Shop Time w/T.W. Friends

Found out why our auger drive motor overheated to the point of dying today. Also the root cause of the two end bearings to let go.
https://youtube.com/shorts/iENpnULGEoU?feature=share

 

Bearings? Over rated
Did that spot actually have a bearing though or a bushing? Looks like a spot where oilite would work good.

 

It has a two piece wood bushing that I did replace once discovered.

 

Looks brand new!

 

I remember my HS shop teacher telling us about Iron Wood and so hard that it was used for bushing/bearing on ships props.

 

When you say the motor overheated and died did it trip the thermal overloads or burn up and need to be replaced?

If it burned up check the nameplate amp draw of the motor and see if the thermals in the motor starter are sized correctly. Often they are way off. Properly sized thermals save you work and money in the long run.

Wood bushings?? Is that a common thing in sawmills?

 

One where you might have to bite down on your tounge hanging out, with extreme concentration to get it started.
I know pop fits

 

Probably no shortage of anyway hehehe

 

Ittza president!!!

A govenor. ? I am not 100% sure.

 

Meh shoulda just throwed some spray lithium grease on it and got another 10K miles out of it

We do that sometimes to limp something along till we get enough downtime to replace it rather then cut into operations. Recently we had a bearing failure that wound up eating the roller shaft. Sumbitch was thumping like no other before the lithium! We went up every 2 hours and sprayed it down with lithium and I be dammed if it wasn't pretty much quiet. It was missing 1/8" of the roller shaft by the time it got replaced, but it got through several sorts without taking it from operations and turning into a downtime report...

 

It appears to be a common thing in auger drives. It tripped on thermal multiple times and we were 40 minutes from end of shift. Supervisor told me to just keep resetting it so that's what I did. I temped the motor with an IR gun, the outer housing was 165 F. At the end it wouldn't stay running for more than 45 seconds, and the wires were brown and crispy when I took it out. Better safe than sorry, spend a half hour changing a motor between shifts, than lose thousands doing it during shift.

As for the thermal overloads, I've been instructed explicitly by the plant manager to run with what's there, as I don't have a degree or training for electrical.

 

I took a guess, I was wrong.

 

Exactly this. Done this many times. Both the end bearings are re-packed with grease to get us by until we have time. We've got a lot of more important things to deal with, and since those are still spinning we're running it.

 

Some overloads (atleast the Allen-Bradley we use) have a knob you can increase it to a point, not that I condone or have done that...

 

It is a Sisson automatic choke control, commonly found on Chrysler cars from the 30s-50s.

The bimetallic spring closed the choke about 1/2 way when cold, when the starter was engaged the solenoid closed the choke the rest of the way. Once the starter was released the solenoid dropped out putting the bimetallic spring back in control to gradually open the choke as it heated up.

This came on a Wisconsin twin cylinder engine from 1964.

IPNPULZ is right: "a critical part that if that does not work that motor won't run...." If it sticks open the damn thing won't start, if it stick shut the damn thing won't keep running.

Installed photo, right under the flying saucer muffler, the link runs down to the choke, the solenoid wire went to the terminal on the top front of the unit above the arm pivot.

 

You figured it from; bang...squish, squish,squish, bang?
I'm still wondering. I've seen something that looked similar on old Chevy manifolds and something a bit different on some exhaust manifold. Heat risers.

 

"Bearing", used in its loosest possible sense!

 

Bimetalic/climatic same difference gosh darn it

 

You were on the right track -- most folks here might not know what a heat riser was much less fussed with them.
I wired many open to stop them from rattling after the spring broke.

 

Well you did re teach me something too, because I had forgotten about the two different metals, bimetal