Long Travel BS Thread

I wonder if going for the jd slide rack/pump setup was a mistake for me as well then. I haven't installed it yet, just sitting in a box.

How long before your rack started leaking? Mine is basically brand new

 

I might have 5k on my brand new OEM rack.

 

Ahh, I see. Only way I could see this happening is create bracket that uses this bolt to stay in place, and then secure a boot to the bracket. But that would be a major pain to make.

 

Thats where my brain is going too. I just cant think of an idea that wont interfere with the clevis.

 

Damn okay, so it's even newer than mine.

Just spewing some ideas here, What about modifying the end of the clevis to accept a boot of some sort? Or putting some sort of boot around the slide rack and rack all together? Maybe I will use my old rack to try and mock something up before modifying my new one on the truck.

 

Yeah, Im going to take my old rack and Mimic the modifications done on the current one to see if I can come up with something. Ideally all of us guys with the rack can share ideas and come up with a solution that will work.

 

Ah didn’t hear that you had to modify the rack for a slider. Here is the same concept on a first gen, you can see you’d have no issues on the rack side to add a boot.



What about machining the clevis to fit in an unmodified rack?

 

The clevis would need an entire re design.

 

Sounds like whoever set it up didnt do something right. My dads jku does 90 on the freeway just fine. Is it different than normal steering? Absolutely, theres a learning curve to driving it. You have to get the right geometry and fluid flow and itll drive pretty well.

Right now im still messing with both, im about 2.75 turns lock to lock, and with the fucked up ackerman angles, it makes it pretty twitchy in the first couple degrees on turning. Im also going to be changing the ram location soon, i will be cutting out the subframe and making a new center section with new ram mounts and diff mounts. Last ive been having issues with steering wheel feel, this could be part of a geometry issue, or it could be a flow issue, but ive been chasing my tail with this one the last few months. I need to drop my steering valve and pump off at a hydraulic shop to get tested. But i also drive my truck currently around town, up to 60mph, and i try and stay off the highway.

Offroad is really where this setup shines. Even at 40-50mph on trails it does well. You can barely feel the bumpsteer, and slow crawling is much more enjoyable. Im no longer fighting the steering wheel to turn, or having it ripped out of my hands when i hit a rock i didnt see.

 

Absolutely not an option for a truck I street drive. I like my mechanical link. If it were that great that's all you would see on trophy trucks and everything else. The ones I've drove were 100% done right. I just personally didn't like anything about them street driving. My fiance and I do a lot of solo adventures between hunting and wheeling. I will not put myself in a situation where if a hose blows we are screwed.

 

What boot do you have over the TRE?

edit: nevermind, found them on kartek

 

Just heim booties from kartek. Then I took my needle greaser and slid it in to put some grease in them. Jesse recommended this when I told him about what I drive in.

 

Yes its not the best setup for trophy trucks or other go fast trucks, because they design thier veichles to do different stuff than i do. When you can design a suspension completely around something you will find out what works best for it. They were able to make enough room for other designs and dont have to use full hydro. Full hydro also limits your racing classes.

Mostly i just wanted to come in here and say that a properly set up full hydro is possible and can drive just fine on the street. Most people drive and get impressions off veichles that arent set up properly.

Your opinions are very strong and your kinda an asshole for not having an open mind about shit. Sometimes if you take a step back and have an actual conversation with someone, you will learn something you mightve not known. Everything you write on this form will be read for atleast the next couple years, saying that full hydro is not streetable is misinformation. Saying that the hydro you drove was %100 done right, without giving specs or actual feedback of why it drove bad, is misleading. If you drove a full buggy, theres probably a reason it drove that way.

 

It seems like they want the clevis to be captured by the slider bracket on both sides - I'm sure that's best practice in the desert, but if you're getting debris in the rack it would be good to probably make another mount that is compatible with the rack to keep the option of running a boot.

Looking at it - I'm sure they want the connection between the slider and the ram to be good due to the angle of the connection between the two with the bracket they made. If it doesn't get too close to the coilover I don't know if the bracket could be flipped outward to keep the premise of the bracket and allow the clevis to slide into the stock casing for the rack.

 

If the entire tie rod assembly was 1/2" shorter and there was a 1/2" welded on spacer behind the clevis the same diameter as the steering rack would you have enough room for a boot over the end with the inner sort of floating with a ring and a bracket to attach to the bolt shown a ways up?

 

Negative. The only way Im seeing this happening is a complete re design of the clevis.

 

All this talk about bumpsteer....have you driven a truck with a lot of bumpsteer to know the difference? It takes ALOT to really feel it at the wheel...my friends tundra that we race when it still had a arms we were trying to make some different steering setups some made it look like it was doing that model wave with the tires...couldn't feel it...basically bumpsteer just wears stuff out quicker more than anything. Being overly sensitive about it or paranoid that your truck has a little is plain dumb. Every single truck has bumpsteer...yes even trophy trucks. Sure you want to minimize it to reduce wear on components but in the grand scheme of actual driving it takes ALOT OF IT to make a noticeable difference in handling and im talking about actual door slamming 1450 racing.

That said stock geometry there's bumpsteer...long travel trucks reduce the overall bumpsteer because the arm is longer. Tundra rack conversions the rack is machined to factory tacoma width which is one of the biggest determining geometry factors affecting bumpsteer.

And if your making your own spindles or steering knuckle, DM me and I will gladly explain an easy way to figure out optimal placement to minimize bumpsteer.

 

I've seen more than one JD Fab fan boy / guy on various forums saying the same thing about Tundra racks not being a viable option due to bump steer.

 

. The inner tie rod tie is adjustable with spacers. Here is mine in the full forward position.

 

The smarter ones ignore those comments. The tundra rack is a very viable and excellent option if that is your desired route. The reason I went with the JD setup is I like the fact that a Vatozone rack would be a quick replacement if things go wrong. The tundra option does not allow for an off the shelf rack to replace in a field repair if needed. Right or wrong that was my though process.