Cowl induction snorkel

Same here. Got a bunch of turdies who want to do a cowl setup like this after seeing mine lol

 

@EatSleepTacos
See it at 4:28 over here:

 

yea after talking with the OP. It’s quite easy really. Order 2 flanges off the interwebs, 2 flex couplers, and one section of pipe. Block off the side fender intake and drill a new hole in the back of the airbox. I will be tackling this in the next couple weeks.

 

Finally got around to doing the cowl intake. Advance auto had intake flanges and an intake kit including a section of 3” black powder coated aluminum piping & coupler that fit the needs of this mod perfectly, plus the elbow recommended by OP. I sandwiched the firewall into the cowl with 2 intake flanges back to back with closed cell foam as a gasket. 3” coupler to aluminum pipe (cuts easily & accurately with chop saw w/ wood blade) into coupler and boom. I’m coming from a K&N 63 series air charger and there’s noticeably less race truck noises, noticeably less power at high rpm when I really punch the pedal (kind of annoying), however I get almost 2mpg better and intake temps stay 30-50 degrees cooler plus the peace of mind that there will be no more water soaked cone filters

 

Most of the performance change can be due to intake air velocity. The air speed change with a Ø 4.0 opening versus a Ø 3.5 may seem OK - but the resistance to flow is going to go up exponentially - its not a linear change. I'm thinking a Ø 4.0 tube with a "flat spot" of 1/2 inch at the cowl or an oval might be better than a Ø 3.5 round. Maybe the 90º elbow would be better at Ø 5.0 necking down to Ø 4.0 at the air cleaner - then flatten out the Ø 5.0 tubing at the cowl to something more oval.

The old NASCAR stockers used to open up a cowl slot a couple inches wider than the 14.0 air cleaner element of the day.

 

I don't think anyone's expecting any performance boost out of this, just trying to get the Intake out of the wheel well and somewhere dry without the need for a dorkel.

 

Post before mine was reporting a high rpm power loss............

 

That's probably from WOT not getting enough airflow through the cowl. That's the downside, is the airflow maxes out at a certain point vs being open to the whole inner fender.
Guess I read that post without thinking about number crunching.

 

Did you open up additional airflow into the cowl from the sides? I bet if you run the A/C on High and go WOT you'll feel the loss, if you turn off the A/C and go WOT, you'll feel more normalish, if you open up two more breather passages turn the A/C on high and go WOT, you likely will just feel like you did prior to the cowl snorkel.

 

I will go back in and open up some more breather holes since I didn’t initially. I was under the impression that the cowl is essentially open to the same amount of airflow as the fender well since they both have openings. I will also cut the intake flange per @GREENBIRD56 recommendation on the cowl side at an angle to see if that makes any improvement. Thank you all for the information, I’ve been on Facebook forums too much lately and it makes me appreciate the real TW community.

 

Yeah FB people keep telling my I'm dumb and I'll blow up my engine because of this. Also got told I'm a mall crawler by the same stretch of logic.

 

So I saved the cutouts from the mods and repurposed them on my new workbench. I saved them thinking maybe I'd need to plug a hole at some point and weld them in somewhere. This works too.

 

i used a Milwaukee 3” hole dozer and did two side by side on each end of the cowl area. Took the truck a few drives to adjust to the additional air flow but she picks up like before, I think the lack of nose from removing the K&N also played a part in thinking I had less power. I did cut the intake flange at a bit of an angle too to increase intake surface area in the cowl. I have not put a divider in the cowl yet but also may just skip that altogether since the cabin noise is less than half of what it used to be with the K&n

 

The cabin noise you get used to and if you're like me, you turn up the music anyway so its negligible. Either that or mine got quieter!

 

Same same. I often drive with the windows down and the music up.

 

it's how you know its running right...same thing with a squeaky rear...when it stops making noise or making a lot more noise, something is up. my radio is fine tuned for this. lol

 

forget squeaky rear, thats normal, its clicking rear I'm worried about.

 

Just take them apart, parts cleaner and re grease moving parts. I have to do this after every mud hole encounter

 

I did it.... to my '18 pro.... I guess I'll create a thread for it!

 

What's the inside diameter of the 3" tubing yall are using? Would a 3" od x 2 3/4" id x 12" aluminum tube suffice?

Link to product I'm referring to

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-OD-x-2-3...inum-Round-Tube-3-OD-x-125-wall-/200664546260