How to Change a CV Axle on an 01-04 ADD Tacoma

Here’s my little writeup on how to change a CV axle on a 01-04 ADD Tacoma

Tools required:
36mm Socket
Breaker bar or Air-gun
Small chisel or sharp strong screwdriver
Rubber mallet
Metric socket set
Jack
Jackstands
Small or needlenose pliers


Step 1
Jack up the front side of the truck where you’ll be changing the axle. Be sure to NOT jack on the control arm as you’ll need that to have a smidge of play in it later

Step 2
Remove tire/wheel/skid plate

Trust me on the skidplate – ESPECIALLY if you have aftermarket skids

Usually I like to place the tire underneath the front of the truck so that God-forbid the jack/jackstands fail the truck doesn’t crash completely to earth. I chose NOT to do this during this axle change. I also did not use jackstands as I was unable to locate mine. I did however use 2 jacks for that just-in-case factor

Step 3
Once you’ve removed the wheel, you’ll see a black metal cap at the center of the hub
You’ll want to remove this carefully so as not to booger up the edge too badly because we’re going to reuse this. The best way to remove it is with a chisel or sharp screwdriver. I used a small chisel and a rubber mallet and it popped right off



Step 4
Once you’ve removed the black dust cap from the hub assembly, you’ll see a large nut and a cotter pit and quite possibly a cotter pin lock? Im actually not sure what you call it but it’s the green thing in my picture

Remove the cotter pin and cotter pin lock and then using a 36mm socket and a breaker bar or air gun (what I prefer) remove the large nut. This can get a bit tricky as the hub will want to spin while you unscrew the nut. It’s handy to have a 2nd pair of hands to help you but I wasn’t so fortunate today. I angled a screwdriver between 2 of the studs and braced the hub from spinning while removing the nut with the air gun.





Step 5
Once you’ve removed the cotter pin and nut, move around to the backside of the hub assembly and disconnect the 4 screws holding the spindle to the lower ball joint. There are 2 at the front and 2 at the back. IIRC this is a 12mm socket.

In my picture, I’ve already removed the bolts but the arrows are pointing to where they were.



Step 6
Pull the spindle out and separate it from the cv axle. It should slide out fairly easily but you may have to bump it slightly to get it to separate. Swing the spindle around to the backside towards the cab of the truck.



Step 7
Remove CV from diff. This is probably the most difficult and time consuming part of the change. You’ll need a prybar (preferably a skinny one). There is a lip on the CV next to the diff that you can use to pop the CV out. Use the prybar to pop the CV loose. You’ll know when it pops free. It’s held in there by a little c-ring around the end of the axle (denoted by the GREEN arrow in the picture below, with the lip marked with RED arrow).



Now that you’ve successfully pried the CV out of the diff, you’ll probably lose a little bit of gear oil…no biggie…it shouldn’t be that much. If you lose a lot be sure to add some.



Step 8
Now you’re ready to slide the new CV in. This can also be tricky because you have to line up the splines, but just keep trying and turning it till it slides part of the way in. It will more than likely stop before going all the way in. Using the prybar and rubber mallet, gently tap it all the way into the diff. The c-ring will lock it in once it gets in there good.



Step 9
Bring the spindle/hub assembly back around to where it should be and push the end of the CV thru it. Once again be sure to line up the splines as you don’t want to booger those up in any way. This should slide most of the way thru with no problems.

Step 10
Button up the spindle to the lower ball joint/control arm with the 4 bolts you removed previously

Step 11
Put the large nut onto the CV axle and tighten down. Place cotter pin lock onto the CV axle and then push cotter pin thru the hole to finish locking the CV in. Check the backside of the hub where the CV joint meets the hub to make sure it’s seated properly. There’s a gasket and lip there that should meet flush with the hub assembly.

Step 12
Using the rubber mallet, gently tap the dust cap back into place. Replace skid plates, tire/wheel. Lower jacks. Recheck lugs on the wheel. Take her for a test drive!



[FONT=&quot]That’s it. Pretty easy DIY. It took me about 2 hours including gathering my tools and putting them away.[/FONT]

 

Good job, Copper!!!!

 

what do you mean? i dont have a webpage or anything so i have no use of it being in html format

thanks guys

thanks...tho i have a strange issue now...the spare cv i got from a guy who cut out all his IFS and it came out of i think an 03 tacoma...anyways...the boot closest to the tire has one more rib than the stock one and previously i had no ribs touching but now i do...i tried to take my busted one to autozone but they no longer do core swaps as they claim their new cvs are all core-less

not until i get some more money, time and the issue i just described with chris sorted out

oh and now my driver's side is leaking grease from the inner boot

 

Interesting. Maybe the guy that had the shaft before replaced only the boot, but with a different one? In the past, I have heard about people useing a "spiral" type boot. Maybe you could find one of them. they are supposed to eliminate any rubbing of fins altogether.

 

im just gonna say screw it for now and run this one till it starts popping...i only paid $50 for it...i'll keep my eyes open for another couple from a SAC on ttora...cheaper than the $125 autozone core-less special right...tho many people have said that the aftermarket ones like autozone or a place like that are stronger than OEM ones and typically last longer...

 

you're right...a drop of locktite would be a good idea...because those falling out will be a VERY bad day...but i dont have any and i just cranked down on them good and i'l check them in a couple days

 

i would assume that its a very similar setup...but ive never actually looked...

new CVs from autozone for my truck are $125/per side so $250 for 2 of them...i buy them used from someone whos putting a solid axle under their truck and no longer need the CVs

i dont know how good of an idea that is honestly...

when i was doing it...i found if you angled a screwdriver between the wheel studs against the spin you could get enough opposite force to break the nut loose enough to undo by hand the rest of the way

 

good point...but when income and availability of funds is a factor...a used $50 cv is much more appealing than a $125 one

 

at your own risk of course

i dont use a torque wrench...dont even own one...just sayin


and i dont think i've damaged my diff seal...and ive changed CVs several times