I can be twinsies. First, parts orders.

 

http://www.wolstentech.com/products/timedelayrelay/app10.php

this bad boy combine with the keyless entry and some lights under the mirrors would be sweet.. one day I’ll do it lol

 

So we just ditch our OEM keyless entry stuff and use that? Price seems fine. I might be able to do a T harness for the door connector once I take that open again and look it over.