2016 Motor Failure

OP, in your situation as described my advice would be to fix the motor if financially possible and drive the truck as long as you need to. If it doesn't make financial sense or you are unable to fix the truck, don't spend another dime on it and sell it as is, you will get enough to clear your loan with Toyota and possibly more. Pay cash for a good used vehicle and drive it until you are in a position to get another new one.

 

Plot twist* OP is not 3rd gen owner with blown motor

 

Whenever you speak to the service salesman, errrrr, "advisor," ask them how the crank position sensor checked out. Get the mechanic that actually worked on it you can and talk to them. Checking the CPS should not be negotiable. If they tell you it has a rod knock or dropped a valve, tell them you want the CPS checked. So many of these places would rather sell you an entire new assembly then actually diagnose the problem. I just went through this with my tractor. First dealer said you need a whole new transmission but couldn't tell me exactly what was wrong with it. 2nd opinion dealer actually diagnosed it, found the exact issue (scored pressure plate) and fixed that only.

Do not accept "you just need a new engine." And yes, pay to get it towed to a 2nd opinion shop. This could be the difference between a $100 sensor and a $10,000 engine. If it really is the engine, you won't feel the $80 you paid to have it towed to a second shop. Consider taking it to a well known independent place. The Nextdoor app is good for that.

Good luck and keep us informed.

Edit to add- 3.5 rules, 4.0 drools

 

When the time comes I'm going to pay these dudes ( https://www.evwest.com/catalog/vehicles.php ) $15-25k to convert the taco into a Tesla. Delete transmission and have motor mate to a manual T case out of a FJ ( i assume revers gear is not ). I'll take 150 miles range in order to never ever worry about 100,000 transmission + engine issues. No need to re-gear for bigger tires either. No smog issues for anyone with tunes in CA. No more arguing about 0W-20 oil with strangers on the internet. And the biggest benefit: I can run a nice smooth skid plate just for the batteries, that doesn't have that dumb bump in it to clear the exhaust or that trap door for your oil filter .

You should do the swap and let me know how it goes. thanks.

 

This thread has officially set a new low for shitposting and rampant fuckery.

And why the hell are so many of you telling her to just go with a new motor, no questions asked?

Would you tell your wife that if she took your truck in to the dealer, no CEL, no code thrown, recently serviced....."Yea little lady, your engine failed, need a new one!"

Because shitbag mechanics are never extra shitty when I woman brings a vehicle in for service on her own right?

 

If you think this thread is a new low for shitposting, may I direct your attention to the "did I buy a lemon" thread?

At least here most people are talking about the actual topic and a few are sadly not.

 

Me: Genuinely curious why her truck's motor failed

This thread:


Fuck this, I'm going back to the 1st gen sub, this shit is like the wild west.

 

I'll echo what others have said. Get a more firm reason or at least narrow it somewhat.

Then think about a used engine.

Friend of mine is in a similar boat with her car (transmission) and said it wasn't feasible to buy another car now with the current situation of prices.

Plus side to that OP is you retain all the goodies, at a glance looks like you've done a good bit of modding.

 

I'm no professional here but I was on a cross-country trip when my friends escape started knocking. COMPLETE ENGINE FAILURE as described, diagnosis: piston rod bearings. If you the have time and another vehicle to drive, its significantly cheaper to replace bearings yourself. Otherwise most mechanics will advise to completely replace the engine. A quick look online and 2016 taco engines look around $4k plus shipping and handling and labor (about 8hrs worth IIRC for and engine swap). Please check warranty!

 

A lot of the issues you mentioned can be resolved by staying off TW

 

In all seriousness though, get the motor checked out by another mechanic. A second opinion is always worthwhile as people misdiagnose stuff all the time.

The solution is simple though, sell the thing and get yourself a nice 1st gen.

 

Properly replacing rod bearings requires a complete engine tear down. The labor and time spent to tear down an engine completely and replace them, polish up the crank, machine the rods (to ensure roundness and set clearance, depending on severity), and then reinstall with all new gaskets and fluids. This would be about the same cost as a new engine due to all the extra labor.

Like you said, do it yourself, sure. But how many people are really qualified to do a job like that on their own?

And if you're talking just drop the pan down and swap out the bearings.. That's just putting a very temporary bandaid on a real issue and it's only a matter of time before it happens again thanks to improper clearances and poor bearing fitment from the previously failed bearings.

