3.4L supercharger

maybe I don't know how but...how would I do it at speed the yarn would already be flying in the wind?

 

I am running an aftermarket radiator with a 170 stat so my engine temperatures are usually around 175-180,
The superchargers are heat makers, no way around that.
My supercharger temperature gauge can show an added 50 degrees just at idle from the MAF intake difference to the air after it’s gone through the supercharger going into the intake.
All this heat just sucks your power away
,
Are you run a supercharger temperature gauge to know your temperatures?

 

I dunno, having a hot supercharger is good for warming up grilled cheese sandwiches on the trail. Can't do that if it's nice and cool all the time

 

Haha awesome. on one of our last desert trips we had breakfast burritos cooking on the headers. we seriously need to figure out how to cool the gearoil in the nosecone, the heat generated has gotta be the main reason going below a 2.1" or 2" pulley is bad

 

i just have a small scanner plugged into the obd2 port to monitor my ect & Iat. so I don't know what the temps at the charger are. I run the 170 thermastat and also run the bigger 4runner 3 core aluminum radiator with about 80water/20 coolant mix. Big Electric Fan from an f250, and a Hayden 1040 engine oil cooler which is also for f150/250. Jba headers are ceramic coated and heat wrapped, and the 11"x20" louvers(rear facing) placed where the hood gets the hottest... I'm pretty sure the methanol or some kind of hood scoop is the last way for me to ditch anymore heat. unless we can figure out a way to pump the nosecone oil to a cooler... oh and something else I just figured out after putting on my new throttlebody. it has coolant hoses on it

 

On the snout cooler thing. There’s no way of actually coming up with an oil cooler. If it was possible it would have been done on an Eaton. I’d imagine the engineering involved with coming up with a circulation system that keeps oil pressure from spiking, the oil in the snout at the correct level etc. would be difficult to engineer.

Having said that Kenne Bell does have a water cooled case but there’s not much on how it actually works. I’m assuming it has water ports in the nose cone area.

Steigermeier has a mod where he welds a water jacket over the nose cone called the venom cooler. Ive considers this but you’d have to make a standalone tank, pump, and exchanger.

the downside to this is that he’s welding to your cast aluminum snout. I would be concerned that the heat would warp nose cone in a way that could cause some bearing issues where the surfaces were originally machined to hold the bearings in.

Someone needs to do this and see how it works out. It’s $500 for the mod plus whatever you come up with for the rest of the system. I’d assume it could be an issue to get the circulation speed right so that it’s efficient. Circulating too fast and it won’t take heat away and too slow it will under preform.

again, I’d be more worried about the welding to cast part. It’s not that it’s NOT possible but rather how well it will hold up and wether or not it warps critical bearing surfaces. But I really don’t know enough about any of that to know if it would be a concern or not.


Anyway, what do you auto guys transmission temps look like on hot days? I’m running a Trucool auxiliary cooler right now and temps are 175-190 but as high as 205 on hot driving around stop and go days.

 

That water cooled jacket sounds interesting. Makes sense about potentially warping things too.

I have an auto with a trans cooler and see temps in the 175-195 range normally. However, if I’m going up a long hill and it’s really hot out it’ll go as high at 215.

One other thing is while my transmission runs much cooler than before when it does get heated it cools down much much faster than before the trans cooler.

 

For all the supercharger guys one of the most important things to do is actually make sure your supercharger oil level is full and change the oil every 30k or so. This way if it’s low you will catch it before it’s too late.
An interesting thing is happening to I’m sure a high number of superchargers out there that most people don’t know.
Like the nose seal they do leak and fail and it’s obvious as oil is leaking out. Mine has failed 3 times during the life of my supercharger.

The reason why many superchargers are failing is actually because the rotor seal starts to leak even just a little and the oil is sucked into the rotors with no traces of an oil leak.

My last supercharger failure was because all the oil in the snout was sucked past a bad rotor pack seal and it burnt up.

Now I check my supercharger oil level at every engine oil change 5k and it seams to need a small shot
of oil each time to top it off

 

The oil level on these is tricky. If you go with the method of filling until it leaks out the fill hole on the second gens you’ve actually put more than 4oz.

On the 2nd gens the supercharger is sitting at an angle. So I wouldn’t know how to actually measure for a full 4oz at all times. If overfilling causes too much pressure and blown seals that’s one way to do it on the black unit.

This is why Kenne bell uses a pressure equalizer valve. Would be cool if we could get one for the drain hole. Or maybe even a drain hole magnet. That could help extend the life of the seals keeping the oil super clean.

 

Just clarification on the black charger it’s ~5.5-6oz of oil until it hits the bottom of the fill hole.

 

Yes, it's tricky, my 1st gen supercharger I had a fill hole made at the top and filled it with the correct amount of oil then made a dipstick from there

 

Mine is probably a little low. That’s because when I filled it up last time the oil label had a typo of 4oz when it was 8.

I wasn’t paying much attention because I was in a rush but I knew something was up when I filled it up and a bunch came right back out. While some oil oil ran down the front I had no idea how much. Since I still had 2oz in the bottle i removed 2 from the charger.

How ever much ran down the front was what I’m missing. I just have no idea how much that was.

Anyway, I remember when brand new I could stick a Allen wrench in short side first and turn it down. I would only get a little oil on the tip. So that’s sort of my gauge. It probably wouldn’t hurt to drain again and refill and then make a dipstick. But I’d rather be slightly low than slightly full in fear that I’d blow those seals out.

 

i filled my 2nd gen until it leaked out and thats why i blew a seal.I pushed it hard running for hours at and over triple digit speeds. it got so hot it pressurized and blew out the top between the nosecone and the mainbody. its siliconed up now and seems to be good filled to just below the fill port

 

Ive got a manual trans, you should swap one in with a race clutch it makes it so fun to drive. but anyways that sound very interesting about ken belle. how can I learn more about that. Is it on his site? and welding to cast isn't that scary heat wise. most of the heat will go into the part being welded on when you weld to cast.

 

this is interesting

 

dont let that pic fool you. I’m 90% certain that particular nose cone just happens to have a cavity from the factory. All he had to do was drill.

on every other picture of different nose cones you can see the water jacket welded on.

 

i was wondering about that. those were the only pictures I could find

 

so I like to brainstorm and dream and that venom cooler got me thinking again. I'll start off by saying I don't believe that flooding the nosecone with water does anything for heat soak loss of power. ya it will transfer heat out of the nose and some out of the body of the charger but not enough to matter. All I think it does is extend the bearing life in the end of the cone, which is good but not great. so our m62,.... if the nose cone indeed -is really hollow, it would be way more effective to stop heat soak with taking the heat out of the oil. If the nosecone held oil and that oil cavity connected to the main oil cavity with a closed loop circulatory system similar to a hydraulic system with an oil cooler, I think we would have something. IT would be constantly pulling heat out of the main body and would do more for heat soak. so the return would need to be up higher than the fill port(2nd gen) and you could run the oil out line out of the fill port so the gears are always in the oil bath and just run a super slow pump like an ounce a minute....

 

The hard part would be creating an oil system that would never allow that oil to overfill or starve in nose cone area.

I have zero experience in engineering something like that but I would be worried about keeping oil levels consistent and preventing starving the bearings.

I would keep the current oil fill hole and drill a hole at the lowest point (inlet) drill a hole right over top of the gears so oil will constantly flow over them (return)

What happens at high RPM when the oil is being thrown around so much that the inlet can’t suck anything in? Then imagine everything in the lines and the pump continues to empty into the nose cone. Now you have way too much oil in there probably creating high pressure.