Turbo BS Thread

If only all v6 motors could sound like a vr engine. The turbo sure does help a lot. That truck is straight piped?

 

Looking for some input from turbo wizards like yourselves.

I've got 5k miles on my TT kit and don't get me wrong, they haven't like really hard rough miles, but I feel like my oil catch can should have plenty of gunk in there by now, no?

It's got none as far as I can tell by looking at the tube on the side.

It was hooked up by the shop that did the initial kit install. Passenger side since the driver side has that check valve provided with the turbo kit.

Hose to pcv, hose to airbox for fresh air...

There's no way the truck is simply just running that beautifully...is there? No way right?

Do I need a check valve in the hose that runs from pcv to catch can? Is it just installed flat out incorrectly?

See pictures below:

 

@mZiggy

Ditch the can and run hose down to the frame.

 

Upgraded turbo and intercooler on my roommates fiat (25lbs boost) with an aftermarket catch can. Also saab 9-3 aeroupgraded turbo and intercooler/piping with a catch can too. Neither of them fill up really, they both run great. I wouldn't be worried about a lack of stuff in the catch can.

 

Alright. Thanks.

 

The exhaust goes down towards the front cross-member, and has a turn which is angled out under the frame behind the front wheel. Very short exhaust.

 

That has gotta be loud inside the cab.

 

Honestly, it is contrary to expectation. When it was straight down, it was. With the slight redirection, it is not as loud as to be expected.

 

I concur, given the nature of the exhaust on this truck, it's surprisingly quiet for what it is.

 

I was starting to think I was crazy....

 

Mine was loud AF when I used to unbolt at the end of the downpipe. Guess it makes a difference pointing the exit away from the cab.

 

Height, allowed its placement. True placement was to maintain ground clearance. Budget and race rules, dictated placement.

I would never have known how "quiet" that would have been, had the stipulations been different.

 

On the driver side, from valve cover to upper (plastic) intake plenum, is there a vacuum hose? Is there a PCV valve there as well, on that valve cover?



Is that attached to the valve cover?

Does it normally go straight to the intake filter box?

 

Idk. Mat replied with this when I asked in the VFTuner turbo thread:

https://forum.vftuner.com/forum/toy...turbo-development-and-support?p=5874#post5874

 

I basically figured out that my passenger side catch can is working, but not really doing too much either because it's breather side, and then shop probably placed that line at the airbox out of convenience rather than post-maf. But probably not a big deal since the truck is running well anyway.

As for the driver side, I thought the check valve was doing more than simply preventing boost leak, so I need a catch can there but idk if it goes before or after the valve. I'm assuming it's too far to use the same catch can I've already got.

 

I'll respond to this when in about an hour. I'll have more time then.

Is there a nipple on the intake manifold/plenum, on the driver side, which normally has a hose which goes straight to the PCV port on the driver side valve cover?

 

So I apparently don't have a photo of the line after the check valve went in, but that's it. The brown one. Check valve is in there, and from what I understand the line for the catch can needs to be as well then

 

Okay, someone saw my posts in the vFTuner thread and took pity on me, explained what to do.

Basically I need to get the JLT catch can for example and put it in-line, after the check valve.

 

I want you to try something.

Cap, plug, pinch like a water hose, whatever necessary, that port on the driver side intake manifold.

You can leave the PCV side, on the valve cover open.

If the only other tube routed to the intake, is from the passenger side valve cover, but that one goes only to the intake box, and not a source post MAF, then you can leave that one alone. Or you can pull it off of the intake box, and cap the intake box port.

Basically what you're doing, is disconnecting the PCV system and hoses from the intake manifold. Which is not a bad thing. Especially not for just testing.

That driver side port must not be able to pull vacuum, and be sealed well and good.

If there is a vacuum hose going post MAF, to a valve cover, it must be capped.

Then test drive.

 

What it comes down to as the easiest method for a catch can, is to have both valve covers routed into a catch can. Then a breather on the catch can. All manifold ports to the valve covers must be blocked or capped.

The little blow by from the rings, will then vent nti the can. No positive boost pressure will be able to go into the crank case this way. It will only go through the throttle body, into the combustion chambers as it should.

We can talk about how to route one can then.