Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I like your definition of "fine tune."

 

My tolerances when working or building anything are +/- 0.75" so I'm the definition of inaccurate.

 

Crazy it deflected that much in the first place! Makes me wonder about your rack bushings, only thing I can think of that would cause that much deflection.

 

Could you flip the interior bracket and reweld it to the same surface as the other one?

 

I don't think it has anything to do with deflection. I removed the steering stop per the instructions so there was no hard stopping point for the steering, aside from the rack itself. With little effort I could push the banjo bolt into the secondary tab. Now, with my improvised steering stop, it doesn't move at all. Rack is OEM and less than a year old so the bushings are fine.

 

So your before picture wasn't at lock?

 

On the LCA? Sure, maybe before it's powdercoated but that still doesn't solve the problem of no hard steering stop point for the rack like the OEM stop. Normall, there's steering stop that makes contact with the LCA, so a metal on metal contact to stop steering in each direction. With that removed, it's on the physical limits of the rack to stop itself. I agree with @Arcticelf that this was the proper fix vs just clearancing the tab so the bolt doesn't hit.

 

It was at lock meaning if I turn the steering wheel all the way and let go, that's where it sits. If I continue to turn the steering wheel and hold it, it will keep turning, making contact.

 

I gotcha now. But you do get a ton of deflection on the stock bushings at lock. Id have someone crank it to lock and watch how much that rack actually moves. Its lots.

 

Yeah. So it makes sense that it happened while I was ripping donuts. I was at locklock, just holding the steering wheel fully cranked.

 

Would cutting less of the steering stop work I guess? What’s the issue with not cutting it at all?

 

From the looks of things the factory steering stop might possibly get jammed under the arm. Id imagine that would not go well at all.

 

I'm not sure where the stop would sit in relation to the LCA. I just cut it off at the beginning of the install since that's what the instructions say. I think Cory is right though, it could possibly get wedged underneath.

 

I missed your edit the first time. I had considered poly bushings but one, it's a pain in the dick. Two, I've heard of some weird issue with it not returning to center, or something like that. I don't recall exactly, but there are reports of poly bushings causing issues.

 

I can tell you, with the slide rack lock is lock and it doesnt keep moving. Truck drives better than stock and wheel returns just fine. I ran poly bushings in my last rack as well and never noticed anything weird. My personal bet is it made contact from deflection. If you watch that rack you wont believe how much it moves with the stock bushings

 

That’s what I was thinking, too. I’ll have some time to play with everything without the wheel and coil over and see what’s what. Only thing I don’t know is if I can cycle it properly without having the toe set or without the tie rod connected?

 

I would wait to do anything until you have the tie rod ends mounted and at least an eyeball/tape measure toe adjustment.

 

If that is the case, that could be why this hasn’t been reported yet. I’m sure all of JD’s trucks have the slide rack so they wouldn’t know about it.

 

It’s very possible! But hey, all of us giving input only improves the product.

 

Exactly why I post my progress and thoughts in here. Helps everyone out.