Long Travel BS Thread

When this thread feels like you should have bought a solid axle (intentional troll lol)

 

Everybody keeps telling me to. I refuse. I love frustration way too much!

 

Crapload is relative to the tools you have available and ability to use them lol

 

So since it's kinda sorta close to on topic.. Do the front diff mounts really need to be as beef as they are? Curious cause toyota tends to make them pretty beef on nearly every application that may see hard driving (trucks, suvs, sportscars) but they also have quite a few car cars and lexus sports cars with awd with wayyy more power than these tacos that they don't go nutty on with similar mounts. Also the diff mounts are built up even stronger than nearly every other drivetrain mounting point?? Curious why i can't remake em higher clearance and lighter with some chromo plate and some fluting/gusseting

 

Maybe just cheaper for a cast piece to have the strength and be big.

Remember these frames and mounts were designed over 16 years ago and probably closer to 20.

 

Has anyone ever tried to redo the mounts? Can’t say I’ve seen anyone try, but feel it could somewhat easily be done… I’m not sure how much movement the stock mounts allow, but with the way the fronts are designed I can’t imagine it’s a lot, so I imagine a fabbed mount with similar movements would work fine…

 

This guy put an 8.0 front diff from a 2nd gen taco / 4th gen t4r into a 3rd gen t4r (upgrade from 7.5 diff) so he must have. I think if you redid the x member out of square tube it would probably be the easiest mounting method.

https://www.motortrend.com/features/1606-this-1996-toyota-4runner-proves-ifs-doesnt-have-to-be-weak/

 

It would be awesome to see someone redo the mounts in a way that it drops the diff down enough that it doesn’t create clearance issues but helps CV angles with long travel. It seems as though many of the kits out there are limited by the CV’s

 

Probably because for long travel applications no one wants low hanging parts and you want as much clearance as possible at bump - for non-go fast rigs the benefit is understandable though.

 

It honestly wouldn’t have to be much at all to make a substantial difference. I do believe there is room to make it happen.

 

I mean there's a diff drop that you could use - any more than that and bump clearance is going to be affected.

 

Yeah, I won’t ever rock the pucks. The packaging on our front ends is a bugger to work with unfortunately.

 

That and only dropping the front is only giving you half what you lower the mounts, my front diff is the lowest hanging part on the front of my truck.

 

Better off using actual cv joints like 930's or 934s....the cv axle will always be the limiting factor

 

That's why i was curious. They seem so overdone and really simple to make lighter/smaller but i've never seen it done

 

Yeah, I’m going to 934’s myself. But as you've stated before options are nice!

 

934 is overkill as is...but lot of usable misalignment...can achieve the same thing with a 930. 934s run on a buddies 10 car with alot more power than these silly trucks lol. 930 is a bit cheaper and clears the crossmember easier..you don't have to chop and clearance it like you do with the 934

 

well my buddy just sent me these since I don’t get home till Monday, now I’m all antsy to get home and install them!

 

The 930 flanges don’t really work with the OE stub shaft as the bolt circle isn’t big enough and the frame clearance for the 934 is very, very minimal.

Also depending on the kit the 934 allows for the additional angle needed while keeping things in a very safe operating range.

But yes there is no question they are overkill.

 

Rcv makes a nice stub adapter for the diff all one piece machined...

Ahhh makes sense why you guys use the 934, didn't think about the bolt pattern diameter...the 930 clears with maybe a 1/4" for the crossmember.

And I ended up counterboring the inner stars a little bit to get a lil more plunge from the stub shaft and still run a circlip on the end.

I'd have to dig through some old receipts but I could find the part number for the stub adapter rcv makes...they weren't very expensive