TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Yes, the Camaro fan is different. It only has 3 wires. Terminal A is not present. The fan is sealed and the circuitry is dipped in a block of epoxy. The terminal is probably there, but I literally destroyed a $300 fan trying to get at it! I took one for the team!

 

I have one inbound already. The seller says it will work with the Camaro fan I just have to select the correct mode.

 

I had a bmw fan. I went through 2 solid state relays to make a brushed fan work with it. So I scrapped that plan. I will come up with another.

 

Just the fact we need to do all this for proper AC activation using the Lingenfelter box is insulting. For a company that prides itself on building "fine, OE drop in aftermarket solutions" they sure overlooked a very important element in this situation.

Your sketch looks simple enough. As for tapping into the Lingenfelter box and the temp sensor. What are you doing to tap in there? Solder splicing, or...?

If we still would need an autocoolguy icebox then maybe it would just be smarter to buy one and replace the Lingenfelter box as a whole right?

 

Sensor ——-/relay/——-Controller

Ths relay sits in between and determines wether the controller sees the sensor or the chosen resistor value.

 

I recall that the autocool won't work with the Camero fan direct.

 

While I wait on the URD U-Spec headers to be back in stock does anyone have an audio clip of what they sound like with a stock Y pipe and catback? I'll be running that set up until I'm ready to pull the trigger on the roostfactor Y pipe and I want to know if the sound is bad enough to hold off install

 

I run the URD Spec-U headers with an otherwise stock exhaust. I'm N/A, but I can tell you the truck sounds virtually stock. I just posted a video in the HPTuners main thread. The "noise" you hear in that video is 99% my intake (aFe).

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hp-tuners-for-2005-2015.600793/page-375#post-25987124

 

define bad. in my opinion anything other than the trd tail section isnt great until an equal length y is installed. then anything you do sounds better. volume is just controlled by muf/resi combos. after i get a garage built im thinking pre rear tire, dual resinator side dumps. but im just a wild hoon like that.

 

I have duel resonators dumped right at the back tire. I was forced to chop off the tail due to my icon rxt springs being in the way.

 

ooo! pics?

 

exhaust can always be relocated. but i like how you solved it.

 

I think I have a couple, if not I’ll take one tomorrow. But looking at my post….I should have said y-pipe…duel resonators…muffler , then dump

 

If any of y’all need a way to get a constant trigger from your MG Clutch for the E-Fan setup, this divice will do it for a fraction of the cost of an Autocoolguy IceBox. The PAC TR-7 can perform the many different tasks. Normally used in car audio applications this will take a pulsed input and and turn it into a constant output. It requires some initial setup to choose what function you want. I used to use these all the time back in my car audio days and can’t believe I forgot about them.

$15
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J22BO

Function #6
https://catalog.pac-audio.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=68

 

I'm going to assume that needs to be mounted inside the vehicle yeah?

 

If it doesnt have a heatsink. remove the plastic enclosure and encase in epoxy and water proof heat shrink whole thing

 

That's one way to do it eh? Where are you going to pick up enough epoxy to do that though? The only epoxy I've ever really used is the epoxy based paint and JB weld.

 

Use something like West Systems epoxy. Available in hardware/woodworking stores and boat stores.

Good stuff, easy to use. Just don't get it on your fingers...

 

Hardman double bubble epoxy is amazing.

 

Just make sure its for potting/Encapsulating electronics.
When i did RC stuff, id just soak the electrics in IPA, dry with air and soak in CorrosionX. It was good for a few good romps in the rain.