Redline motor oil vs Mobil 1

I’m sure this has been discussed many times on here. Anyone use Redline over Mobil one? I’ve ran Mobil one in just about everything I’ve ever owned and have had decent luck with it. So far my Tacoma seems to like it as well. Never has used any between changes.

I’m a big believer in redlines SL1 fuel cleaner. I use it every oil change. So I was considering switching to their motor oil. I see now that they make a more OEM style synthetic. Anyone here have experience with it?

 

Any lubricants redline makes you can bet its good. I've run their 2 stroke oil in my snowmobile while its very good its expensive. I can get spectro oil for much less and imo, it works just as well.

 

Redline is a true synthetic, mobil1 is just super hydrocracked crude, making a synthesized hydrocarbon.

Pennzoil Ultra platinum is in-between, and IMO is the best oil made for the money(<$5.per quart).

 

You can use any oil (dino or syn) in your truck as long as it meets or exceeds the API specification and viscosity requirements specified in the Owner's Manual.

Brand is no matter. Brand only offers different levels of wallet drain and bro brag rights.

<edit> Personally, I use Pennzoil, Quaker State or Valvoline in 10w30 or 10w40 and WIX, NAPA, Bosch or ACDelco filters. Purchase selection is dependent on what is available and price where I'm standing. I won't chase all over town looking for a specific oil or filter. I change every 5,000 miles.

There will be many posters following to say I'm doing this all wrong for various reasons.

The truth is just follow the recommendations in the Owner's Manual. All will be good.
<endedit>

 

Have you looked into Amazon basics oil? It was comparable to mobile 1. As knute said, as long as it meets specs, there isn’t gonna be issues if you change it regularly

 

Good point, Costcos kirkland brand is the same stuff for even less.

 

I use AMSoil. $21.50 a gallon. Never any issues. Blackstone reports are always excellent. Not saying it is the endall oil but for the price and my results, no point in changing brands.

 

I use redline in my WRX and it has been great. I used Mobil one high mileage synthetic in my old 4Runner and tacoma and that was great as well. I would say either one is a great lubricant.

 

Any brand oil of the correct weight will work just fine, so long as you maintain appropriate change intervals.

You're over thinking this. It's a mass produced mini-van motor, not a race engine.

 

Most synthetics start out with the same base stocks. Its their additive package that sets them apart.

 

Have used Redline in every vehicle forever and never a problem. Use Pennzoil "high mileage" dino oil every 5k miles in my commuter because that's what jiffylube has and I don't bother doing it myself. Think it's more important to change it regularly rather than what you actually use though.

 

I was a royal purple fanboy until I got 4 cases of Rotella gas for 2.99/qt and my true colors showed.

Apparently the Toyota branded stuff is very good and has more of some kind of additive than most other oils.

I wouldn't stress between Redline and Mobile 1. Both seem to be well respected for whatever that is worth. Project Farm might have a comparison with them.

 

I agree any brand will be fine as long as the requirements called out by Toyota are met.
How to decide which brand? How about price.

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/promotions/mobil-1-2021-rebate
click "terms and conditions" for product details.

I spent 2x$24.37 at walmart and got $30 back for 2x5quart jugs of mobil 1 extended performance 0W-20.
that's $1.87/qt.

promotion good til sep 30, 2021. easy to submit for rebate online.

 

Earl is Earl imho.

Spending a bunch extra for redline or purple when you are just going to dump it out 5-6000 miles later is silly.

 

Not true, has lots of race engine pedigree. When I was a kid, the only way to get 300hp from a 3.4~.8 was with a large blower, and a ton of internal performance parts.

Toyota gets 300hp from a naturally aspirated average sized v6. A couple of decades back, only race engines would make this sort of power.

 

Not completely true.

Motorcycle engines were generating 100 hp from 1000 cc naturally aspirated engines in the 1980s. These were production engines on consumer bikes.

 

True, but the OP question was about redline(group 4/5) and M1(group III). I added PUP because I've found it to be extremely good, and it's a Group III+.

 

I know, I owned lots of them, and raced lots of them. Some of those production engines were race engines, and raced in a mostly stock form.

My point is, race tech trickles down to production cars. Just because yesteryears race engine is in today grocery getter, does not make it any less of a race engine.

 

Back in the day i always used castol 10-30w or 10-40w. Changed it every 3k miles, my truck engines lasted forever. Today its all synthetics in these smaller cc/ci, but higher hp, higher temp running engines. About the only time i use regular motor oil now is in my lawn tractor.

 

Cool! Thanks everyone for the information! It’s greatly appreciated!