Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Would cutting less of the steering stop work I guess? What’s the issue with not cutting it at all?

 

From the looks of things the factory steering stop might possibly get jammed under the arm. Id imagine that would not go well at all.

 

I'm not sure where the stop would sit in relation to the LCA. I just cut it off at the beginning of the install since that's what the instructions say. I think Cory is right though, it could possibly get wedged underneath.

 

I missed your edit the first time. I had considered poly bushings but one, it's a pain in the dick. Two, I've heard of some weird issue with it not returning to center, or something like that. I don't recall exactly, but there are reports of poly bushings causing issues.

 

I can tell you, with the slide rack lock is lock and it doesnt keep moving. Truck drives better than stock and wheel returns just fine. I ran poly bushings in my last rack as well and never noticed anything weird. My personal bet is it made contact from deflection. If you watch that rack you wont believe how much it moves with the stock bushings

 

That’s what I was thinking, too. I’ll have some time to play with everything without the wheel and coil over and see what’s what. Only thing I don’t know is if I can cycle it properly without having the toe set or without the tie rod connected?

 

I would wait to do anything until you have the tie rod ends mounted and at least an eyeball/tape measure toe adjustment.

 

If that is the case, that could be why this hasn’t been reported yet. I’m sure all of JD’s trucks have the slide rack so they wouldn’t know about it.

 

It’s very possible! But hey, all of us giving input only improves the product.

 

Exactly why I post my progress and thoughts in here. Helps everyone out.

 

Correct the rack deflects a lot without the slide rack. I’ve never contacted or seen anyone else contact the banjo bolt so this is the first I’ve heard. I also don’t run steering stops unless using a ram assist and then I have Howe set the box up with them internally. If you care about stops and don’t want to scratch your arms you can leave the OEM stops on and rivet thin rubber pads to the to prevent scratching.

 

I’d rather drop a shackle onto a rock over a spring hanger any day. The shackle will just move rearward while the hanger will eventually bend your frame (even more than it already is )

 

You could do this...either buy them or make them yourself. If you have the slide rack you could make some to put on there.

 

Started the install of the Howe steering kit. Had to modify things since I dont have a core support that this is made to bolt up to. Cooler moved over to the left side since the aux tranny cooler in in the way on the right side. Could have made it work if I felt like making spacers....i didnt feel like it. Bent the lower part of the cooler bracket and just picked up an existing screw and the top just drilled and tapped the tube.
The resi I bolted up to a bracket I made to mount the upper part of the radiator. Only had enough space for 1 bolt. So gonna weld it in place when i can get over to my welder buddies place. But its fine for the street for now. Will finish it all up tomorrow morning.

 

@Airdog I would refrain from running lines too long. Howe recommends the most direct path if possible to minimize distortion/impeding flow efficiency.
I was able to make a mount off the cross member in the flow path and allows you to keep your front real estate without mods. Just an idea.

 

Looks like they no longer offer that product anymore, at least I couldn’t find it. That’s a nice solution.

 

Easy enough to buy a chunk of delrin and have a local machine shop turn it.

 

Sure, anything can be done with enough money and effort. I just don’t care that much now that I’ve solved the problem.

 

What wheel backspacing/offset are you guys running with the 2+ kit?