Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Raises hand..

1 broken front diff
1 broken Currie Enterprise chromoly +2 shaft
2 broken outer cages

only mentioning the rear diff and axle shafts for fun..
1 axle shaft
and too many rear diffs to count, which is why I carry a spare

Im at the point now that I can easily rebuild my front and rear diffs no problem. It's not hard, just need to understand that it takes time and patience to get the desired numbers

The latest front diff rebuild i did
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/monkeyproofs-misadventures.697489/#post-24678861

And my most recent rear diff rebuild..
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/monkeyproofs-misadventures.697489/page-4#post-25613239

And speaking of rears, theres only one very crucial Tacoma product that JDFab has not put out to market yet, which is a fabbed rear housing. I heard a rumor though, and I hope it's true..

 

was hoping to install some JD stuff, but tucking the front and making skids took all weekend. It ain’t pretty, but everything is as tucked up as I could possibly make it. I think that’s as slim as an ARB can get, too.

Anxious to get started on the JD stuff next.

 

Oh that would be rad. @jamesepoop def agree I’m usually about overbuilding and a new rear end is on the longer term map for sure. Not sure what I want to do for the front but taking to Harry I’m sold on the Howe kit for sure but need a few other things first.

 

Anybody found a way to put boots on the slide rack yet? Curious to see if we could all come up with something.

 

The driver side will be the issue as the clevis bottoms out right against the steering input shaft casting. I’ve had zero issues running the additional outer rack seals that the kit comes with

 

My main concern is the drivers side is definitely getting pretty nasty. I do have concerns when it comes to winter driving as they are pretty liberal with salt. With that said, the truck will likely be parked for winters after the long travel stuff.

 

May have been me, I'm the only person I know of that's broken a front arb carrier.

 

Must know the back story on this one lol

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...nt-drive-train-and-ruin-2-group-trips.657249/

 

I completely forgot about his.

 

That really makes me want to talk to a few people about making a bullet proof ADD shaft. We have a place here in Michigan that will machine 300m shafts for anything.

 

I havent heard of many people blowing up the solid FJ ADD, and im not sure if it would be worth it to upgrade past that. You gotta have a weak point somewhere and i wouldnt want it to be my diff.

 

The shock from the shaft breaking is likely what pushed his diff over the edge. That shock alone is likely what spiraled it all out of control. People need to stop thinking about “fuses”. They don’t exist. What breaks, breaks. The goal is to make it all strong.

And personally, I kinda like having the ADD. It has its benefits. So if it can be made stronger, why not?

 

But 2lo is rad and so is that stick shift into place with no worries about when it will or will not unlock

 

Those fuses are just not wanting to actually put in the effort or $$$ to upgrade and make it stronger.

 

I’m already twin sticked, and I have yet to have one single issue with the ADD. And coupled with the twin stick that ADD button allows you to do some cool things. Like put power to one tire and one tire only up front. Which has proved to be very nice in some situations.

 

Yes his probably broke from shock, but mine did not. I rarely bump anything and i try and be very smooth with my truck, yet i still blew up my front ADD. In a race application i would agree with you, build everything as strong as possible. But for a weekend warrior, its easier to replace a $200 ADD tube rather than a $2000 diff.

I think @Tacoma1192 already looked into 300m shafts. Maybe talk to him if you really want to go that route. Theres also other issues with the stock ADD, the plastic teeth on the motor can break, are you going to upgrade those too?

 

Actually, a buddy is already designing a full mechanical actuator like the jeep guys used to do when the vacuum ones failed.

I like to improve the things that are convenient not delete them because they have their problems.

 

Seems like alot of work to still be limited to the factory 8 inch diff.
When designing parts like this, there needs to be a market for them. A 300m shaft is a great idea, if there is a need for them. Seeing that you havent had an issue with it, and there arent many people that have had issues with them. And theres a solid upgrade to the fj tube, i dont see a market for it.

 

Currie 9” center mount diff. That’s my plan until @81Trekker does some thorough testing of the ttb kit. 2-3yrs from now my truck will be under the knife and for some very serious work. Borderline tube chassis build hopefully/ unfortunately for my wallet. Luckily as we’ve seen the wife is cool with these things