3.4L supercharger

GM alternator upgrade, I think people use one out of a Cadillac iirc. There's some threads on it around here. At least I assume that's what he means

 

I figured we were talking about running GM knock sensors for some reason

 

Maybe, I just went back and looked at the quoted posts...all I saw was denso vs GM at first and figured alternators lol.

 

the gm knock sensors. they are not as sensitive as the denso. mine are in a different spot because I did not want to pull my blower to change them out

 

GM knock sensor swap. SU1075 is the PN I think.

Toyota knock sensors are fragile little snowflakes. This is known across a lot of the Toyota enthusiasts sites.

The GM knock sensor uses the same frequency range, threads right in, and is about $150.00 cheaper each.

 

Hmm. I’ve never had an issue with knock sensors. But guess I’ll look into this

 

That motor looks like it got 95,000 miles on it.

 

It does indeed have 95k on it. Which is why I’m going to save it from the crusher

 

I should have pulled that brass piece out long ago! The truck feels way quicker 0-60 now Its gotta be a second maybe more quicker now. boost doesn't fall off near as bad between shifts. It is a monster from a dig now. night and day difference.

 

I know, I saw the original post on this truck,
Lucky I don’t need a motor but that one should be a good one, I’m always thinking I should have a backup motor but that might be years and years away

 

The knock sensor topic made me think to ask:

Any of you guys running the FTC from URD/split second get camshaft position sensor CELs?

 

Hoping someone can help me out or give some insight. I recently added the 7th injector kit. 2.2 pulley, spark plugs, fuel pump, the whole kit. Ran great for about 100 miles. Pinging went away. I have about 400 miles on it now and the pinging has come back. Maybe even worse. No misfires or check engine light.

any ideas? I was thinking of putting the stock pulley back on and seeing how that does. I do NOT have a wideband installed yet.

 

Oh the joys of supercharging the 3.4….I had HGLR ping for years. I just had to drive around it.

what did I do to get rid of it? I honestly have no idea. So many things have been done. It’s not the pulley BTW.

first thing to do is turn on ETC Power and leave it on.

these are the things that helped.

New crank position sensor.
straight through muffler.
Replacing the knock sensors.
Headers.

I no longer get ping in the HGLR area. But it’s not completely gone. I now ping up top, going to get my water/meth system running again to see if that cures it.

it just never ends.

Anyway, Welcome to boosting the 3.4l.

 

Yes, that’s what I’m getting. Cruising from around 60 to 75 it’s pinging pretty bad. Will you get a CEL if the knock sensors are bad? You don’t think going back to the stock pulley will help? I do need to upgrade my stock exhaust. I plan on doing magnaflow cats

 

For me, I had timing issues for a while where my timing would take a dump, I would lose power, harsh shifting, and bad belt slip. I suspected the knock sensors but that light took forever to turn on. I think you can definitely have knock sensor issues but no lights.

The timing issues and weird shifting etc. started out pretty mild and slowly got worse until it popped a light. But that took years. Ever since I replaced them almost all the issues I had went away. It’s a completely different truck.

but again, I can’t be too sure that was what actually cured the HGLR ping.

And no, swapping pulleys is a waste of time.

Go for a full 2.5” exhaust and see how it does. Maybe plan on headers as well. but just a warning, headers is a massive pain in the ass.

One thing to look at is the crank sensor. Remove it and see if there’s anything stuck to it. It’s magnetic and mine had some crap on it. It seemed to do better after getting all that stuff off so I just went ahead and replaced it. I “think” that helped but I can’t be sure.

 

I probably should have replaced the knock sensors when I was installing the supercharger but I just couldn’t bite the bullet and spend 400 bucks on 2 freaking sensors. How hard is the crank sensor to replace? Yeah I’ve heard the headers are a pain in the ass with the crossover pipe.

 

So here’s the deal. The knock sensors seem to be a problem from some more than others. Most turbo guys seem to have issues as well. It’s known across other Toyota communities that Toyota knock sensors are fragile for some reason.

I knew this and spent the dealer price anyway even though I know there’s a chance I’ll have to go back in.

There’s two different OEM knock sensors Toyota used. DENSO and Matsusomethingoranother. I had the sensors stamped with the “M”.

Maybe The Desnos are just better and the “M” ones have issues? Maybe and maybe not. If these fail or start to give me the same symptoms I’m going with the SU1075 GM knock sensor swap.

Others just went right for the GM swap after a fail especially the turbo guys.

@1997tacomav6 bought “Densos” off eBay for like $30 I think. So that’s an option. While he didn’t have any issues I think there’s an extremely high probability of getting counterfeit parts off the internet, especially with such a difference in price. I don’t buy shit online. Because FUCK eBay. But that’s another story.

But then again, maybe they are genuine Denso. Who knows. Just because something is counterfeit doesn’t mean they won’t work.

Anyway, These trucks are picky as fuck and no one really seems to know enough about them when it comes to these issues. It’s honestly super frustrating.

 

The best thing I did to help minimize ping was to adjust my shifting point. I used to shift around 2500-3000 RPM and then as soon as I'd get on the throttle, it would ping pretty bad if I was under load or boosting over ~3psi.

Started timing my shifts at 3300+ RPMs and it rarely happens now. I've learned that I've got to be at 2500 RPM or higher when mashing the throttle to avoid ping. So if I shift at 3300 or higher it puts me right in that sweet spot.

TLDR - avoid high gear, low RPM lol

I'm sure the 7th helps too because it should start spraying around that range

 

Double cab so auto trans. Without getting into it we don’t have that luxury. You’d have to drive a auto with supercharger to know what I’m talking about. The Auto trans lives in the lower RPMs and the only way to get the RPMs up is to boost up there.

 

1) if your MAF is dirty
2) if you MAF is defective
3) if you have over 100k on your injectors, the injector filters are probably dirty limiting flow and need serviced,
4) fuel filter needs changed every 30-50k
5) need 91-92 octane
6) dirty air filter
7) fuel pump if it has over 100k is probably not putting out its max pressure under load from wear.
8) make sure your intake is not full of carbon

If your installing a supercharger and any one of these is not at 100 percent you will get ping.
Do all these and you will have a much smaller chance of ping