EDIT: And lets not forget about all the metallic oil contaminants that most likely got mixed up somewhere they shouldn't have thanks to the modern engines kinship with extremely tight tolerances. Hence the low oil viscosity these motors run.

 

300 pounds is barely considered a load lol. We weren't talking about towing.

 

I wish I knew where to find and how to post gif such as this

3.5 more duds than a thousand round brick of ladyfingers?
Just because it's Friday

 

@HMR06, I'm sorry this has happened to you. It's easy for me to say but I do try to live by "the problems that money can fix are the easy ones". Please try to keep this in mind. I hope others will build or correct what I've tried to offer and leave the Smart Ass comments home. Put yourself in this womans situation please.

The first thing I want to say is if you don't feel the dealer is working in some objective way to help you then I strongly suggest is to get a second opinion and confirmation on what you are being told.

When I think through your situation, what I come up is the following:

• You bought the Toyota truck new
• You have had it protected with a Toyota Platinum Extended Warranty since you bought it and until the Platinium warranty ran out
• Most all the work has been performed by verifiable Toyota dealerships
• Since day one the maintenance history is well documented
• You understand the truck is out of warranty but you also know you should not have to put a new engine in a WELL MAINTAINED Toyota every 145K miles

What I also come up with is:

• You must either replace or repair the truck
• The dealer is in the best position to drop in a new engine; they own the labor to do it and have connections to the manufacturer providing it
• A Toyota dealership would be in a good position to resell a Toyota that has a clean and verifiable maintenance history even (or especially) with a documented dealer installed new engine (with presumably a warranty on at least the engine). To the right buyer they will get top dollar

In summary, your strengths for negotiations may be:

• Keep in mind, if you are not willing to walk away you have nothing to negotiate so if they won't help you (and it is safe to say they could if they wanted) you will have no choice but to find someone who can and will
• Deal with no less than the Sevice Manager and/or the Dealership General Manager (at least talk to the GM and tell him your story and what you are thinking he/she could do to help)
• You have to pay for an engine but if you agree to puchase a new Toyota from them they have nothing to lose by selling you the engine at cost
• If you trade and purchase new Toyota from them and you pay for the replacement engine (at cost); the dealer pays for the installation labor
• If their sales people do their jobs they have the opportunity to get top dollar for your car with a new Toyota engine
• You tell them you need enough in trade to pay off your note, pay for the engine, and have some left for a reasonable down payment
• Having to replace an engine in a new Toyota with your circumstances warrants you being treated to a reasonable if not excellent deal on a new Tacoma; make sure you consider the "market" conditions but also make sure you get a reasonable if not excellent deal

I hope you have someone who can help you keep your poker face in place and provide support and confidence. The reality is you are in a difficult situation by you have terms to negotiate. I hate to a jerk because no doubt you already know this but you need to put on your best big girl panties and look out for yourself with strength and dignity. Best of Luck!

 

OP Best of Luck. Here is the list of complete engines at wreck yards in your area in Co. @ $4 g's. edit : you'll have to go to the website and input the year, make , model and part
https://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

 

This thread has set the new bar for bad ideas.

Let's see

Hellcat engine swap
Diesel engine swap
Now wait it an EV swap

I don't think a lot of people have the grasp that this woman likely needs a car now vs. let me drop this off and i'll see it again some time well off in the future. I think compounding the problem is she still has a note on the truck.

If the engine really is blown up, the most economical solutions are:

LKQ used engine

Sell it like it sits, pay off the note, buy a beater and try again later.

 

put some 60wt oil in it and call carvana.

 

It only has to drive on to the truck for a few minutes, so if it runs nice send it. I put at least half motor honey.

Even better sell it to Whistlin Diesel, so we can see how mall rated a 3rd gen really is

 

Personally, I think she is close. I looked on CarFax for 2016's and 2017 Sports with 135K to 155K miles. I'm thinking they would have given her $22K to $24K if the engine was not blown. What she negotiates is they pay off her $10K loan and deduct another $10K for the engine they install (at their cost) and leave her $2K to $4K for a down payment. Based on what I see the dealer will list it for $27K or more. I'm thinking they have minimal risk in this market. If they work it they get their $27K or more and walk away with money in their procket. Her truck looks good and as long as there is nothing else wrong I think it would be worth a shot

I'd be the first to admit that she will have to be working with a dealer who feels some culpability for having to put a new engine in a 5 year old Toyota with ~145K miles that has been maintained by Toyota for 90% or more of its life.