Dealership forgot to put in oil at 6000km

Cause it's -50 fucking below outside with a fucking 50 mile per hour wind. You volunteering?

 

Amen....

I hate winter for that. I envy guys in cali working in their garages during winter with probably 60 degree outside

 

First mod I did. Stewart-Warner oil pressure gauge mounted on a custom bracket just below the heater controls and in front of the gear shift. I had another car that I rebuilt the engine and forgot the prime the oil pump. My gauge on that car saved it.

 

Very nice! It's really good to see the arbitration process so well laid out so you know EXACTLY how to go about it! Down here each state has their own lemon law process so you get all sorts of crazy ideas about what to do if looking for advice in forums like this.

But reading it, I see two problems for OP: one: a complaint has to have FIRST followed the complaint resolution process spelled out in the owner's manual, with the original manufacturer (Toyota). And two: it does not apply if the complaint is with a dealership.

So it seems to me that in order to force them into this arbitration process OP will have to get Toyota to accept responsibility for the dealership's screwup. That's why it's very interesting to see what OP's results will be and how Toyota helps him.

 

I know what i would do with it take it in and trade it for a new truck. I would not be able to trust it. It might cost me but i would sleep better at night.

 

It's not all tits and champagne....CANVAP is run by the car dealers. Rarely does the complainant get a break unless the vehicle is a real lemon. No government intervention whatsoever.....

 

Balien, you should have an oil sample analyzed asap- before a dealer gets hold of the truck. Blackstone Labs is a good source for this: http://www.google.com/url?q=http://...4QFjAA&usg=AFQjCNEH1z5K-ngqosfO9k8Tg18fM9cwvw

I'd also remove the oil filter and inspect it. Cut it open and examine the pleats for glitter and metal shavings. (any copper is a bad sign). As stated by others, there is potential damage to bearings, piston rings, and cylinder walls.

Are you sure the oil light didn't iluminate sooner, or flicker? In fact, the light should have come on when the tech drove it out of the service bay- which added time to the engine running btw. How long did it run? Have you checked the oil level since the debacle?

I wish you the best.

 

You are truly misinformed of about how CANVAP works. Please educate yourself instead of telling false information.

I recommend you to read carefully right here:

http://www.camvap.ca/eng/camvap_for_me.htm

Also, learn how arbitration works in Canada (yes, arbitration is a law):

http://laws.justice.gc.ca/eng/C-34.6/FullText.html

If it's too hard and you want a short explanation about arbitration, read right here:

http://www.canadianlawsite.ca/arbitration.htm

Finally, you probably didn't know, but the majority of the decision made was in favor of consumer (62% on 2009, 64% on 2008), which is not bad if we compare to the court/lawyer, especially that it didn't cost you a dime. You can even have statistics there:

http://www.camvap.ca/eng/stats_2009.htm

However, decisions are final, you cannot contest it unless you can prove that the arbitrator did a mistake/didn't follow the rules according to the Code, that's why it's regulated by law.

 

I would suggest you research further yourself and check APA postings.

Read carefully from the Canvap web site:
"CAMVAP Funding
CAMVAP is fully paid for by the vehicle manufacturers through formulas that reflect each company's marketshare and past CAMVAP case experience. Each manufacturer's payment for the program is calculated one year in advance. There is no connection between CAMVAP's overall funding and any individual case."

There are government provincial reps, but is not law.

 

You might be right I sat in my Tacoma yesterday and my steering wheel blocks the view of the oil light when Turned so it's possible it was on the whole time. I am going to take samples of oil and cut open the filter at the dealership today I will be present the whole time and it's not the same dealership that did the work different owner too. I have also contacted the consumer protection office but they haven't called back yet.

Thanks for the advise.

 

keep us all posted, alot of people have spent some good time offering advice and would be cool to keep them updated as well. hope it all works out for you.

 

Wao., just read all 8 pages... This is ridiculous, totally interested. Do keep us informed on the outcome.

 

Ok so now I've had my inspection done I wouldn't leave the truck they sent a rep from the other dealership. They drained the oil we got 4.5L out of the engine. They removed the oil pan we inspected for metal. A few microscopic grains can be seen in photo. then they pulled out a boroscope and checked the cylinder bore from the bottom. then they pulled a spark plug and boroscoped a cylinder from the top we could see the crosshatch pattern of the cylinder with no obvious scratches. He also looked at the timing chain guide which he claimed would be one of the first things to be damaged. It was normal. We took the filter apart and inspected for any metal. none was found. There was a white residue on the oil filler cap which they said was condensation there was a little bit of that in the oil pan too. They kept the truck overnight because the oil pan gasket needed to cure. See pictures what do you guys think now? Yes I kept some oil for analysis.

 

Well what did the rep from the other dealer say.... did you ask him what he would do if it was His truck?

 

The creamy stuff in the oil filler truely is normal for this engine: in the pan is a bit strange. Have you not driven it much since the incident?

I can't say about the tiny particles of metal...it IS a new engine and they could be left behind from the break-in fill? Maybe someone who's been inside a recently broke-in engine could tell.

I would actually think the chain guide among the least likely to show wear...it didn't have time to run completely dry, after all. Too, it uses boundary oil protection (as do the cam lobes and lifters) so a residual oil film will provide some protection for the short time you ran it.

It's really the bearings where you'd see the most obvious damage: they rely on hydrodynamic oil protection and with no oil pressure they are scraping metal to metal.

 

If they're happy with the results after checking everything then they shouldn't have a problem extending the warrenty on the engine right? That's the least they should do.

 

Just keep onto them and I mean keep on, my manual trans wasn't filled at the factory enough and at 4500mi it went out, then at 30k Toyota put auto-trans fluid in it and it messed up again and I had to fight with them, then at 33k my clutch went out so I had to battle even more (even with a TSB to back me up) to get it replaced. So just keep onto them!

 

It would be nice if they pulled a couple main caps and a few rod caps to look at as well. But as I originally said this is most likely fine. While nobody may have seen the condensation in the pan, who's actually pulled their pan and looked? I know I haven't. After my second assembly (after another complete cleaning of everything) of the engine I posted pics of that wasted the bearings I did get some tiny particles in the break-in oil. I did on the MR2 engine I built about 10 years ago too. As I said before if this were my truck I would be extremely upset, but the engine is most likely fine.

 

actually yes I asked them both and he said he thought is was a good thing to get it inspected and maybe even the oil tested but that's as far as He would go with it.

 

I drove 70km since incident in 6 days