Issue with cutting frame for 6” lift

Hello,

I learned that you will need to be cutting the frame in order to install the crossmembers for a 6” lift. I won’t be doing any off-roading with my truck which is why I’m going with a 6” lift. Now what’s the issue with cutting the frame? I’m never getting rid of my truck and I don’t ever see it not having a 6” lift. So what’s the issue with cutting the fram to install a crossmember? (If it’s the crossmember that the cutting is for)

 

The issue(s) with cutting your frame are, that it will most certainly void parts of your warranty, may cause issues with your insurance company in the event of an accident, and unless it's properly engineered and executed by a skilled fabricator/welder you Tacoma could fold like a.... Taco in the event of a collision.

 

ok it’ll definitely be done by a professional now what warranty will it void? I have a 2006 taco

 

Interesting problem.

Frankly, cutting the frame and bolting or welding on another piece will weaken the frame. 6" lift will place more stress on all the suspension, steering and drive systems.

Of course, nothing is as bro cool as a 6" lift on a mall crawler. Much easier to negociate speed bumps, tire stops, medians........

 

Whoops, missed the part where this was in the 2nd Gen thread. Disregard the warranty comment.

 

The issue is, if you don’t like the lift. Or it doesn’t work and causes other problems. You’re stuck. Unless you weld back the parts you cut off. Which ain’t going to be something many people are will/going to do.

I suggest never cutting off critical structural components if you don’t have too.

I’d settle for a lower lift.

 

Hey OP, do what you want to do and make sure to have a professional, reputable shop do the work. If you have to ask these kind of questions on a forum definitely don't do this job yourself as it would likely be the death of your Tacoma.

Personally a 6" lift and doing zero offroading is ridonkulous to me but if it floats your boat then who cares.

 

OP I have to ask, have you driven a Tacoma lifted 6" and setup like you are thinking of doing? Because its going to drive like shit, and as you have found out, once you go that big you can't go back. If you have driven one and weren't bothered, then more power to you, but if you just want to because you think it looks cool, I would seriously reconsider.

 

Lots of people run drop bracket lifts, just get it installed by someone that knows what they are doing and you shouldn't have any problem.

 

The main issues with a drop bracket lift are costs and very difficult to revert back to stock. Not for everyone but sounds like a DB lift is exactly what fits your needs. Welcome to TW.

 

I been running a 6" DB lift for years now and wheelin it pretty hard with no issues. If you plan on keeping your truck forever then do it but if you're thinking of trading it in for 3rd gen trash then don't even bother. Shots fired

 

I'm pretty sure the issue is if you don't cut the cross member the front driveshaft wont clear.

 

There was a funny thread on here somewhere where a guy cut enough for the driveshaft to clear and welded in new fill pieces. It was a 3rd gen, but pretty much the same thing. But this sounds like a truck that will have double deuces, thin sidewalls, and lots of chicks in the bed. Plus it's an '06. Just get that grinder out and start cutting, those chicks ain't gonna wait.

 

It's like putting a Chevy engine in a Ford chassis. Purists hate it.

However, if you put an old style solid axle under it, (for about the same price) you will have guys AND girls fawning over your truck.

Drop brackets are everywhere, if it's what you want, go for it. I wouldn't be surprised if someday all homeade (?) mods like this are outlawed on the street though without crash testing certification.

 

LOL!!!
The rear of the 2 crossmembers need to be cut because the differential is lowered to maintain the CV angles. So the Driveshaft is the main reason for cutting. The replacement crossmember is much stronger than the factory cross member. (Depends on which brand you go with.
Personally I would recommend ProComp due to it's design and affordability.
BDS Is sort of a knock off of the Procomp kit but much more expensive.
I actually prefer the nut plate that Procomp uses over the rivet nuts that BDS uses to secure the cut crossmember.
6" lift has less chance to high center, and has better articulation than a 3" lift.
Think of a 3" lift as hiking while wearing heels.
Sort of impedes you suspension articulation and make your truck a bit more prone to wheel lift off.

The negative of having so much lift is that your center of gravity is higher. Makes your truck more prone to tipping over if you do a lot of high camber trails. Oh and a 6" lift won't fit into most parking garages so that is a consideration also.

 

6 inches wont even hit bottom, you need 12.......

Anyways, want a lift just for looks? Get a 3 inch lift and bigger tires.

 

How exactly is this possible? Do you have data?

 

@toku58, tell me more about how a 6" lift has more articulation than a 3" lift.

 

It doesn't have more. It has the same.
But a 3" lift is essentially like hiking in high heels. Try it and you'll understand.

 

I've never hiked in high heels but I'll take your word for it.

I'm certain my less than 3" lift has more wheel travel than any off the shelf 6" DB lift unless you also purchase extended travel coilovers and UCAs that allow for more travel before contacting the coil. Hell, even the ProComp 6" lift that is over $3,000 doesn't come with a replacement for the crappy rear leaf pack and gains lift from a block instead.

I know plenty of people that wheel their trucks (not talking driving around on forest service roads) and none have a DB lift. If you really want to wheel then you'll benefit from a smaller lift to keep a lower center of gravity and gain ground clearance from larger tires. A 6" DB lift is for people that don't want to cut fenders (which is silly since they just cut the frame instead) or people after the look.