TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Does this help?

 

That would def make it simpler.

 

So are you using the Lingenfelter controller alongside with the autocoolguy rig?

 

I was wondering that. if so that would be a nice add-on if it worked. I thought before I saw that the two operate differently though.

 

The alternative is of course just plugging in the white wire and letting the fan run 100 while the AC is on. The alternator would probably not be a very happy camper unless it was an upgraded one though.

 

Here is what they look like installed.

 

I have the flex a lite with a Derale PWM controller. It works pretty well but does not cover the whole radiator as noted. I havent had an issue on normal driving in traffic but the temps gradually climb when in the mountains and I get stuck driving behind slow cars. Maybe one day when I'm not so lazy I will get a sheet of metal to make the actual shroud but seems like there's more options now than 2 years ago when I bought it. There's also stronger fans. I think this one flows about 3300 cfm.

 

No, I have the Autocool guy controller with a timer relay (Ice Box) from auto Cool guy.

 

I'm talking with a guy about making a custom shroud for the Camaro SPAL fan but he also has setups using non-OEM SPAL fans. Fan and Shroud setups are $240ish (minus overflow etc) or $120 for the shroud itself. If it works out could be a nice option for full coverage.

 

On my Ranger with 5.0L conversion, I ran a Flex Fan with a semi-custom shroud.

I found a "kit" at Summit Racing. The kits are fixed height to match your radiator. The shroud is 2 pieces, divided vertically. The pieces are wider than you need, allowing you to cut to the exact width you need. Of course, you need to cut a hole for the fan as well.

Then, weld it up.

It was easy to do, and worked great.

 

I'll try and find the wiring diagram for it that I have. Should allow for it to be used.....maybe.....

 

That is my main hang up with the Lingenfelter controller. With a fan this power hungry, we need a way to keep it from going full beans when the A/C is on. If only they made the duty cycle adjustable for when the white wire is triggered.

After thinking about it, one way to do it would be to figure out what is the max duty cycle you’d want the fan to run at without A/C. Say you want the fan to run at 70% when the truck hits 200F. Then you measure the resistance that the temp sensor is when it’s at 200F or whatever. Then use the IceBox to trigger a relay that substitutes that resistance into the Lingenfelter sensor input when the A/C is on.

So say on a hot day you do a cold start and want the A/C on. When you turn the A/C on it triggers a relay to make the Lingenfelter think the engine is hot so it will ramp up the fans to say 70% duty cycle or whatever you set it at.

I’m weird, I know.

 

Weird? No way.... Methodical, analytical, and practical? Totally and I've always valued your contributions to this thread/forum.

.....oh, and comical too! (Hookers & blow FTW)

 

now were talking I was thinking along those lines but had no way to articulate that. well done. Now whos going to give it a go.

 

I hear what you're saying. That sounds like it would work great. Now that trigger relay, how is it outputting the lower percentage output to the Lingenfelter box? An inline resistor? If you have a chance, draw up a diagram (even if it crude) of what you are proposing and I'd be happy to attempt to rig something like that up.

I feel like proper AC control and adjustability of that control is what is keeping the Lingenfelter module from being complete.

 

In this scenario, you wouldn’t actually be using the white wire. This would mean that the white wire could still be available to be used to go 100% if you wanted to for emergency purposes.

On the Lingenfelter, the duty cycle is adjustable for temperature. So you can set a max duty cycle, but only based on temp. So you’d set that as say 70% as an example. Then you figure out what the temp sensor resistance is at say 200F, probably something like x megaohms. Just say 50 megaohms for illustrative purposes.

A/C MG Clutch Relay outputs 12v (+)


So you’d use two standard SPDT automotive relays.

Terminal 85 to ground
Terminal 86 to the MG Clutch relay
Terminal 30 to the temp input of the Lingenfelter
Terminal 87a to one side of the temp sensor
Terminal 87 to one side of the 50 megaohm resistor
The other side of the 50 megaohm resistor to ground

EDIT: in the above it may require two relays. One for each wire of the temp sensor. Then instead of the 50 megaohm going to ground it would go to 87 on the second relay. I’ll draw it on paper later to help illustrate.

I’m not 100% sure on the resistor connection Id need to get in there and do some testing, but this would allow the Lingenfelter to get the actual temp when the relay is not energized, and then get the fake 200F when the relay is energized.

In this setup, you’d still want something like the Autocoolguy IceBox to stretch pulses of the MG Clutch to make it a constant instead of a pulse. So that the Lingenfelter doesn’t see the temp go back and fourth every time the compressor cycles.

 

I also found this “Poor man’s Lingenfelter” last night and ordered one to play with.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143561646769?

If you look at the last two pics in the auction, it has the instruction pages posted. It actually looks like a very nice little module for $50.

 

This is the wiring diagram I was thinking of, where the autocoolguy controller would be added in the SW1 location. Maybe you tried this? Or maybe the fan you have is different…


link:https://www.spalautomotive.it/docum...ODES.pdf/dacb5d25-7e78-48de-bbc5-b7cfc4486ddb

 

I have that one. I tried it and couldn't get it to work right with the fan I have. You can have it for testing if you want.